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High CRI Nichias for D.I.Y.

marschw

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Apr 5, 2008
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183
Are the 083's discussed in this thread the neutral white (NS6W083A) or warm white (NS6L083A) ones?
 

Edwood

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Aug 27, 2006
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994
Location
SoCal
They are definitely on the warmer side. But not nearly as yellow as incandescents and warm CFL lights.

-Ed
 

McGizmo

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May 1, 2002
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Maui
Are the 083's discussed in this thread the neutral white (NS6W083A) or warm white (NS6L083A) ones?

If you read post #14 and then look at the info provided in post#15, you can see that these LED's are the NS6L083A. I opted for the highest color temp bin I could get within the parts range. It would seem that the phosphor used for these high CRI LED's precludes us from getting to the higher color temp which my old yellow eyes would prefer. :eek:
 

X_Marine

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Jan 15, 2007
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711
Location
Houston, Tx
Thanks Chip.
After we have time to test them out, we will prolly all want to come back and grab 10.. lol

Thanks
X..
 

X_Marine

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Jan 15, 2007
Messages
711
Location
Houston, Tx
Hey guys,

I got them split up and repackaged, they will go out tomorrow. Thanks again for going in on these with me.

~Chip
Mine just rolled in!!.
Thanks again Chip, packed very nicely and in perfect condition. :thumbsup:

Thanks
X/BillyD..
 

mahoney

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Joined
Jan 7, 2002
Messages
603
So far as optics go, the McR 19 is OK, although my experiments did not yield quite as nice results as Starfiretoo's, there were a couple faint dark rings in the spill. The McFlood is also useable, although with some "color artifacts" in the beam. The best results I've gotten so far is with acrylic 1/2 spheres.
 

starfiretoo

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Oct 13, 2006
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1,265
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KAUAI
Hope you're not using the 19XR (Cree) as that gave poor results as well as the 19 Flood. Been hoping to find a good LED for the Flood but haven't found one yet.

Where have you been getting the half spheres from?

So far as optics go, the McR 19 is OK, although my experiments did not yield quite as nice results as Starfiretoo's, there were a couple faint dark rings in the spill. The McFlood is also useable, although with some "color artifacts" in the beam. The best results I've gotten so far is with acrylic 1/2 spheres.
 

McGizmo

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May 1, 2002
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......
Where have you been getting the half spheres from?

If it's any help, I get the half spheres (cabochons) from TapPlastics. Not that their 1/2" cabochons are not flat (plano) on the one side. Tap also has acrylic full and half round acrylic bar stock. I am sure other plastics houses have these items as well.
 

mahoney

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Joined
Jan 7, 2002
Messages
603
I got the 1/2 spheres from my local plastics distributor/fabricator. (Solter Plastics for anyone in Los Angeles, CA) The sales clerk went into the back and there were "rummaging noises" and he eventually returned with the size and quantity I wanted. Pre-scratched even so I won't feel guilty about the pocket wear the front of the lense will get (the front of the ball protrudes from the bezel a bit) For 75 cents each I was not expecting superb optical quality anyway and after a little polishing, the remaining scratches don't bother me. I spaced the star from the flat side of 1/2 sphere with a couple o-rings and squished them together until the LED almost touched the surface. The result is a very clean even field of light.
 

McGizmo

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May 1, 2002
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Hi guys,
I figured this was the most appropriate thread to provide some more data points although I could also have posted in the hard hat thread.

Anyway, I have been meaning to string 6 of these with a Xitanium in a less massive aluminum fixture and test thermal conditions as well as a larger piece (3/4" half round) of acrylic bar as a optic.

The string of Nichias on a 6" long fixture:

6x083-strip.jpg


A cross section view showing the 3/4" (inside) x 1/16" thick "U" channel mounted to an angle bracket of 1/8" thick x 2" leg:

FixtureXsection.jpg


After 20 minutes on in ambient temp of 27C, the aluminum was all within 1 deg C and max was 43C. This is certainly warm to the touch but not particularly dangerous, IMHO. I think a 2" square box section of 1/8" wall thickness with U channel mounted to it would make for a better assembly and ease of mounting as well as hiding the driver. For under counter with low profile, the U channel could be mounted to a wider plate of Al.

I took some beam shots against the garage door both with and without the half bar optic:

FixtureBeamComparison.jpg


At a reasonable height above a desk, the fixture would do a nice job of illumination I think. You can see that the U channel does block the spill beam with no optic in the top image. If no optic were used, having the sides of the U channel reflective would help if you still wanted to block the view of the LED's from the sides.

I didn't take a pic but I did play with pulling the optic bar away from the LED's and you definitely get a narrower (horizontal) and brighter beam. Although these beams are generated by a string of LED's, you would get a similar shaped beam from a single LED. If the acrylic were radiused or tapered down at each end, you could shape the beam into a more eliptical pattern and reduce the horizontal spread.
 

starfiretoo

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Oct 13, 2006
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:thanks: Living in Hawaii means you have to depend on mail order :thumbsup:
If it's any help, I get the half spheres (cabochons) from TapPlastics. Not that their 1/2" cabochons are not flat (plano) on the one side. Tap also has acrylic full and half round acrylic bar stock. I am sure other plastics houses have these items as well.
 

Enzo Morocioli

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Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
626
Location
Cambria, CA
Just want to put it out there that I'm looking to get one or two of these if I can.. If anyone wants to jump on the boat with me and get 10 to divvy up, lets get in contact.. I've put out WTB's on the cpf and cpfmp b/s/t.. Thanks guys..:tinfoil:
 
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