FlashCrazy
Flashlight Enthusiast
A few of you have requested mod instructions for installing a SSC P4 in the Coast Focusing Lenser. I'll post instructions to go along with the pics, but it will take me a couple of days to get time. So for now, this is a work in progress. Check back later! 
Materials/tools needed:
Soldering iron/solder - I use 60/40 rosin core solder, thin, I think around .040 or so.. can't remember exactly.
Small flat tip screwdriver (jeweler's size, used to pry off old emitter)
Small rubber strip wrench (as pictured below), used to remove head of light, and to tighten back down.
Multimeter - used to check polarity of light before soldering on new emitter, and to check current draw of completed light
Small diagonal cutters - to trim the LED legs
Artic Alumina thermal adhesive - used to adhere and electrically isolate new emitter. I get mine from PhotonFanatic in the Dealer's Corner on CPF Marketplace. GREAT service!
Ok, on to the destructions... err, I mean instructions.
Place light in a vise with rubber-lined jaws. Use a rubber strap wrench to loosen the head (optic/lens housing). Turn counterclockwise to loosen it. They can be on really tight sometimes.
After the head is broken loose, the focusing ring (just below the head) will be locked in the full outward position. Use the rubber strap wrench on this piece only, and turn the OTHER way (clockwise) to get it free again.
Here we have the emitter and retainer. Remove the two small phillips screws, then remove the retainer.
Gently pry off the old emitter. They come off easily if you use a small enough screwdriver.
Now you can use your soldering iron to remove the old LED. Make sure your soldering iron tip is nicely tinned, then add a tiny bit of solder to it. You should only have to touch it to the solder joints for a second or less.
With the LED removed, install batteries in the light and turn it on. Make sure the two wires don't short together though! Use a voltmeter to check the polarity of the wires. I put a + mark on the top of the heatsink next to the positive wire for later reference.
Tin the end of each wire with new solder.
Here we have brand new SSC P4 emitters. I typically use the SWO tint (pure white)
Use the diagonal cutters to trim the two long legs of the LED. Cut at the first bend from the LED body. Uncut emitters shown at top of pic. Emitter on left in center of pic has been trimmed. Using the small screwdriver, bend all legs of the emitter down against the side of the emitter. Emitter in center of pic on right has its legs bent down.
This is how it should look
Tin two legs of the emitter with solder. When the emitter is facing you like shown, tin only the leg on the right. Turn the emitter around, and again tin the leg on the right. (They're diagonal from each other when viewed from the top).
The U-shaped leg shown here denotes the Negative side of the emitter. BUT, the negative leg (-) is the one on the right, shown here being tinned. The positive leg (+) is diagonally opposite the negative leg, on the other side of the LED. With the emitter facing you, it will also be on the right-hand side.
I set my soldering iron to about 625 degrees. With the emitter legs and flashlight wires tinned with solder, you should only have to touch the tip of your iron to the contact points for no more than a couple of seconds. Don't heat it up for too long, or you can damage the emitter. If it's taking too long, either your iron isn't hot enough, it's not tinned properly, or it's just flat-out dirty and not providing good heat transfer. (Kind of how mine looks here...lol)
Here's the emitter after soldering it to the leads. Notice the + mark I etched into the heatsink on the left side. That's (obviously) the lead that tested positive with the multimeter. Using a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol, clean the underside of the new emitter, and the top of the heatsink post. Otherwise the thermal adhesive won't adhere the emitter properly. Now we're ready to mix a bit of Artic Alumina and apply it to the top of the post. I like to put just a tiny coat on the underside of the emitter as well.
More pics and instructions to come....
Materials/tools needed:
Soldering iron/solder - I use 60/40 rosin core solder, thin, I think around .040 or so.. can't remember exactly.
Small flat tip screwdriver (jeweler's size, used to pry off old emitter)
Small rubber strip wrench (as pictured below), used to remove head of light, and to tighten back down.
Multimeter - used to check polarity of light before soldering on new emitter, and to check current draw of completed light
Small diagonal cutters - to trim the LED legs
Artic Alumina thermal adhesive - used to adhere and electrically isolate new emitter. I get mine from PhotonFanatic in the Dealer's Corner on CPF Marketplace. GREAT service!
Ok, on to the destructions... err, I mean instructions.
Place light in a vise with rubber-lined jaws. Use a rubber strap wrench to loosen the head (optic/lens housing). Turn counterclockwise to loosen it. They can be on really tight sometimes.
After the head is broken loose, the focusing ring (just below the head) will be locked in the full outward position. Use the rubber strap wrench on this piece only, and turn the OTHER way (clockwise) to get it free again.
Here we have the emitter and retainer. Remove the two small phillips screws, then remove the retainer.
Gently pry off the old emitter. They come off easily if you use a small enough screwdriver.
Now you can use your soldering iron to remove the old LED. Make sure your soldering iron tip is nicely tinned, then add a tiny bit of solder to it. You should only have to touch it to the solder joints for a second or less.
With the LED removed, install batteries in the light and turn it on. Make sure the two wires don't short together though! Use a voltmeter to check the polarity of the wires. I put a + mark on the top of the heatsink next to the positive wire for later reference.
Tin the end of each wire with new solder.
Here we have brand new SSC P4 emitters. I typically use the SWO tint (pure white)
Use the diagonal cutters to trim the two long legs of the LED. Cut at the first bend from the LED body. Uncut emitters shown at top of pic. Emitter on left in center of pic has been trimmed. Using the small screwdriver, bend all legs of the emitter down against the side of the emitter. Emitter in center of pic on right has its legs bent down.
This is how it should look
Tin two legs of the emitter with solder. When the emitter is facing you like shown, tin only the leg on the right. Turn the emitter around, and again tin the leg on the right. (They're diagonal from each other when viewed from the top).
The U-shaped leg shown here denotes the Negative side of the emitter. BUT, the negative leg (-) is the one on the right, shown here being tinned. The positive leg (+) is diagonally opposite the negative leg, on the other side of the LED. With the emitter facing you, it will also be on the right-hand side.
I set my soldering iron to about 625 degrees. With the emitter legs and flashlight wires tinned with solder, you should only have to touch the tip of your iron to the contact points for no more than a couple of seconds. Don't heat it up for too long, or you can damage the emitter. If it's taking too long, either your iron isn't hot enough, it's not tinned properly, or it's just flat-out dirty and not providing good heat transfer. (Kind of how mine looks here...lol)
Here's the emitter after soldering it to the leads. Notice the + mark I etched into the heatsink on the left side. That's (obviously
) the lead that tested positive with the multimeter. Using a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol, clean the underside of the new emitter, and the top of the heatsink post. Otherwise the thermal adhesive won't adhere the emitter properly. Now we're ready to mix a bit of Artic Alumina and apply it to the top of the post. I like to put just a tiny coat on the underside of the emitter as well.
More pics and instructions to come....
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