I need Solarforce L2P advice on what LED to buy.

[waxycap]

You might see a little increase in runtime with the extension due to there being less stress on a single battery but amperage remains constant in series so it will be the same current draw whether there is one battery or two.

Ok thanks.
Should I get something with higher output/ more lumens than this SporTac Nichia219? It's possible with my current setup, right?

 

[Illum]

I would have suggested a Sportac Triple led dropin but those only take 6volts max. .

Incorrect, Sportac dropins are 2.7-9V for single mode, 2.7-6V two two mode [100%/20%]


I have an SolarForce L2 with an E18 extension to make it 2x18650 and is current running a Sportac triple XPG-2 with no problems. In fact, the runtime is amazing.

​

These are for the single mode version only.

The good thing about the Sportac drop-ins is that the optics is fairly easy to swap out. In fact Most of my Sportac dropins have had the narrow optics swapped out for a Carclo 3-Up frosted wide or frosted medium available from LEDsupply.com , the outputs are now a creamy wall of light without a hint of spot or throw. I lose about 25% of output but the results for my purposes was well worth it

 

[Tac Gunner]

Ok thanks.
Should I get something with higher output/ more lumens than this SporTac Nichia219? It's possible with my current setup, right?

I would take advantage of the increase voltage of the extension and get a drop in like I had built by Richard at Mountain Electronics, all the info is in the link above. It's close to 2k lumens and with a slight more current and the decreased voltage sag of using those batteries you have, you should be over 2k lumens easily. It's still a neutral tint with good CRI. You can still use the light without the extension by using 2 8350 batteries.

 

[waxycap]

Incorrect, Sportac dropins are 2.7-9V for single mode, 2.7-6V two two mode [100%/20%]


I have an SolarForce L2 with an E18 extension to make it 2x18650 and is current running a Sportac triple XPG-2 with no problems. In fact, the runtime is amazing.



These are for the single mode version only.

The good thing about the Sportac drop-ins is that the optics is fairly easy to swap out. In fact Most of my Sportac dropins have had the narrow optics swapped out for a Carclo 3-Up frosted wide or frosted medium available from LEDsupply.com , the outputs are now a creamy wall of light without a hint of spot or throw. I lose about 25% of output but the results for my purposes was well worth it

I think I'm probably gonna try that out. Thanks to all who steered me in the right direction.

 

[waxycap]

Sorry to bring up an old post, but I was just about to order the Two-Mode Triple Nichia 219's mentioned above and noticed that the batteries I plan on using (seen in my first picture) are 3.7V. The triple Nichias are made for 2.7 - 6V, which is fine for one battery. My concern is, won't running two 3.7V batteries in series make it 7.4V and possibly fry the LEDs? I think this is what's meant by "current draw", but all LED's are different, so I wanted to be sure. With the extension tube, does the voltage just get regulated by the LEDs down to 3.7V?

 

[lightmyfire13]

Sorry to bring up an old post, but I was just about to order the Two-Mode Triple Nichia 219's mentioned above and noticed that the batteries I plan on using (seen in my first picture) are 3.7V. The triple Nichias are made for 2.7 - 6V, which is fine for one battery. My concern is, won't running two 3.7V batteries in series make it 7.4V and possibly fry the LEDs? I think this is what's meant by "current draw", but all LED's are different, so I wanted to be sure. With the extension tube, does the voltage just get regulated by the LEDs down to 3.7V?

No u will almost certainly fry it....

 

[holygeez03]

If you are concerned about temp/tint/CRI... I would contact Vinh and have him build you a P60 drop-in... he is very knowledgeable about temp/tint issues and is probably you're best bet for making sure you get something aesthetically pleasing.

Tell him what you are looking for beam-wise (flood, throw, mix), how you plan to operate the light (1x18650, 2x16650, etc) and if you prioritize runtime or max output.


At the same time, it's unlikely that you will get bad temp/tint using Nichias and according to the specs for this model, it can handle 9v... so 2x16650 should be fine?

http://goinggear.com/sportac-p60-nichia-219-cri-92-1224-lumen-led-drop-in-for-p60-body-surefire-flashlights.html

 

[holygeez03]

After more looking... I guess there are some triple nichia drop-ins that are 6v? So you just need to find a 9v version with the features you want.

