I may cry...

[the.Mtn.Man]

I don't want the anodizing flaking off.

Quality anodizing won't flake off.

 

[jblackwood]

Quality anodizing won't flake off.

Then I guess Dereelight, Nitecore, 4sevens, Fenix, Maglight, Malkoff, AND HDS/Ra lights don't have quality anodizing by your definition. Just to be clear, I take care of my lights but I have lights from each of these makers who got played with a little roughly and have chips and flakes out of the anodizing. Their innards may be IPX8 resistant, but if I leave that exposed Al wet for too long, I risk rust. If you scratch Ti, all that's underneath is more Ti, which is much more corrosion-resistant than good ole Al.

My Surefire 6P seems to have Anodizing that is tougher than the others, but I haven't had too much occasion to put it through as much punishment as my other Al lights, especially since I've been using Ti lights when I know they might get beat up.

 

[TwitchALot]

Then I guess Dereelight, Nitecore, 4sevens, Fenix, Maglight, Malkoff, AND HDS/Ra lights don't have quality anodizing by your definition. Just to be clear, I take care of my lights but I have lights from each of these makers who got played with a little roughly and have chips and flakes out of the anodizing. Their innards may be IPX8 resistant, but if I leave that exposed Al wet for too long, I risk rust. If you scratch Ti, all that's underneath is more Ti, which is much more corrosion-resistant than good ole Al.

My Surefire 6P seems to have Anodizing that is tougher than the others, but I haven't had too much occasion to put it through as much punishment as my other Al lights, especially since I've been using Ti lights when I know they might get beat up.

They all have good anodizing AFAIK, but I think that's probably not as tough as SF anodizing (although honestly, I don't think the difference is that significant). As far as I know, none of the anodizing from any of those companies will flake off. That doesn't mean it won't chip off. Impacts will damage all anodizing. The quality determines the kind of impact necessary to do so, and to what extent.

 

[TedTheLed]

...what no 'locator' mode? tsk.

 

[jblackwood]

Flake, chip, whatever word you use it still means bare aluminum in the end and a good enough reason to go with Ti if you think your light is going to get treated roughly, whether you think it's quality or not.

I love my Al lights, just not as much as my Ti lights. Under normal use, even if you drop them from 3-5 feet onto concrete, most of these lights have maintained their Anodizing. As you can see, though, anodizing CAN come off and leave a vulnerable surface, it has for me on several occasions. :fail:

Titanium won't do that. It'll scratch, sure, and if I'm really :mecry: over the scratches, I can buff and polish them out. You can't (and I see this said time and again in various threads, often by me!) do that with anodized Aluminum. These are facts. Another fact is that for ME and MY rough uses, anodizing on aluminum is just a close 2nd to Titanium. Your reality may be different.

 

[Matt7337]

...what no 'locator' mode? tsk.

Yeah I've pretty much turned the house upside down at this point, it's definately not here. Checked the parking lot as well, and also had a look through the shutters of the place both in darkness (the lights standby beacon is on) and also with my SR3 shining through. No sign of it where I think I left it, but as you've said, hopefully someone will have turned it in.

:thumbsup: Yep, it was on. And I didn't say this before, but I actually saw the beacon before seeing the flashlight. It was under a sideboard cabinet (seriously, right under there... and it has a pocket clip on it for anti-roll?!) and I saw the beacon flashing when I got down on my knees to look for it. I might increase the brightness of the flash though, if that's possible. It's been so long since I tweaked the UI on my clicky that I can hardly remember :)

 

[hyperloop]

Great to hear that you got the light back!! I've lost a Jetbeam Jet I MkIIx, 2 SF G2s and that really sucked. The Jetbeam rolled out of my pocket in a taxi, the G2s rolled out of my bag when another taxi had to brake real hard.

Clips, lanyards and any other means of fastening are the order of the day now, my current EDC Quark MiNi 123 neutral white is on a P7 suspension clip and is very secure.

