So back in summer of 017 I went on an M6 by Pelican spree. For those who never heard of it, basically at one point a California light maker went the way of 6 volt cop light in a style not that different than a SureFire 6P or Streamlight TL2. Pentagon did an X2. The Pentagon and Pelican shared parts at some point.
The 'Kroll'd' 2320
I acquired a silver 2320 (the M6 model number) from eBay in great shape, but broken. It seems the Pelican clicky sucks. Not reliable. So I played with it some and never figured out just why it didn't work. Alone the clicky worked perfect. As an assembly in the tailcap it would not 'click' to on, so I had a momentary only version.
Here at CPF it was said that a Kroll switch and a custom sleeve could convert a twisty M6 to clicky. The twisty version were the early kind and I've yet to see one of those. But my brain said to try a Kroll setup in my busted clicky version. I found that flashlight lens dot com still had a sleeve for them and the Sandwich Shoppe still had some Krolls left. Easy enough, right?
Folks, I would not be doing this how to if it were that simple. It appears that Pelican changed something internally at some point. It's not that hard to do this, but the former plug and play twisty to clicky conversion stuff needs a bit of tweaking. I have 3 of the 2320 and 2 of the 2390 and the flashlight lens sleeve did not fit them. It was too big by about 0.1mm. It has been said recently that the sleeve by Sandwich Shoppe is too long and too large for the 2320 clicky. One is being modified as I type this and the details will be told later. (Edit: 9/22/18 Yakaz is doing it but I didn't want to mention his name until he had it beyond a prototype. End edit)
I was able to shave a wee bit of girth from an FLL sleeve and use that one. I reported to FLL the dilema and stated I'd advise him of what took place. My dremel and a sanding drum took all of five minutes to remove enough alluminum to make it easily slide into my M6 tailcap.
Before going any farther take note that the Kroll rubber boot is a goofy pointy thing that pokes out of the tailcap versus the stock flat disk-like boot that barely protrudes. The finished product I did ends up where you squish the goofy rubber dome to activate the light. I dialed mine in where momentary takes precedence and a definite effort is required to actually click it. I'll explain how in this thread.
But first, the repair parts:
A Kroll switch/FLL sleeve assembly
Note the o'ring in the middle. Also note the spring protruding. The o'ring prevents the FLL sleeve and switch assembly from falling out during battery change.
A M6 tailcap disassembled.
Note the Kroll switch comes with a boot attached. It gets removed for this and used later.
A look at the Sandwich Shoppe version of the sleeve.
Stock boot
The Kroll boot.
Now if that doesn't cause you to wince and turn away keep reading.
Like I said, a wee bit of dremel work took care of the oversize metal but... the o'ring causes you to have to apply a bit of force to drive home the sleeve. So some prep work should take place first because once it's home, removal isn't easy. So you dial in how much you want the switch to poke out.
Basically you twist the switch into the sleeve until the spring pokes out of the sleeve. Click the switch to on.
Press the assembly onto the light until the spring makes contact and the light turns on. Twist down more for less switch poking out. I had mine where it was nearly as far out as possible and still make contact, then twisted a half turn for insurance. That makes it easier to momentary.
The switch does not poke out enough to cause concern about accidental turn on.
Once I got it dialed in the Kroll boot was placed inside the tailcap. I pressed the tailcap onto the light and applied pressure until the o'ring had moved down the threads and fastened it down.
Then "click, click, click, click to enjoy the Kroll'd tailcap.
The 'Kroll'd' 2320
I acquired a silver 2320 (the M6 model number) from eBay in great shape, but broken. It seems the Pelican clicky sucks. Not reliable. So I played with it some and never figured out just why it didn't work. Alone the clicky worked perfect. As an assembly in the tailcap it would not 'click' to on, so I had a momentary only version.
Here at CPF it was said that a Kroll switch and a custom sleeve could convert a twisty M6 to clicky. The twisty version were the early kind and I've yet to see one of those. But my brain said to try a Kroll setup in my busted clicky version. I found that flashlight lens dot com still had a sleeve for them and the Sandwich Shoppe still had some Krolls left. Easy enough, right?
Folks, I would not be doing this how to if it were that simple. It appears that Pelican changed something internally at some point. It's not that hard to do this, but the former plug and play twisty to clicky conversion stuff needs a bit of tweaking. I have 3 of the 2320 and 2 of the 2390 and the flashlight lens sleeve did not fit them. It was too big by about 0.1mm. It has been said recently that the sleeve by Sandwich Shoppe is too long and too large for the 2320 clicky. One is being modified as I type this and the details will be told later. (Edit: 9/22/18 Yakaz is doing it but I didn't want to mention his name until he had it beyond a prototype. End edit)
I was able to shave a wee bit of girth from an FLL sleeve and use that one. I reported to FLL the dilema and stated I'd advise him of what took place. My dremel and a sanding drum took all of five minutes to remove enough alluminum to make it easily slide into my M6 tailcap.
Before going any farther take note that the Kroll rubber boot is a goofy pointy thing that pokes out of the tailcap versus the stock flat disk-like boot that barely protrudes. The finished product I did ends up where you squish the goofy rubber dome to activate the light. I dialed mine in where momentary takes precedence and a definite effort is required to actually click it. I'll explain how in this thread.
But first, the repair parts:
A Kroll switch/FLL sleeve assembly
Note the o'ring in the middle. Also note the spring protruding. The o'ring prevents the FLL sleeve and switch assembly from falling out during battery change.
A M6 tailcap disassembled.
Note the Kroll switch comes with a boot attached. It gets removed for this and used later.
A look at the Sandwich Shoppe version of the sleeve.
Stock boot
The Kroll boot.
Now if that doesn't cause you to wince and turn away keep reading.
Like I said, a wee bit of dremel work took care of the oversize metal but... the o'ring causes you to have to apply a bit of force to drive home the sleeve. So some prep work should take place first because once it's home, removal isn't easy. So you dial in how much you want the switch to poke out.
Basically you twist the switch into the sleeve until the spring pokes out of the sleeve. Click the switch to on.
Press the assembly onto the light until the spring makes contact and the light turns on. Twist down more for less switch poking out. I had mine where it was nearly as far out as possible and still make contact, then twisted a half turn for insurance. That makes it easier to momentary.
The switch does not poke out enough to cause concern about accidental turn on.
Once I got it dialed in the Kroll boot was placed inside the tailcap. I pressed the tailcap onto the light and applied pressure until the o'ring had moved down the threads and fastened it down.
Then "click, click, click, click to enjoy the Kroll'd tailcap.
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