For some reason, the 2-mode Sportac P60's appear to be 6v... the 2-mode driver can't handle 9v? I guess most people desire to use either 2xCR123 or 1x18650, so it makes sense.

http://goinggear.com/sportac-two-le...pacer-adapter-for-18650-body-flashlights.html

 

[waxycap]

If you are concerned about temp/tint/CRI... I would contact Vinh and have him build you a P60 drop-in... he is very knowledgeable about temp/tint issues and is probably you're best bet for making sure you get something aesthetically pleasing.

Tell him what you are looking for beam-wise (flood, throw, mix), how you plan to operate the light (1x18650, 2x16650, etc) and if you prioritize runtime or max output.


At the same time, it's unlikely that you will get bad temp/tint using Nichias and according to the specs for this model, it can handle 9v... so 2x16650 should be fine?

http://goinggear.com/sportac-p60-nichia-219-cri-92-1224-lumen-led-drop-in-for-p60-body-surefire-flashlights.html

That's great, but whatever works for 2x 3.7V running in series is what I need, since I am stuck with these two batteries and I have no use for them. Do you know of a similar product that could handle the 3.7V x 2?

No u will almost certainly fry it....

That's what I was afraid of. Maybe there is a 4x Led Nichia of the same kind, but can handle two 3.7V 16650s? The three 3400mAh 18650s I have are also 3.7V, so it's a no-brainer... an LED of the same caliber is what I need.

 

[holygeez03]

It appears that the single mode will work with 2x16650 (9v)... http://goinggear.com/sportac-p60-ni...-in-for-18650-base-host-body-flashlights.html

If you want a two-mode module, you may be stuck using 1x16650 (6v)... http://goinggear.com/sportac-two-le...pacer-adapter-for-18650-body-flashlights.html

The descriptions seems to be a little goofed up regarding lumen output... I think they are both 676 ANSI lumens max? Not sure what the two-mode outputs on low.

IF (and that's a big if since I barely dabble in P60 stuff) my information is correct... I would go with the two-mode (6v) and run the host with 1x16650 and bring the other 16650 as a spare.

The other option would be having someone build you a two-mode 9v module, but that will be way more expensive than those Sportac Nichias.

 

[holygeez03]

According to this info, the output of the 3xNichia is higher than Going Gear's spotty specs... the two-mode clearly states up to 6v... the single mode does not state a voltage range... it's probably 9v for the single mode (appears to be designed for 3xCR123), as reported by GG, but I would have Eagletac confirm.

Brightness level on low for the 2-mode appears to be 20%...

https://www.eagletac-usa.com/products/productList.aspx?uid=46-47


If the specs are accurate, the max output on high is the same for the 1-mode and 2-mode, but the 2-mode has about 150% the runtime using 1x18650... granted, using the 1-mode with 2x18650 should give you about double the runtime, but it seems to me that you are FAR better off using the 2-mode with 1x16650 and bringing a spare 16650.

 

[waxycap]

According to this info, the output of the 3xNichia is higher than Going Gear's spotty specs... the two-mode clearly states up to 6v... the single mode does not state a voltage range... it's probably 9v for the single mode (appears to be designed for 3xCR123), as reported by GG, but I would have Eagletac confirm.

Brightness level on low for the 2-mode appears to be 20%...

https://www.eagletac-usa.com/products/productList.aspx?uid=46-47


If the specs are accurate, the max output on high is the same for the 1-mode and 2-mode, but the 2-mode has about 150% the runtime using 1x18650... granted, using the 1-mode with 2x18650 should give you about double the runtime, but it seems to me that you are FAR better off using the 2-mode with 1x16650 and bringing a spare 16650.

This has been very helpful. I think what I'll do (unless someone else can find me the right LED built for 2 x 3.7V batteries) is just leave out the extension tube for the time being and use my second 16650 as a backup battery. Then, maybe later I'll buy a proper pair of 3.0V 18650's and I'll still be able to use the triple LED Nichia with even better results. Reason being is I don't want to settle for the 9V Nichia LED and be stuck with single mode.

 

[holygeez03]

Agreed, the single mode seems obsolete... seems like it would only be for someone with a legacy host and/or determined to use 3xCR123 or 2xRCR123?

Based on specs, you will get almost the same runtime and output using the 2-mode with one cell... and the light will be WAY more compact.

I don't know of any 3.0 volt 18650's? But yes, if you like the triple Nichia, you should definitely switch to proper 18650's at some point for max runtime and current.

 

[scs]

Sorry to bring up an old post, but I was just about to order the Two-Mode Triple Nichia 219's mentioned above and noticed that the batteries I plan on using (seen in my first picture) are 3.7V. The triple Nichias are made for 2.7 - 6V, which is fine for one battery. My concern is, won't running two 3.7V batteries in series make it 7.4V and possibly fry the LEDs? I think this is what's meant by "current draw", but all LED's are different, so I wanted to be sure. With the extension tube, does the voltage just get regulated by the LEDs down to 3.7V?