I also now make it a habit when getting out of cabs, restaurants, anywhere to do a quick check, wallet, cellphones, lights, keys (also on a P7)

Really great to hear you found your light! Hope that the guy who found my Jet I didnt try to charge the 14500 in a NiMH charger :D

 

[kaichu dento]

Locator mode

:thumbsup: Yep, it was on. And I didn't say this before, but I actually saw the beacon before seeing the flashlight. It was under a sideboard cabinet (seriously, right under there... and it has a pocket clip on it for anti-roll?!) and I saw the beacon flashing when I got down on my knees to look for it. I might increase the brightness of the flash though, if that's possible. It's been so long since I tweaked the UI on my clicky that I can hardly remember :)

I turned the locator on for a brief period this past winter and might have left it on if I could have slowed it down to once every 10 seconds or so. Mostly it bothered me, but if Henry will let us choose the interval as well in a future update then we could watch the runtime test done over again! Wouldn't be over nearly so quickly next time around!

 

[Matt7337]

Re: Locator mode

...Clips, lanyards and any other means of fastening are the order of the day now, my current EDC Quark MiNi 123 neutral white is on a P7 suspension clip and is very secure.

I also now make it a habit when getting out of cabs, restaurants, anywhere to do a quick check, wallet, cellphones, lights, keys (also on a P7)...

Same here, I've been using aluminium carabiners and paracord lanyards since this happened, but I do need to do a lighthound order for some more batteries and rechargeable CR123's and 18650's some time soon, so I'll be getting some of those P7 suspension clips as well. They look fantastic :thumbsup:

I turned the locator on for a brief period this past winter and might have left it on if I could have slowed it down to once every 10 seconds or so. Mostly it bothered me, but if Henry will let us choose the interval as well in a future update then we could watch the runtime test done over again! Wouldn't be over nearly so quickly next time around!

Once every 10 seconds would be nice. It bothers me sometimes, but not really considering it's only a 1 lm or maybe even < 1 lm flash, even if it has quite a short interval. I am really looking forward to Henry's next generation of EDC lights (actually I haven't checked on that "speculation" thread in a couple of weeks... must have a look today). They keep getting better and better and I have no doubt that I'll want the new HDS/Ra light offering :) At this rate I'll never get my custom Ti JHanko D10 though :D

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

Then I guess Dereelight, Nitecore, 4sevens, Fenix, Maglight, Malkoff, AND HDS/Ra lights don't have quality anodizing by your definition. Just to be clear, I take care of my lights but I have lights from each of these makers who got played with a little roughly and have chips and flakes out of the anodizing.

Quality anodizing can chip and scratch and wear away from repeated rubbing, but it will not flake off. If it does then it isn't quality anodizing.

 

[TwitchALot]

Flake, chip, whatever word you use it still means bare aluminum in the end and a good enough reason to go with Ti if you think your light is going to get treated roughly, whether you think it's quality or not.

Well, there's a big difference, especially when you're talking about the quality of anodizing of these various companies.

I love my Al lights, just not as much as my Ti lights. Under normal use, even if you drop them from 3-5 feet onto concrete, most of these lights have maintained their Anodizing. As you can see, though, anodizing CAN come off and leave a vulnerable surface, it has for me on several occasions. :fail:

Titanium won't do that. It'll scratch, sure, and if I'm really :mecry: over the scratches, I can buff and polish them out. You can't (and I see this said time and again in various threads, often by me!) do that with anodized Aluminum. These are facts. Another fact is that for ME and MY rough uses, anodizing on aluminum is just a close 2nd to Titanium. Your reality may be different.

Titanium obviously has advantages and disadvantages over aluminum. I have several lights with relatively damaged anodizing that I'll be taking to a humid climate pretty soon though - I'll report back if I see anything suspicious.

 

[jblackwood]

Quality anodizing can chip and scratch and wear away from repeated rubbing, but it will not flake off. If it does then it isn't quality anodizing.

And when it does chip and scratch, it often shows aluminum, which was my original point. If that's quality anodizing, then I'll just stick to my Titanium lights. Just like the paint job on a car, if there is a little rust showing for a long time, chances are that oxidizing can be under all the rest of the hidden area where paint or anodizing is covering it up.

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

And when it does chip and scratch, it often shows aluminum...

To which I say, so what?

 

[jblackwood]

To which I say, so what?

So . . . anodizing CAN flake off, even quality anodizing, if it was first chipped and then allowed to rust, whereas the rust traveled from the exposed area to the unexposed area, thus causing impact from underneath the anodizing, in a sense. Ta-freakin'-da. :nana:

Quality anodizing can flake, Ti doesn't. Sew buttons.

 

[DM51]

Let's stay on topic, shall we?

This thread is about a light that was lost and was then found again. Discussions about whether or not anodizing flakes off are completely irrelevant - it was a Ti light!