was_jlh
Enlightened
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2002
- Messages
- 751
amlim said:
Amlim, my understanding is that you renew with mineral spirits. I am just going to buy a new one instead of keeping another volatile item in the basement.
How to protect knife which is a shelf queen?
- Thread starter amlim
- Start date
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Amlim, my understanding is that you renew with mineral spirits. I am just going to buy a new one instead of keeping another volatile item in the basement.
Some good points here.
If you want to collect something, collect coins or stocks or other things that are valuable.
Tools (knives, flashlights) are meant to be used. Use them!
If I'm going to store a knife for a while, I use CorrosionX or 3 in 1 Oil. Corrosion X is available on www.corrosionx.com
If you want to collect something, collect coins or stocks or other things that are valuable.
Tools (knives, flashlights) are meant to be used. Use them!
If I'm going to store a knife for a while, I use CorrosionX or 3 in 1 Oil. Corrosion X is available on www.corrosionx.com
mgk65 said:
You are the first CPFer that I met whom use CorrosionX on knives. In fact sometime ago I did searches in knife forums around but found nothing about CorrosionX, nobody else seems to use them. I find it a nice product for knives, both as a lubricant and as a rust inhibitor.
Grox
Flashlight Enthusiast
Beautiful story, Kris.
Cy, now you've got me worried! I keep my EDC mnandi in a William Henry leather clipcase - could it be somehow damaging the knife?
Cy, now you've got me worried! I keep my EDC mnandi in a William Henry leather clipcase - could it be somehow damaging the knife?
GarageBoy
Flashlight Enthusiast
What knife IS it? Just wondering what the handle materials are, etc (like stag is porous)
Be careful if using an automotive wax. The formulations are geared towards paint, not bare steel or the organic handle materials. I've tested a variety and found that they seldom adhered to knife surfaces to adequately protect them. Some caused discoloration in handles and it can react with certain metals. Enough contain micro abrasives so it can dull some finishes or draw out the natrual oils/moisture bacause they contain alochol and petrolium based chemicals.
A tub of Renaissance Wax is worth the purchase for any level knife. This wax is used commonly for conservation pieces but like any product, make sure it is compatible with the proposed material you will put it on. It is available at many woodworking supply shops so you may not have to mail order it.
As CY mentioned, the chemicals used in tanning can discolor a knife handle or haze a blade finish. The leather also retains moisture so long term, it may allow rust and pitting to develop unseen.
A tub of Renaissance Wax is worth the purchase for any level knife. This wax is used commonly for conservation pieces but like any product, make sure it is compatible with the proposed material you will put it on. It is available at many woodworking supply shops so you may not have to mail order it.
As CY mentioned, the chemicals used in tanning can discolor a knife handle or haze a blade finish. The leather also retains moisture so long term, it may allow rust and pitting to develop unseen.
Grox
Flashlight Enthusiast
RA40 said:
Why would William Henry Knives have leather pocket clipcases then?
smokinbasser
Flashlight Enthusiast
The chemicals used to tan leather are very corrosive and residues remain in the leather. If knives with non stainless hardware are left in their sheath there will be interactions between the residual chemicals and the metal components. Wax may not provide an effective barrier to the chemicals in the leather. I do use rennaisance wax on all the exposed surfaces and apply white lightning pivot lube to the (what else) the pivots. Mineral oil is a good treatment for ivory, bone,wood and stag handle material to prevent drying and cracking of natural handle materials.
I'd suggest a call WH to verify with them if the case will be sufficient for long term storage. Matt or one of the other guys will be happy to discuss this. Some knives have characteristics that require additional care and others don't.
You would hate to learn an unexpected lesson and hence the suggestions made in this thread. Ultimately, it is your knife so you'll chose a method that you feel is appropriate.
You would hate to learn an unexpected lesson and hence the suggestions made in this thread. Ultimately, it is your knife so you'll chose a method that you feel is appropriate.
GarageBoy
Flashlight Enthusiast
Don't store in leather sheaths. They were made so you could carry the knife, not store it in
Unicorn
Flashlight Enthusiast
RA40 said:
I was thinking a pure carnauba wax, one without the abrasives for removing oxidised finishes and all that crap. It's easier to find in most places than say, Renaissance. I also wasn't thinking about the handle either. My mistake.
I really like Johnson's Paste Wax. It's just a straight wax. Durable enough for floors and does adhere to metal from what I've seen. I use it on all my knives and guns. Including the blued steel Detective Special that I often carry in my pocket or in an inside the waist holster against my skin that sweats a lot. I wouldnt hesitate to use it on leather or wood handled knives as well. Bone, stage, antler though, I know nothing about so I don't have a clue as to what to protect them with.
fasteddie
Enlightened
Grox said:
Leather holds moisture. Bad idea to store knives in leather. Even "stainless" steels will corrode. On the flip side, I get some very fine knives soaking wet and they don't rust if properly cared for.
As to the original question, you have to know what kind of knife (slipjoint, straight blade, liner lock, lockback, etc.) what type of steel the blades are and what the handle material is before you can figure out how to preserve it.
Grox
Flashlight Enthusiast
Thanks for the advice guys. Looks like I'll be spending a little more on knife care products 