Do take note that 3.7V is just the NOMINAL voltage of those Li-ions.
Fully charged up, each actually has 4.2V.
So your dropins have to be rated for at least 8.4V. (That's why some have a 9V limit: to let the buyer know that it can accommodate 2xLi-ion.

 

[scs]

Almost all P60 dropins made for Li-ion cells today have just buck drivers instead of buck+boost drivers. Without a voltage boosting capable driver, 1xLi-ion cannot maintain max output in flat regulation for long, because its voltage quickly sags below the forwarding voltage of the LED + circuit voltage overhead. Output steadily declines as you can see in the runtime plots provided in an earlier post. Use your extension body with 2x18650s and pick a dropin that can support at least 8.4V if you require constant, max output.

 

[holygeez03]

The runtime graph earlier in the post states that it is for the single mode module (9v)... so isn't it possible that the newer two-mode version, with an operating range of 2.7v - 6.0v will do a much better job of regulating with 1x18650 (and hopefully has a boost driver if it claims 2.7v input)? It seems pretty clear based on the operating voltages and runtimes that the single mode and two-mode Sportacs are using very different drivers.

Also, the EagleTac site shows a 1x18650 runtime (1.6 hours on high)... they show an ANSI lumen output, so hopefully that is an ANSI runtime? If so, it seems that it has been designed with 1x18650 in mind...

The best thing would be a runtime graph using the 2-mode module and 1x18650... is it out there?

 

[waxycap]

Almost all P60 dropins made for Li-ion cells today have just buck drivers instead of buck+boost drivers. Without a voltage boosting capable driver, 1xLi-ion cannot maintain max output in flat regulation for long, because its voltage quickly sags below the forwarding voltage of the LED + circuit voltage overhead. Output steadily declines as you can see in the runtime plots provided in an earlier post. Use your extension body with 2x18650s and pick a dropin that can support at least 8.4V if you require constant, max output.

Well, if I could find a drop-in that was both 8.4V and two-mode, I would consider it, but I don't ever want a single mode LED.

 

[scs]

The runtime graph earlier in the post states that it is for the single mode module (9v)... so isn't it possible that the newer two-mode version, with an operating range of 2.7v - 6.0v will do a much better job of regulating with 1x18650 (and hopefully has a boost driver if it claims 2.7v input)? It seems pretty clear based on the operating voltages and runtimes that the single mode and two-mode Sportacs are using very different drivers.

Also, the EagleTac site shows a 1x18650 runtime (1.6 hours on high)... they show an ANSI lumen output, so hopefully that is an ANSI runtime? If so, it seems that it has been designed with 1x18650 in mind...

The best thing would be a runtime graph using the 2-mode module and 1x18650... is it out there?

No, the 2-mode has a buck only driver. It may be just so slightly more efficient than the buck only driver of the 1-mode.
The 2.7V just means the light will still turn on, but it will not be at full output of the max level, and output will not be constant, but gradually decreasing. I believe the light is in direct drive at that point. The same goes for even the lower mode, depending on whether 2.7V is sufficient to drive that level.

IIRC, ANSI runtime is the time it takes for the light output to drop to 10% of its initial output (30 sec after the light is turned on). It gives no information about whether output is constant during that runtime.

 

[holygeez03]

Well, hopefully waxycap can try out the 2-mode with a single cell and report back...

It seems like a horrible idea for Eagletac to advertise their drop-ins with constant mentions of 1x18650 usage if the light is going to continuously and rapidly diminish as soon as the light is turned on.

 

[scs]

Well, hopefully waxycap can try out the 2-mode with a single cell and report back...

It seems like a horrible idea for Eagletac to advertise their drop-ins with constant mentions of 1x18650 usage if the light is going to continuously and rapidly diminish as soon as the light is turned on.

Well, those triples first take a quick dip, and then you do get constant output, albeit for only 10-15 mins, before a steady decline.
It's not just ET. Any buck only driver powering an emitter or emitters at levels that require a forwarding voltage near the 4.2V of 1x Li-ion will do that.
Some brands of cells can maintain voltage longer than others and they will give you longer runtimes with constant output.
Truth is a lot of retail lights have only buck drivers that cannot sustain the lights' max output for long. That's another reason they stepdown, though manufacturers always cite temperature control as THE reason.