Husky 3 watt light LED light
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kramer5150
Flashaholic
I bought 3 Husky lights for modding...
3Watt, Cree XR-E
1Watt, Cree XR-C
Right now the 3W is running direct drive
off the 18650 and its really bright, in the ~150 Lumen ballpark. Its a 4-wire Cree XR-E, I'm guessing either a P4 or Q2. I can't imagine they are using a higher-premium BIN. Of course its going to 
, so I don't intend to leave it this way for long, but it is really bright for $21
. Stage 2 of the mod will be a DX6190 DC board and a glass lens.
I didn't even bother trying it with 3xAAA cells, its a well made light, good emitter and good reflector.... it deserves better than that.
The 3W is a nice mod host though, cheap and B/M available. It easily comes apart.. no glue anywhere. Good thermal conduction path, and has a 17mm provision for the DC-DC board. The forward clicky is deeply recessed so its hard to press, but it tail stands nicely. The driver pill is aluminum though, so you can't solder it at all. So electrical contact with the DC board needs to be made via physical contact, not solder conduction. The reflector geometry is set up for throw (seems to be a consistent theme with all the Cree Hiusky lights). anyhoot here are some more pics.
Modded 3Watt right, DX11836-6P left
Stock 1Watt (3xAAA :sick2 right, DX11836-6P left
3Watt, Cree XR-E
1Watt, Cree XR-C
Right now the 3W is running direct drive
off the 18650 and its really bright, in the ~150 Lumen ballpark. Its a 4-wire Cree XR-E, I'm guessing either a P4 or Q2. I can't imagine they are using a higher-premium BIN. Of course its going to , so I don't intend to leave it this way for long, but it is really bright for $21. Stage 2 of the mod will be a DX6190 DC board and a glass lens.I didn't even bother trying it with 3xAAA cells, its a well made light, good emitter and good reflector.... it deserves better than that.
The 3W is a nice mod host though, cheap and B/M available. It easily comes apart.. no glue anywhere. Good thermal conduction path, and has a 17mm provision for the DC-DC board. The forward clicky is deeply recessed so its hard to press, but it tail stands nicely. The driver pill is aluminum though, so you can't solder it at all. So electrical contact with the DC board needs to be made via physical contact, not solder conduction. The reflector geometry is set up for throw (seems to be a consistent theme with all the Cree Hiusky lights). anyhoot here are some more pics.
Modded 3Watt right, DX11836-6P left
Stock 1Watt (3xAAA :sick2
right, DX11836-6P left
Last edited:
jake25
Enlightened
http://www.google.com/search?q=husky+light&sitesearch=candlepowerforums.com
common man...
:welcome::sigh:
BobAsh
Newly Enlightened
I bought 3 Husky lights for modding...Right now the 3W is running direct drive
Kramer5150,
Do you think this would work OK if used intermittently?
kramer5150
Flashaholic
I have been running mine (the 3-watt husky) for long stints (40+ minutes), as an area light above my PC desk. Tail-stand + ceiling bounce = ~200L of area flood. The bezel gets warm after 5-6 minutes. The heat continues down the body, where the entire light continues to warm until around the 13 minute mark, where it levels off a bit. The light is warm to the touch but not alarmingly hot.
Certainly I would think short bursts (0-5 minutes) should be OK. Perhaps I just got luck with this particular emitter?
One further thing to note, 18650 cells do not fit without grinding the light pill assembly and reflector down. Also I am using flat-topped cells, as my nubbed cells do not fit (too long)
IMHO an 18500 cell would be better for this light, it should just drop right in with a paper roll to fill up the tube gap. Surprisingly its my brightest light, near 200 lumens compared to a malkoff M60....
BobAsh
Newly Enlightened
Interesting, thanks.
I have just purchased a husky 3 watt spot light and the guys are saying that if the charge indicator light doesn't come on to take it back that it's a dud. Mine didn't come on right away and I charged it for 9 hrs. The charge light came on about half way through the charge and didn't go off. It apparently charged because it is real bright. Should I worry about the charge light or just charge it for an hr. or so each time it goes down or take it back for a replacement? Thanks
PS I didn't know where to post this,maybe some of you guys will have an answer.
Thirple
PS I didn't know where to post this,maybe some of you guys will have an answer.
Thirple
bob4apple
Enlightened
My Husky "sausage" 3W 3AAA light works great with a 14500, and after all, the voltage is about the same, so why shouldn't it?
I had to put a plastic wire-bundling tube around the battery and extend the tailcap spring a little to make good contact, and that did the trick. A glass lens would be the 'cherry on top".
(These food references are making me hungry).
I had to put a plastic wire-bundling tube around the battery and extend the tailcap spring a little to make good contact, and that did the trick. A glass lens would be the 'cherry on top".
(These food references are making me hungry).
bob4apple
Enlightened
Well, OK, but in my opinion that's a good thing. Being middle aged
means not having to worry about the longevity of an LED, especially
if you own many more flashlights than you need.
I'm betting I'll outlast the LED unless I drive myself too hard,
and doing that would be soooo unlike me.
