CroMAGnet
Flashlight Enthusiast
Just wanted to post some comments to enlist the CPF collective in consultation regarding the Aleph FluPIC Light Engine.
Goldserve and I have been working on the Aleph FluPIC for a while and through trial and error have gotten a nice LE but not up to the old style LE's yet. Kevin is working on another UX1K for me that may address the issues.
I have been using my working model for a while as an EDC Aleph2 with CR2 body. I really love it. My UI is custom though. I don't like all the modes so he makes it with just one mode.
HIGH/ Adjustable LOW / STROBE / OFF / Set LOW / Set STROBE
This setup just Rawks! I would like the next one to reverse the HIGH with the LOW.
Once again this is an awesome LE in it's usable versatility. I love it. I keep the low mod on it lowest setting and use it a lot that way unless I need to tailstand and light up a room like candle mode. Then I dial in the exact brightess needed in the LOW level and get the long runtime. It's fantastic.
The issues so far:
When in the 4th setting OFF and you accidentally tap the bottom of the tail of the flashlight on a table it will turn on.
Kevin (Goldserve) is pretty confident there isn't any wrong with the module or software. He's also trying to come up with an idea to somehow increase the spring tension so vibrations won't move things. He suggested I try small battery magnets?
I tried the magnet but it wouldn't work at all that way. Seems like I should try the on the negative end of the battery. I still have to give that a try.
[GS]"When you are in the 4th setting, everything is off. When you tap it on the table, it comes back on. That is a sign that when you've tapped it, it looses power and comes back on into the first setting. Check battery spring is nice and hard, pushes the battery against the flupic contact really well."
Very logical. That is the issue. It can be handled by unscrewing the tailcap a bit. A lot more if you have a two stage tail. :( Which by the way Kevin discourages when using a FluPIC. I will still do some runtime testing when I get a chance.
Also... check this out. I did an apples to apples LUX reading test. I took an Aleph1 with a fully charged R123 measuring 4.14 off the charger. The I took readings by just swapping out LE's
TWOK NG1000 I measured 1.09 Amp draw
TWOH FluPIC I measured about 9.6amp draw wavering +/- .2 amps
On the LUX meter I measured
3600 LUX for the NG1000 and solid as a rock regulation
2400 LUX for the TWOH FluPIC and slowly dropping
Kevin thinks that the TWOH is the new style emitter so the focus is slightly off. How much that translates into lost lumens is unknown and he would like to know as well. More of the light goes into the sidespill so unless you had an integrating sphere to capture all the light...it would be difficult.
This ones a puzzle folks! Because that's a big difference!
Goldserve and I have been working on the Aleph FluPIC for a while and through trial and error have gotten a nice LE but not up to the old style LE's yet. Kevin is working on another UX1K for me that may address the issues.
I have been using my working model for a while as an EDC Aleph2 with CR2 body. I really love it. My UI is custom though. I don't like all the modes so he makes it with just one mode.
HIGH/ Adjustable LOW / STROBE / OFF / Set LOW / Set STROBE
This setup just Rawks! I would like the next one to reverse the HIGH with the LOW.
Once again this is an awesome LE in it's usable versatility. I love it. I keep the low mod on it lowest setting and use it a lot that way unless I need to tailstand and light up a room like candle mode. Then I dial in the exact brightess needed in the LOW level and get the long runtime. It's fantastic.
The issues so far:
When in the 4th setting OFF and you accidentally tap the bottom of the tail of the flashlight on a table it will turn on.
Kevin (Goldserve) is pretty confident there isn't any wrong with the module or software. He's also trying to come up with an idea to somehow increase the spring tension so vibrations won't move things. He suggested I try small battery magnets?
I tried the magnet but it wouldn't work at all that way. Seems like I should try the on the negative end of the battery. I still have to give that a try.
[GS]"When you are in the 4th setting, everything is off. When you tap it on the table, it comes back on. That is a sign that when you've tapped it, it looses power and comes back on into the first setting. Check battery spring is nice and hard, pushes the battery against the flupic contact really well."
Very logical. That is the issue. It can be handled by unscrewing the tailcap a bit. A lot more if you have a two stage tail. :( Which by the way Kevin discourages when using a FluPIC. I will still do some runtime testing when I get a chance.
Also... check this out. I did an apples to apples LUX reading test. I took an Aleph1 with a fully charged R123 measuring 4.14 off the charger. The I took readings by just swapping out LE's
TWOK NG1000 I measured 1.09 Amp draw
TWOH FluPIC I measured about 9.6amp draw wavering +/- .2 amps
On the LUX meter I measured
3600 LUX for the NG1000 and solid as a rock regulation
2400 LUX for the TWOH FluPIC and slowly dropping
Kevin thinks that the TWOH is the new style emitter so the focus is slightly off. How much that translates into lost lumens is unknown and he would like to know as well. More of the light goes into the sidespill so unless you had an integrating sphere to capture all the light...it would be difficult.
This ones a puzzle folks! Because that's a big difference!
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