I Think Im going to Cry

[Justintoxicated]

Well I had everything working for my little project, just had finished the test run for the LED's; left them on for a few hours running perfectly...Since I was ready to mount them on my ATV tomarrow, I thought I would see how they looked in my computer (for a new mod)...Well as I started to move one to the back of the computer I bumped something and something grounded out (PSU shut off).

Bad thing is, the 2 Blue LUX III's would not light back up. I pulled them off and measured the current coming form the circuit. 2.42 amps! OMG...Toasted the LM317T somehow. I don't have a clue what grounded out either. Tested both the LUX IIIs on the 340ma circuit and neither of them light up..Both toasted.....

that makes a total of 7 Luxeons I have toasted or broken over the last year /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif 2 died because of a defective component in my circuit last time. 2 this time because I somehow shorted them out, and 2 a while back because I hooked them up wrong, and one that got smashed against a wall (LONG STORY)..

I need some encouragement here or insults; which ever you see fit. The project was COMPLEATLY finished, I just needed 2 longer bolts...Now I need 2 Fresh LEDs and a new LM317T....

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/help.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/broke.gif

 

[DrJ]

.

 

[shiftd]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
well, learn from your failure is what i can say. be careful next time /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[MR Bulk]

Justintox, try finishing your aerobic workouts first before modding... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Rothrandir]

yikes man! that's horrible luck!

i goofed a led up while modding once, but didn't completely kill it, and that was when i was really really hungry.

now i make it a point to:
a) eat pizza first
b) have my current beverage of choice on hand
c) be completely naked (it's really a good idea to lay a cloth or sheet of paper over your "lap" though, to protect from solder blobs /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mecry.gif)
d) have the area fairly clean, so that when you set something down you'll be able to find it again

following these steps, i have never made an irrevocable mistake /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
where you following all the above steps?

 

[roguesw]

i feel for ya buddy, was building my mclux and had everything potted inside the ecan with epoxy and the darn board shorted out. had to dremel it all out and wait for replacement. lucky i didnt blow the led though
my lesson learnt, dont rush and plan everything out and test and test
des

 

[whiskypapa3]

With that kind of luck I'd eat my Chinese New Years Dinner at Mickey Dee's

 

[Justintoxicated]

yea...Im just well. bummed...Wasetn really rushing, but I think one of the wires maybe shorted together or rubbed my Cable Modems coaxel head (we have no gounds in my house so I think it built up a charge and shorted it. Thats my guess)
The circuit was compleatly sealed up. Luckily the circuit is fixable very easily this time (Better design). The LM317T is what got toasted, I't smelled wonderful.

I was thinking about modding a 3D maglight or another maglight of choice eventually, or making a light out of PVC...You guys have any recomendations as far as parts are concerned? Like should I pickup a white LuxIII (star or emitter) while im at it? I can get the blues for like $20 probably but shipping is always like $10. I wish only one blue fried, but it seems that when the LM317T blew up it shot over 2 amps to both the lights, I thought only one was supposed to blow in series!

thanks for the encouragement, guess its not the end of the world, 4 dead starts out of 4 that I was using for the ATV project, at least the first 2 dead stars were not really my fault(Bad component)..

 

[Mark_Larson]

Why don't you RMA if you got defective Luxeons?

 

[RussH]

I have probably fried 10 LM317s in the last year or two. Two of them started working again after sitting for a couple of weeks. I destructively tested 2 others. The thermal protection will work for MONTHs with about a 2 -3 amp load (battery charging group 24-27 batteries). Anyway, there are about 50 of them still working in .5-1.5 amp wallwarts, a few 4-10amp power supplies, etc.. Actually, I've fried more 7815s than LM317s. All of these are under $.50 at Mouser electronics. Sometimes I even use protection diodes! See the National Semiconductor applications PDF for the above chips and various schematics with protection...

 

[milkyspit]

Justintoxicated, don't be sad. You're learning how to do a great mod the Edisonian way! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif I'm sure you've heard the famous Thomas Edison quote about not failing, but rather finding 50,000 ways that don't work. This is the way we all learn. Show me a great modder and I'll show you a trail of rubble! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowlaugh.gif

Now on to practical matters...

