lightinsky
Enlightened
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2006
- Messages
- 432
Has anyone seen the husky 1 Watt 2C cell led and 3 Watt 2D cell at Home Depot. They are priced right for 14.99 for 2c and 19.99 for 2D.
Home Depot's Husky 1 Watt and 3 Watt Led lights
- Thread starter lightinsky
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My answer is that I have not tried those.
However, I am wondering if anyone reading this has tried the 3 watt C or D lights available at Harbor Freight Tools. (Also I recently noticed the River Rock 1 watt C light available as a close out at Target.)
However, I am wondering if anyone reading this has tried the 3 watt C or D lights available at Harbor Freight Tools. (Also I recently noticed the River Rock 1 watt C light available as a close out at Target.)
parnass
Flashlight Enthusiast
I saw the Husky lights in the local Home Depot recently, but haven't tried them.
I went and got a 2C version this morning.
At first I thought it was broken as the switch went ON - ON - ON - OFF.
After very close inspection in a dark room I found that it really is: LOW - MED - HIGH with little difference between the levels.
I disassembled it (except for the pill) and it was VERY easy to do.
Almost everything screws except the pill (Press fit and I didn't want to mess it up) and the switch board ("C" style clamp that you squeze to remove).
The interior parts are either metal (I HOPE) or metal colored plastic. VERY light and rough. Parts look CAST with very little finishing.
SPRINGS everywhere for electrical connections.
Low - Med - High are created by using surface mount resistors in line. Low is 1.5 Ohm, Med is 1 Ohm.
I replaced the 1 Ohm with a 10 Ohm reqular (1/4 watt?) resistor and now have Med - LOW - High. The LOW is now useful but could be a bit lower.
Current draw at the batteries is now (with the 10 ohm resistor)
Med -- .55 Amp (1.5 ohm)
Low -- .20 Amp (10 ohm)
High -- .60 Amp (No resistance)
As you can see there isn't much difference between the med and high.
I will probably go back and add a 50 ohm resistor in place of the 1.5 ohm
(note: 50 ohm in line with the tail cap runs 5mA at the battery and still decient output for a LOW powered low)
Pros:
Cheap
Small spot with good spill
Easy to mod.
Good 2C format with anti-roll bezel and tailcap.
Cons:
Cheap and looks like it
wwglen
ps: The LED dome looks slightly smudged/frostted or something.
At first I thought it was broken as the switch went ON - ON - ON - OFF.
After very close inspection in a dark room I found that it really is: LOW - MED - HIGH with little difference between the levels.
I disassembled it (except for the pill) and it was VERY easy to do.
Almost everything screws except the pill (Press fit and I didn't want to mess it up) and the switch board ("C" style clamp that you squeze to remove).
The interior parts are either metal (I HOPE) or metal colored plastic. VERY light and rough. Parts look CAST with very little finishing.
SPRINGS everywhere for electrical connections.
Low - Med - High are created by using surface mount resistors in line. Low is 1.5 Ohm, Med is 1 Ohm.
I replaced the 1 Ohm with a 10 Ohm reqular (1/4 watt?) resistor and now have Med - LOW - High. The LOW is now useful but could be a bit lower.
Current draw at the batteries is now (with the 10 ohm resistor)
Med -- .55 Amp (1.5 ohm)
Low -- .20 Amp (10 ohm)
High -- .60 Amp (No resistance)
As you can see there isn't much difference between the med and high.
I will probably go back and add a 50 ohm resistor in place of the 1.5 ohm
(note: 50 ohm in line with the tail cap runs 5mA at the battery and still decient output for a LOW powered low)
Pros:
Cheap
Small spot with good spill
Easy to mod.
Good 2C format with anti-roll bezel and tailcap.
Cons:
Cheap and looks like it
wwglen
ps: The LED dome looks slightly smudged/frostted or something.
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OK so I just redid the 1 Ohm resistor with a 51 Ohm resistor.
I was wrong above it is 50 mA not 5 mA on low now.
This is about PERFECT for my needs.
Compaired to my Jetbeam CL-E the total output on HIGH is SLIGHTLY brighter than the Jetbeam on Medium.
Medium is about the same as the Jetbeam on LOW.
and LOW is good for moving around a room at night without waking the kids or blinding yourself.
wwglen
I was wrong above it is 50 mA not 5 mA on low now.
This is about PERFECT for my needs.
Compaired to my Jetbeam CL-E the total output on HIGH is SLIGHTLY brighter than the Jetbeam on Medium.
Medium is about the same as the Jetbeam on LOW.
and LOW is good for moving around a room at night without waking the kids or blinding yourself.
wwglen
parnass
Flashlight Enthusiast
wwglen said:
Thanks for the report.
Nebula
Enlightened
I picked up the C and D last week. The D is better built, but that is not saying much. It works well enough though, and as is noted above, there is not much difference between low and medium. The difference between medium and high is more apparent.
