Yes, I agree.
wvdavidr, take what he said into consideration. There's a reason why there are more expensive lights out there even though the specs on paper may not seem as great. Build and quality are much better in most cases.
How reliable are these LED lights? Others having troubles?
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wvdavidr, take what he said into consideration. There's a reason why there are more expensive lights out there even though the specs on paper may not seem as great. Build and quality are much better in most cases.
I personally swear by Surefire, Elzetta, HDS, Malkoff, and McGizmo. They are expensive no doubt, but they are also built tough. Another personal reason being I prefer made in the USA. I can't and will never trust Chinese workmanship and their level of QC. I am not saying that all Chinese manufacturers suck at what they are doing, but their consistency is something questionable as had been proven time and time again. It's good to see them make huge progress when it comes to flashlight technology and design, but on the other hand it is real daunting to keep receiving lights that either wouldn't survive for long, or would start exhibiting problems some time down the road. That said, my opinion is that the Chinese make lights for the gadget freaks, whereas the US manufacturers produce lights for simple, reliable, and pure illumination. Give me a choice between technochineselight and reliability, I would rather pick the latter.
Jash
Flashlight Enthusiast
Apart from all the Nitecores I've owned I've not had any failures from lights over $30. Under $30 and it's probably a 50% failure rate. However, it could have a lot to do with my trying to mod them and not knowing what I'm doing.
One of the big reasons why I like the older Surefire incans and now Elzetta/Malkoff, as well as Solarforce, is the modularity.
If one piece goes, it's a lot cheaper to replace that component rather than the whole light. It might cost more to buy the entire flashlight upfront, but on the off-chance something craps out, you aren't out an arm and a leg to fix/replace it, either.
If one piece goes, it's a lot cheaper to replace that component rather than the whole light. It might cost more to buy the entire flashlight upfront, but on the off-chance something craps out, you aren't out an arm and a leg to fix/replace it, either.
Well stated, I share your thoughts on buying well spec'd and built lights.
DoctaDocta
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- May 31, 2014
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- 7
Nitecore TM 26 Switch Trouble; Thrunite TN 12 (2014) Conduction Problems
Hi guys --
I've had my Nitecore TM 26 for about 2 weeks now -- I'm still on the first charging of the batteries. Unfortunately, it's developed a problem with the logic circuits of its switching functions. At times it cannot be turned off to go back into standby mode -- it will require the appropriate switch press (full depression of the switch) to be performed up to 8 times before the light will obey the request. I love it otherwise, so it's off for replacement or repair very soon to either the seller or the manufacturer. Has anyone else had trouble with this area?
As well, I bought two TN 12 (2014)s -- one in the cooler range that they offer, and the other in the warmer portion of the spectrum. The cool white version is fine, though its tailcap must be VERY tightly screwed on to insure contact with the middle section tube. (Note that I have NOT experienced any flickering once the tail is on tightly enough -- it's a good contact, thus far.) And, were this a review, I'd point out that the top two brightness levels are exceptionally close to each other and therefore, a bit of a waste -- it would be much better to have employed an additional low-medium level in say, the 40 lumen range instead of a high that's just below maximum. But I digress....
After a 3 week wait for the device to come back into stock and be shipped, the warmer version arrived non-functioning entirely, and with considerable dust/debris on the surface of the reflector. Some non-invasive experimentation with interchanging parts between the two units revealed that the problem was in the ability of the middle-section tube -- that which is positioned between the head and the tail-cap. It prevented either light from working, though surprisingly, if installed *backwards,* it makes decent contact and either unit will work. The problem here of course, is that this eliminates the utility of the light's clip in any practical set of terms. Something's going on with the manufacturing and the resultant dimensions of the contact points of that middle tube component, it seems.
To be fair, when I emailed them about the issue, Thrunite was quick to correspond toward trying to help me trouble-shoot. For the moment, a resolution is still in the works. Note also, that when I went to the Thrunite site today (6/21/2014), I cannot find warm-emitting version of the light listed at all.
Has anyone else had TN 12 woes? Remember, I also have one that works quite well, albeit with a slightly fussy tube-to-tailcap connection. -- I wouldn't turn away from the model entirely, though I feel that my Fenix PD35 is more reliable. Be well all!
Hi guys --
I've had my Nitecore TM 26 for about 2 weeks now -- I'm still on the first charging of the batteries. Unfortunately, it's developed a problem with the logic circuits of its switching functions. At times it cannot be turned off to go back into standby mode -- it will require the appropriate switch press (full depression of the switch) to be performed up to 8 times before the light will obey the request. I love it otherwise, so it's off for replacement or repair very soon to either the seller or the manufacturer. Has anyone else had trouble with this area?