Good Source of LM317: I like MPJA.com. Follow this link and you can order 25 of the LM317 chips for 49 cents each. They have a $15 minimum order, but it's not hard to reach that. Great site for lots of mod-friendly stuff! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif

PVC Fun! Take a look at my Milky Candle photos over here. That PVC pipe coupling that I use as a housing is PERFECT for building your very own PVC flashlight. The endcaps unscrew, and it's just large enough to handle two 123 cells, switch, resistor and emitter. You might even be able to squeeze a regulation circuit in there... and even an optic! Just for fun I've got a cool light made out of one of those tubes plus a BB500 R2H sandwich, NX05 optic, and homemade tactical-style switch, running on a single 123 cell. Just watch that you don't drive the LED too hard or the heat buildup'll get ya! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Here's a fun project. Take $10 with you to Home Depot or Lowe's Hardware (whichever you prefer), go to the plumbing section, look through all the bits of PVC pipe, connectors, and other doohickeys, and buy as many interesting pieces as you can on your $10 budget. Then go home and play with them, think about what might fit in them, experiment, and I GUARANTEE you'll come up with something good! Like the Colt 45 malt liquor slogan says, "Works every time." /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

PM me if you wanna chat more on this, or just post in the thread here for the benefit of all! And no matter what, keep /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif...

Rothrandir, that was too much information dude. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jpshakehead.gif Roth the naked modder? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ohgeez.gif

 

[gadget_lover]

Like milkyspit says, you're learning about what not to do.

There are things you can do to minimize the number of "learning experiences".
<ul type="square">[*]Always double check voltages and current

[*]Always be aware of static discharge.

[*]If you find a term that you are unsure of, look it up. If you don't know what a Vf is, you will not be able to tell how it will affect your projects. If you don't recognize the term "power dissipation" you have little chance of staying within the limits.

[*]Plan to use things in such a way that you don't approach their limits. If it's rated for 1 watt, stop at .75 or 9 when developing things. If it's designed for use between 0 and 212 degrees, try not to take it past 160 degrees or so. After everything is working perfectly is a good time to push the envelope.

[*]Learn the formulas of basic electricity. There's only a few. E=(I*R) is a basic. So is P=(E*I). These two formulas will let you calculate the power, voltage, ampherage or resistance in a circuit. A very little math will take you a long way.

[*]Find out in advance what the DESIGNED failure modes are. Some components will short when they fail, some will open. Very few are totally unpredictable.
If you know how it fails you'll know how to protect it. A simple fuse would have probably saved your project.

[*]Never experiment when you are dead tired. I don't program after midnight, even though that's when I'm most creative. It's also when I make the most mistakes.

[*] Change only one thing at a time (when possible) when experimenting. If you change several things, you don't know which change is causing the new behaviour.
[/list]

Good luck

Daniel

 

[WildRice]

PVC ig great for low budget building. I made a multi use camping light (ill try to post some pics later) I used 3/4" PVC (fit the laptop NiMH cells I had) and used RCA connectors. female end on washer on end of PVC. Male end in washer inside coupler. It is a single battery pack/4x dimmable and 5 different attachments.
Jeff

 

[Justintoxicated]

Ok, I'll keep trying, The circuit was actually working perfectly fine, something definately shorted because the PSU kicked off. If I just would have waited untill I got the bolts (trying to find a store tonight) I would be finished already! I did tripple check everything, and it was working, I had to have shorted something out, why else would an LM317T just die?

Heres what I'm thinking about ordering

- Replacement Lux III Blue stars x2
- White Lux III (Star or emitter?!?! to make my own flashlight)
- Maybe a Side emitter for the whip on my bike (gotta find a way to get it to screw in like a lightbulb or to mount it on the end of a flag.)
- Replacement Cyan LED (for another project)

Any ideas what I can use for a fuseable link on the 350ma line? What about the 1 amp line? Thanks! Im starting to get over the loss...No1 but you guys can understand the disapointment other than when I say "ouch there goes $20" lol. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

P.S. my LM317T might start working again, But I don't think it will there was toast smell coming from it! and I ripped it off the board lol...I also managed to spare the Heatsinks and brackets, the stars pried right off the HS with a screw driver.

 

[IsaacHayes]

Unless the LM317T was so hot it failed and then caused your luxes to fry and overload the PSU...

Oh yeah, I can understand the $$ aspect. This past 12 months have cost me over $3,000 in total wasted money, the only reason I can think of why is bad luck..

I'm kind of interested in one or two of your fried lux's. What about the ones that were DOA? why was that? I'd like to disasemble one under my microscope and see if I can't get it to half-way come back to life for at least just a minute or two..

Good idea about the fuseable link, but you'll need a fast blow fuse I'd imagine as just a brief second could kill a luxeon I assume. If you are ordering from future, I've heard you can get them to do 1st class mail which would be cheaper than the $9 for ups ground they charged me. They sent me the wrong part, then sent me the right one, and didn't refund shipping, so I ended up paying $18 in shipping for 2 luxeons... Also they charge tax which several people on here have tried to explain to them that that is wrong but... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif

Not so sure if a Side emitter would be optimal for people to see. A lambertion HD seems plenty bright in all directions except underneath of course. You might try putting a plastic diffuser over it, which would really catch attention, and look nicer.
I suggest this: A HD with a 35mm white opaque film canister over the top of it. Should be very bright and look cool! I'd ask at a film proccesing place like wallgreens or somewhere if they have any extra in the trash they'd give you for free. Perhaps a green luxeon would look neat up there, unless they would think it's a green light and run you over! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Keep on truckin man! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Justintoxicated]

[ QUOTE ]
IsaacHayes said:
Unless the LM317T was so hot it failed and then caused your luxes to fry and overload the PSU...