The C is marketed as a single level light, however the two that I have purchased had the same three levels that are found in the D. I like having three level, and the price is right. Both lights appear to be mod candidates if done on the cheap. The black coating may be merely painted on, and the heads are made of a rather thin aluminum. The bodies are made of a much thicker aluminum.
The C is marketed as a single level light, however the two that I have purchased had the same three levels that are found in the D. I like having three level, and the price is right. Both lights appear to be mod candidates if done on the cheap. The black coating may be merely painted on, and the heads are made of a rather thin aluminum. The bodies are made of a much thicker aluminum.
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trailstoride
Newly Enlightened
I picked up the D last week. The flashlight is heavy and and as previously noted, uses springs everywhere. It should make a good host for a Seoul SSC P4 star replacement. I measured just over 1 Amp at the LED with fresh alkaline D batteries (on high, low was ~600 ma to the LED). It uses a small smooth reflector and plastic lense.
Mine lost the Luxeon lottery, and is not even as bright on high as my SSC P4 modded Elly!!
I think with a SSC P4 and a resistor change to make low a long running low (10 ohms gives 170ma to the LED, 190ma from the batteries) it will be a far more useful light.
Naughty
Mine lost the Luxeon lottery, and is not even as bright on high as my SSC P4 modded Elly!!
I think with a SSC P4 and a resistor change to make low a long running low (10 ohms gives 170ma to the LED, 190ma from the batteries) it will be a far more useful light.
Naughty
kramer5150
Flashaholic
Heres mine
LED array on the Far-right
Consider it at the bottom of the food-chain. The other Chinese 3-AAA torch (second from the left) uses that same plastic concentric AAA carrier. That one developed an intermittency problem after a few months. I am not sure what the cause is, but I think its a poor design 3-AAA carrier. IMHO, It also has too many springs inside. One at the + and one at the - terminal. I have to re-stretch them periodically. FWIW, the black Husky pictured above is also developing the same intermittent problem. I can shake/tap on the light and get it to go away.
No DC-DC regulation too. So the first ~15 minutes on fresh alkalines are BLAZING. The torch gets warm to the touch during those first ~15 minutes, and its output is brighter with fresh cells. NiMH cells or ones with more stable output would be better.
I can't really recommend this torch to anyone. You are better off spending a little more and getting a LOT more in return.
LED array on the Far-right
Consider it at the bottom of the food-chain. The other Chinese 3-AAA torch (second from the left) uses that same plastic concentric AAA carrier. That one developed an intermittency problem after a few months. I am not sure what the cause is, but I think its a poor design 3-AAA carrier. IMHO, It also has too many springs inside. One at the + and one at the - terminal. I have to re-stretch them periodically. FWIW, the black Husky pictured above is also developing the same intermittent problem. I can shake/tap on the light and get it to go away.
No DC-DC regulation too. So the first ~15 minutes on fresh alkalines are BLAZING. The torch gets warm to the touch during those first ~15 minutes, and its output is brighter with fresh cells. NiMH cells or ones with more stable output would be better.
I can't really recommend this torch to anyone. You are better off spending a little more and getting a LOT more in return.
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I have the D version of this light and like it. Like others have said, there is not that much of a difference between the low and medium setting, but high is pretty bright. I had one of the C versions and returned it. It was very dim and pretty much worthless. Maybe there was something wrong with it. There seems to be three versions of the C light. I bought one that had some sort of holder in the package. The other two looked similar, but one was bundled with alkalines, and one with heavy duty batteries. I am going to try the newer version the next time I go to Home Depot. I believe the new version comes with heavy duty batteries. It is only $15.00 and I can always return it! 
Mike
Mike
Kramer5150! wazzup HF homie!
I was talking about the 2C 1W Husky Luxon torch (model 792-951 I beleive)...anyone Mod that?
Sorry for the bad pics...my VX6100 is the only cam I got now.
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kramer5150
Flashaholic
Kramer5150! wazzup HF homie!
I was talking about the 2C 1W Husky Luxon torch (model 792-951 I beleive)...anyone Mod that?
Sorry for the bad pics...my VX6100 is the only cam I got now.
Hey dood, I'm pretty much in lurk-mode at HF, and getting into a different hobby over here!!
Oh OK, I got them confused.
Hey dood, I'm pretty much in lurk-mode at HF, and getting into a different hobby over here!!
Oh OK, I got them confused.
hehe..I look forward to your mods. Your HF mods were great!
Turbo DV8
Flashlight Enthusiast
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Sigman
* The Arctic Moderator *
I found a 2D cell with leaking batteries in the bubble pack & they let me have it for $10. Though my LED is nice, bright, & white...the artifacts are certainly present. I think I'll orange peel the reflector or use some Write-Right/beam diffusion film on the lens.
Canuke
Enlightened
Mine wasn't a Lux, it's got a black area around the emitter die instead of silver, mounted on a star with the name "Prolight" on it.
Does anyone know what sort of driver is in it? I found that it would control the current to the emitter fairly well, such that I could swap in a red or amber Lux in there, but it's less than 50% efficient (based on comparing input current/voltage to output).
I ended up swapping in a royal blue Lux in mine.