As well, I bought two TN 12 (2014)s -- one in the cooler range that they offer, and the other in the warmer portion of the spectrum. The cool white version is fine, though its tailcap must be VERY tightly screwed on to insure contact with the middle section tube. (Note that I have NOT experienced any flickering once the tail is on tightly enough -- it's a good contact, thus far.) And, were this a review, I'd point out that the top two brightness levels are exceptionally close to each other and therefore, a bit of a waste -- it would be much better to have employed an additional low-medium level in say, the 40 lumen range instead of a high that's just below maximum. But I digress....
After a 3 week wait for the device to come back into stock and be shipped, the warmer version arrived non-functioning entirely, and with considerable dust/debris on the surface of the reflector. Some non-invasive experimentation with interchanging parts between the two units revealed that the problem was in the ability of the middle-section tube -- that which is positioned between the head and the tail-cap. It prevented either light from working, though surprisingly, if installed *backwards,* it makes decent contact and either unit will work. The problem here of course, is that this eliminates the utility of the light's clip in any practical set of terms. Something's going on with the manufacturing and the resultant dimensions of the contact points of that middle tube component, it seems.
To be fair, when I emailed them about the issue, Thrunite was quick to correspond toward trying to help me trouble-shoot. For the moment, a resolution is still in the works. Note also, that when I went to the Thrunite site today (6/21/2014), I cannot find warm-emitting version of the light listed at all.
Has anyone else had TN 12 woes? Remember, I also have one that works quite well, albeit with a slightly fussy tube-to-tailcap connection. -- I wouldn't turn away from the model entirely, though I feel that my Fenix PD35 is more reliable. Be well all!
Re: Nitecore TM 26 Switch Trouble; Thrunite TN 12 (2014) Conduction Problems
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6WSPKuunCI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRNNUUS-Q3k
I've had my m22 for more than 1 year, and didn't have any issues with it.
You can also buy US made lights as advised above if your budget allows for it.
Sorry to hear about that. It's funny because I've never had any issues with any of my lights (made in US or in China).
You could take a look at the Olight M2x series. There are a lot of "torture tests" vids on the web featuring the Olight :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6WSPKuunCI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRNNUUS-Q3k
I've had my m22 for more than 1 year, and didn't have any issues with it.
You can also buy US made lights as advised above if your budget allows for it.
Sorry to hear about that. It's funny because I've never had any issues with any of my lights (made in US or in China).
Re: Nitecore TM 26 Switch Trouble; Thrunite TN 12 (2014) Conduction Problems
I've only had one light with problems. A Fenix headlamp. It was replaced by the vendor, and the replacement has performed flawlessly. That light, and my other ~40 lights, have never failed. Those lights come from Eagletac, Sunwayman, Jetbeam, Zebralight, Armytek, oLight, and the rest being budget chinese brands.
The concern about failure worries me though. I prefer to stick with lights that I can easily fix, even if that means a totally different driver. That should exclude control ring lights, but the appeal of those is too much to resist. The rest can be repaired, even if it means ordering boards from Oshpark and chips from Digikey.
I've only had one light with problems. A Fenix headlamp. It was replaced by the vendor, and the replacement has performed flawlessly. That light, and my other ~40 lights, have never failed. Those lights come from Eagletac, Sunwayman, Jetbeam, Zebralight, Armytek, oLight, and the rest being budget chinese brands.
The concern about failure worries me though. I prefer to stick with lights that I can easily fix, even if that means a totally different driver. That should exclude control ring lights, but the appeal of those is too much to resist. The rest can be repaired, even if it means ordering boards from Oshpark and chips from Digikey.
greghaddin
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2014
- Messages
- 1
I am using Philips LED lights and it works awesome. I had no problem with it yet.
I have had ANOTHER! A Fenix HL55 headlamp. It worked fine since last winter. It won't work at all now. Not abused, no battery leaking, etc..
I need to remind myself: "No more lights that are worth a bother- just cheap lights that are thrown away when they fail!"
I need to remind myself: "No more lights that are worth a bother- just cheap lights that are thrown away when they fail!"
WarRaven
Flashlight Enthusiast
Was tail cap switch in PD35 checked and ruled out, old post but?
Sorry to hear your luck, you didn't mention cleaning threads, contact points inside both end of light or cell voltage stuff, so are we to assume it's all checked and verified as not the cause?
Only takes a minute break in chain and no joy on any light.
Thanks.
