Help with my first ROP build!

sk7283

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Nov 22, 2011
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Trying to finish up this build for Christmas for my brother. I have read some good threads but I have technical problem.

I am using a 2d body with with a camless reflector and 2 AW 18650 flat top batteries with a magnet on one of the cells to make proper contact.

When i screw in the low bulb things work fine...no issues. When i put the Hi bulb in is when there is a problem. The light does not come on. The bulb is good. I installed in 2c host with 18500 and the bulb kind of flickers for a second and then turns on. I move it back to the 2dMS body and nothing. Batteries are charged...everything is connected as i have no issues with the low bulb.

Switch is stock....someone please help this newbie....the tail spring is stock mag turned backwards and pinched closed.

Steven
 
The 2D has less parasitic resistance than the 2C. So in the 2C the parasitic resistance lowers the current at the start enough that the over-current protection of the 18650s does not trip.
 
Is there a fix...i did get the light to come on but only once out of 20 tries
 
Is there a fix...i did get the light to come on but only once out of 20 tries

You want a smidge more resistance, but I'm not quite sure how to manage it. You might try putting a bit of goop on the contacts (Spring, spring cup) to see if that helps enough.
 
I am heading to Lowe's (hardware)...what kind of goop should I be looking for.
 
Maximum current that mentioned protected batteries can powers up with first click is about 3.6 Amps which is WA1111
ROP 3854 HO needs more current. In this case use either parallel battery set up or IMRs.
 
Thanks for the help everyone...I went with the protected cells being a newbie (1. Not knowing any better option 2. I wanted the safe choice).

Not sure if this is a recommended solution but after the resistance discussion I went home and added a magnet to the second cell. I also placed 2 on the bottom of the tail spring...not sure if those are helping or not. After a little wiggle in the

switch the light now comes on!
 
Its never good to add useless resistance to an electric circuit. 😀 It will create heat which results in less efficiency. But for you its the cheapest solution without having more costs.
 
I really apreciate the help i am receiving. I will order some IMR cells after the holiday. I hope this thread helps out another newbie in the future.

Will the wf-139 shut off after acheiving 4.2 volts on IMR cells or does that only take place on protected cells.
 
it appears that the AW18650 in 3100mAh capacity can run past 5A draw without tripping the protection circuit.
yea, unfortunatly peak draw on turn on is higher than 5A with rop ho.


op, use 2 26650, you wont have any problems starting it up. however running rop ho for longer than 10 min cont. there is a big chance of your positive contact on the bulb melting, due to exccesive heat from overdriving it (it was designed for 6v, not 8 or so). it happened to few members here before.
my advice stick to rop lo, it is more practical, and still bright
 
Trying to finish up this build for Christmas for my brother. I have read some good threads but I have technical problem.

I am using a 2d body with with a camless reflector and 2 AW 18650 flat top batteries with a magnet on one of the cells to make proper contact.

When i screw in the low bulb things work fine...no issues. When i put the Hi bulb in is when there is a problem. The light does not come on. The bulb is good. I installed in 2c host with 18500 and the bulb kind of flickers for a second and then turns on. I move it back to the 2dMS body and nothing. Batteries are charged...everything is connected as i have no issues with the low bulb.

Switch is stock....someone please help this newbie....the tail spring is stock mag turned backwards and pinched closed.

Steven
Which AW flattop did you buy, 2,600, 2,900 or the new 3,100? Even the 2,600 according to AW's sales thread has a max. discharge rate of 5.2 amps. The 3854-H according to Lux's Destructive-Incan thread draws 4.7 amps at about 8 volts for the pair of AW's fresh off the charger. That should be enough. Except the internal resistance of the bulb is much lower when it's cold as you first turn it on. The initial current drain is enough to trip the protection circuit.

Did anyone else mention sometimes you have to click the on switch multiple times like you were double clicking a mouse? What happens is on the second or third click, the bulb filament is still glowing and may have high enough resistance to pass the protection circuit without adding additional resistance. Just so your Christmas present is functional.:santa:

IMR's are a good idea. Especially if you get batteries without a protection circuit. 18650 IMR's are only 1,600 mAh capacity. If you go with 26650's you'll get a much better runtime. Schedule 80 1" PVC has the same ID as the OD of the battery. You have to cut it down the side lengthwise to use as a spacer in a Mag-D. Good luck.
 
I have the AW 2600. The wiggle/double click of the switch is what i am doing now with the added magnets. Not sure if i tried that before the addition of the magnets. Will have to try when i get home
 
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