I don't want to attach a SF diffuser. What's the best way to diffuse my SF E2DL?

Art Vandelay

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Re: I don't want to attach a SF defuser. What's the best way to defuse my SF E2DL?

Use a cap from a water bottle. That will also spare your pants from the E2DL teeth.
 

Illum

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Re: I don't want to attach a SF defuser. What's the best way to defuse my SF E2DL?

Use a cap from a water bottle. That will also spare your pants from the E2DL teeth.

that thought never crossed my mind...I've heard chapstick caps makes great diffusers on fenixes but never occurred to me water bottle caps could work, be sure to use the transparent ones, the opaque ones will diffuse it a little too throughly, and might melt through:crackup:
 

dmz

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Re: I don't want to attach a SF defuser. What's the best way to defuse my SF E2DL?

How do you open the open the bezel on the SF E2DL with out damage? Do you boil it in a plastic bag? Do you need pliers and a vice to crack it open?
 

WildChild

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Re: I don't want to attach a SF defuser. What's the best way to defuse my SF E2DL?

Defuse = to remove a fuse (from a bomb etc).
Diffuse = to spread out, disperse, scatter.

Tic, Tac, Tic, Tac, Tic, Tac... BOOM!

Damn, he didn't defuse his E2DL fast enough... This is what happens when you don't want to use company's provided defuser! ;)
 

Illum

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Re: I don't want to attach a SF defuser. What's the best way to defuse my SF E2DL?

How do you open the open the bezel on the SF E2DL with out damage? Do you boil it in a plastic bag? Do you need pliers and a vice to crack it open?

I think boiling it is the key...I have not tried to do so before I sold mine:)
 

Ducaticorse

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Re: I don't want to attach a SF defuser. What's the best way to defuse my SF E2DL?

How do you open the open the bezel on the SF E2DL with out damage? Do you boil it in a plastic bag? Do you need pliers and a vice to crack it open?
Just out of curiosity - are you opening the head to mod the light? I would not personally bother opening the head if your intention is to put the diffuser material on the INSIDE of the lens. It's quite tough (it is PDA screen-protector type material) and with the added protection from the E2DL's strike bezel, you should not have any issues with the durability of waynejitsu's diffuser film.

Just my $0.02...
 

Art Vandelay

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Re: I don't want to attach a SF defuser. What's the best way to defuse my SF E2DL?

Opening the head will void your Surefire warranty.
 

dmz

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Re: I don't want to attach a SF defuser. What's the best way to defuse my SF E2DL?

Does any one have beam shots of a diffuser on a E2DL?
 

Zenster

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Re: I don't want to attach a SF defuser. What's the best way to defuse my SF E2DL?

I've been in the RC hobby for years, and my favorite part of the hobby is building from plans (not from kits).

There is a product sold for the purpose of making stiff templates by etching through the film while being laid over the plan.
It turns out that what it really is (but is being sold for template use) is simply photographer's diffusion film.
It's nice and stiff (maybe .011" thick), and what I do that works perfectly on lights like the Surefires with glued-in lenses is to simply cut a circle of the film that's a very, very ,very small smidgeon in size larger than the inside of the light's bezel.
Then what you do is to press the diffuser on top of the lens and the friction fit of the edge of the film to the bezel holds it on even when dropped. But if you want to remove it, you just take a razor blade and carefully catch an edge of the diffuser and pop it off.

On the other hand if you have a light with a removeable lens (like my DBS), what I do is to cut a round piece using the lens itself as a guide so that the diffuser is exactly the same size as the lens.
Then you just take off the bezel and lay the diffuser material on top of the lenz and screw the bezel back on which holds the diffuser in place as permenantly as you like until you want to remove it.
I've yet to see this material affected by heat from any of my lights, probably because it's used in it's original form to be put over Klieg lights in a photographer's studio.