Sorry to hear your luck, you didn't mention cleaning threads, contact points inside both end of light or cell voltage stuff, so are we to assume it's all checked and verified as not the cause?
Only takes a minute break in chain and no joy on any light.
Thanks.
ForrestChump
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2014
- Messages
- 3,097
Clean all threads, oring's and contact points with Alcohol. Lightly re-lube threads & orings. Swap to fresh cells.
Otherwise, warranty it.
Otherwise, warranty it.
The PD35 went back under warranty.
On every light I have complained about: Did I check and clean the threads, spring contacts, contacts on batteries, and check the batteries... of course.
This does raise my original point... how reliable are these lights?
ForrestChump
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2014
- Messages
- 3,097
Fenix probably has the best rep for of reliability of the China Manufacturers. That said, thats a pretty complex headlamp. Anything can and will, fail. No matter the brand. More "features" more failures. You could always check out MALKOFF DEVICES. It's as close as you will get to the ultimate in reliability.
SubLGT
Flashlight Enthusiast
In my experience, much less reliable than a Casio $20 digital watch.
RobertMM
Flashlight Enthusiast
I have 9 Surefires, one LED (KX4-HA head) burned due to heat. I though they were immune to that as they had better thermal path than the old P60L+Z44bezel combo in a G2.
It was replaced by Surefire.
Three Fenixes, two (TK10 and PD20) developed switch problems. Tried everything down to taking the actual clicky switches apart and cleaning the tiny contact points with alcohol. No joy, the flakiness lessened but didn't disappear. The HL50 I have now is working fine.
It was replaced by Surefire.
Three Fenixes, two (TK10 and PD20) developed switch problems. Tried everything down to taking the actual clicky switches apart and cleaning the tiny contact points with alcohol. No joy, the flakiness lessened but didn't disappear. The HL50 I have now is working fine.
ForrestChump
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2014
- Messages
- 3,097
Nokia circa 1990's / early 00's
CelticCross74
Flashlight Enthusiast
The only light Ive ever had "fail" on me was one of my beat to death PD35's. Needed new guts amazingly Fenix turned it around in less than 14 days it now functions perfectly. Have 7 Eagletacs and they have all seen their share of use and abuse. Non have failed or malfunctioned in any way. Sorry to hear about these issues some of you have had. Until Surefire drops their prices into the realistic realm I wont buy one. Dont have any need to. Ive got all 3 Malkoff D cell Mag drop ins and they are all bombproof and priced quite reasonably. Ive gotten to use the (then)500 lumen and 1000 lumen Fury's. Was far from impressed they just seemed like the chinese made streamlight Pro tacs but with just a better switch. Chinese made light quality does indeed have a veeeery wide spectrum from crap to quality I agree. That being said I just once again scanned the Surefire site. They admit that the LED's are not American made as well as a couple other "minor parts". A buddy of mine has a Glock .45 with a surefire weapon light that flat out sucks and devours CR123's in no time. Surefires lucrative government contracts will not last forever as only a few of their products are actually American made. God forbid Fenix builds and opens a US manufacturing plant in the south and use American made Cree emitters etc Surefire would be almost out of business over night. I hope I am correct in my dream that Gene Malkoff is passing the time with top consultants and engineers to build and tool up a new US Malkoff factory and launch his own actually American made light line. Surefires are good lights I am not saying they are poor I am saying they are vastly over rated and vastly over priced the rate of malfunction and warranty work at Surefire is likely the highest in the entire industry as just that many Surefires have gone into service LEO/Military over the years of gvt contract.
Sounds like bad luck to me. I have had two PD35s and one PD32 that have seen many years of use, and even some abuse. My experience is that these lights can take a beating without ever developing problems. I don't own any Fenix headlights, though.
As for people who say Surefire is the way to go, just do a search for problems with Surefire lights and you will find horror stories there as well. Every brand you can think of will have reported problems with their products, but on the whole, Fenix is one of the more reliable brands out there. Personally, I can't justify forking out for a Surefire when I can get a Fenix of similar quality for a third of the price. Not only that, but Surefire does not even support 18650 batteries, so you are stuck burning through expensive CR123 primaries.
As for people who say Surefire is the way to go, just do a search for problems with Surefire lights and you will find horror stories there as well. Every brand you can think of will have reported problems with their products, but on the whole, Fenix is one of the more reliable brands out there. Personally, I can't justify forking out for a Surefire when I can get a Fenix of similar quality for a third of the price. Not only that, but Surefire does not even support 18650 batteries, so you are stuck burning through expensive CR123 primaries.