Oh yeah, I can understand the $$ aspect. This past 12 months have cost me over $3,000 in total wasted money, the only reason I can think of why is bad luck..

I'm kind of interested in one or two of your fried lux's. What about the ones that were DOA? why was that? I'd like to disasemble one under my microscope and see if I can't get it to half-way come back to life for at least just a minute or two..

Good idea about the fuseable link, but you'll need a fast blow fuse I'd imagine as just a brief second could kill a luxeon I assume. If you are ordering from future, I've heard you can get them to do 1st class mail which would be cheaper than the $9 for ups ground they charged me. They sent me the wrong part, then sent me the right one, and didn't refund shipping, so I ended up paying $18 in shipping for 2 luxeons... Also they charge tax which several people on here have tried to explain to them that that is wrong but... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif

Not so sure if a Side emitter would be optimal for people to see. A lambertion HD seems plenty bright in all directions except underneath of course. You might try putting a plastic diffuser over it, which would really catch attention, and look nicer.
I suggest this: A HD with a 35mm white opaque film canister over the top of it. Should be very bright and look cool! I'd ask at a film proccesing place like wallgreens or somewhere if they have any extra in the trash they'd give you for free.

Keep on truckin man! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

I had no DOA luxeons, it was a DOA component (LM317HVT) that origionally killed the first 2 stars. It just blew up in the first couple minutes..(then I decided to test the circuit on another cyan one and fried that one too)...Yea I dunno why future charges tax, but their prices are great even after shipping and tax...But I try to order in bulk, at least 5 or 6 leds and heatsinks.

I'd like to see some light on the ground from the whip which is about 7 feet tall + the height of the ATV. You sure a HD would still be the best bet? I wanna be able to turn it on as a saftey device so I don't get run over by a dune buggy (while the ATV is OFF), and light up some of the sand around me. The film canister is an interesting idea too!

 

[IsaacHayes]

Well, I'm not sure that a SE will cast any light on the ground either. The viewing angle on the SE would have to be directly parrallel to it. Meaning you got to be the exact height of it or it won't appear bright from a distance. A HD in a film cansiter, would allow some light to diffuse downwards towards you too. Not sure how you are mounting it, up or down. If you mount a HD facing downwards you could put the film cansiter over it, with the bottom cut off, so it's just a hollow tube. That way the led will shine through the tube down on you and the ground, and the tube will light up brightly for a nice marker that people can see from a far. I think that's your best bet!

 

[evan9162]

I'm quite suprised that you managed to blow up an LM317. The only way you can really do that is to try to drop too much voltage, or pump current into the output pin.

National Semiconductor's LM317s are thermally limited (can't overheat them), current limited (can't pump too much current through them), power dissipation limited, and work fine for open and short circuits.

I wouldn't use an SE for anything that will not be under some kind of protective cover. The lens on an SE is very fragile, and will chip/shatter/collapse if it is bumped into anything. It should provide the illumination you're after though.

I would second using a high dome in a clear/milky film canister, or inside a frosted acrylic tube.

 

[kakster]

Those dead luxeons still have a use, so dont just throw em in the bin. Send them to CPF member Doug S, he dissects them and reports back anything interesting.

 

[Justintoxicated]

I need to keep at least one for a template in makeing new brackets. Im going to order some more..

I have NO idea how the LM317T fried. Other than something may have grounded out, but its impossible the Vout ont he LM317T touched ANYTHING, it is COMPLEATLY isolated including the HS that was isolated with rubber from its neighboring LM317T. I also don't think It was dropping too much volts, it was only droping 10.9-7 3.1V @ .875 amps...I think im going to run the LM317T's at .875amps and install a quick blow fuse from ratchack for $4 with inline holder...The fuse will blow at 1 amp.

Do you guys think a .5 amp quick blow fuse would protect the 1 watt stars that the line is running at 3.45 amps? I know they would not like .5 amps, but if that LM317T was to blow the current would probably jump to over an amp. WOuld this help at all Or would I just be wasting my time with a .5 amp fast acting fuse?

Can I re-use the star boards? I pulled the Emitter off (well the top of it then the bottem lol) and it appears I could save a buck and re-use the board? Or is it not worth it?

Also, looking at the emitters, they look exactly the same as when they were new. What exactly BLOWS in an LED when it fries?