$5.00 will buy a sheet 22" x 52", and that's large enough to diffuse a lifetime collection of lights.
http://www.seetemp.com/products.php

Just my .02, but it works great.
 

Niconical

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Re: I don't want to attach a SF defuser. What's the best way to defuse my SF E2DL?

Is there a clamp-on diffuser, like the FM34, but for the E series lights?
 

matt0

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Re: I don't want to attach a SF defuser. What's the best way to defuse my SF E2DL?

FM54

It's kind of expensive though...
 

Niconical

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Re: I don't want to attach a SF defuser. What's the best way to defuse my SF E2DL?

Thanks for the reply.

I googled it, and you're right, $75....:eek:oo:

I'm only actually interested because the teeth on my new E2DL are sharper than I expected.
Maybe the F04 would be a better choice.
 

dmz

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Zenster, is the 22"x52"x.011" Sheet of templating material red or clear color? Does the 22"x52"x.011" Sheet of templating material have sticky adheasive on the back? Is it easy to cut with a hobby exacto knife?

http://www.seetemp.com/products.php
 

Zenster

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Zenster, is the 22"x52"x.011" Sheet of templating material red or clear color? Does the 22"x52"x.011" Sheet of templating material have sticky adheasive on the back? Is it easy to cut with a hobby exacto knife?

http://www.seetemp.com/products.php

Yea, oops, I screwed up.

The thing is, I bought that product (a 5 sheet pack) about 4 years ago. But I just checked with the company when I saw your note here and asked them about the color. I thought it was just made to "look" red to show up better on the website, but they have actually changed the color of the product to a translucent red because they said that customers complained that the "white" frost color of the original material became invisible and hard to find on a workbench (they're right about that :).

There is no adhesive at all, and the easiest way to use it is to trace what you want with an exacto knife right on the plastic, and then the exacto-traced part easily breaks out with just a little flexing.

I have two full sheets left (22" x 52") of the original white frost material, so I guess I need to put it away and just use it for flashlight diffusing.
With your heads-up, I'm now going to order another 5-pack of the newer red color material that I will from now on use for making my RC templates for building airplanes.

But wait! If a person wants a red light for at night... I'll have to try that when I get the new stuff. :)

Tell 'ya what, dmz; if you want to PM me your mailing address, I'll put a piece of the original material I have in an envelope and send you enough to do several lights (whatever a piece the size of a #10 envelope will do).
That's just an offer for you, though, because I feel I put you out since you actually went there to check out the link I gave.
 
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JNewell

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Re: I don't want to attach a SF defuser. What's the best way to defuse my SF E2DL?

I would be interested to know whether putting a diffuser on top of a TIR optic is going to affect output of the light? Seems like a potential waste of photons.


I have made my own and testing some from Gene Malkoff that he is planning on selling. I have a bunch more to test but if your bezel doesn't simply unscrew for you to slip filters in and out than I suggest you get a 6P platform and Malkoff M60, or other aftermarket LED and then you will be able to put filters in and out at will.

Here is link to where I have been doing some testing, there is more to come.

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=205842
 

prime77

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After some thought I have come up with a solution to your needs.
Go to Walmart and some WriteRight universal screen protectors in the IPOD section for $5.88.

015-2.jpg


Then cut a circle to size the E2DL lens. Not shown is how I got the correct size. I took a scrap paper and cut until I got the correct size and then used it as a guide to cut the film.

028-2.jpg


Here is the important step. By itself WriteRight film wont diffuse the E2DL beam. You have to use some 3M scouring pad and rough up the front of the film until you get a nice milky look to the front.

055.jpg


Here's the results:

Before:
044-2.jpg

After:
041-1.jpg

Before:
003-5.jpg

After:
013-1.jpg


Works just as good as the F04 and you get to keep your teeth.
 
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Packet-Storm

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You could send me your Surefire. I'll send you back my C3. You will have exactly the beam you are looking for. No glue or mess to deal with. ;)
 
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