I want a Titanium light!

[carrot]

I would like to note that some high end aluminum lights, like Surefire, are coated for better electrical conductivity on the threads and contact points with ChemKote or similar.

 

[run4jc]

There are not many 1xAA titanium lights out there...

My unconditionnal vote goes to the Haiku. I've got the "old" XR-E version in BB, the cool white XP-G and I fear I also must have the warm one... :crazy: :cool:

I think if you are going to get a titanium light it needs to be a McGizmo.

Just sayin...

+1 :twothumbs

 

[Mark Mck]

The Quark Ti mini CR2 and 123 are both great lights. They are great EDC lights and are easy to use. They would be a good starting point. The Haiku XP-G is an awesome light but is more expensive. It does not get much better than the Haiku IMHO.:thumbsup:

 

[DUMDUM]

We at Peak have a few TI lights. AAA(Eiger) AA(Mach3) CR(Rainer TI)
Check them out
Bob

 

[artec540]

Unfortunately it's not titanium but your quandary over AA vs CR123 and the fact that you have already used and liked jetbeams in the past makes me think that you might like teh jetbeam rrt-0

I agree that the RRT 0 is a great light. I find the adjustment extremely convenient, especially because you can set the level before turning it on. I was a bit disappointed with the Volere though it is Ti and is very nicely made.

 

[notsofast]

My experience with Quark lights left me feeling that the aluminum versions had much smoother thread action.

I found the same with ITP also.

 

[MR.A]

is it a real light from Titanium??? then it has to be very light and very strong!

But as i know Titanium it does not have a good relationship with the temperature. So easily you can burn an LED.

These Ti lights are very heavy like a big stone. Titanium? I dont think so.

 

[RepProdigious]

is it a real light from Titanium??? then it has to be very light and very strong!

Ti is actually heavier than Alu and weaker than proper steel... Its just a nice in-between metal, worst of both worlds kind of thing ;)

 

[Mark Mck]

Ti does have less heat conduction than does Aluminum and Stainless Steel. Ti is "softer" and more apt to be scratched than SS but it is not "weaker" than SS. The yield point of Ti is greater than that of SS. I think Ti is a great metal for fabrication of a flashlight as long as the temperature concerns are addressed in the design, be it with a feedback mechanism to step down output to minimize high temps or with a well designed heat sink or both. My Haiku heats up very little as designed and stands as a fine example of flashlight design and development.:thumbsup:

 

[Matt7337]

The only two titanium lights that I own are an RA Clicky Ti (probably too expensive/hard to find to be suitable for you) and a Bitz Ti. I love both of them, but the Bitz does have heatsinking issues. AFAIK it's a hard driven light, and in high mode the head really heats up to an uncomfortable temperature after about 10-15 minutes. It's a great pocket light despite this - it's light, strong, bright, floody, multimode, has a strong clip and has the added benefit of a tritium vial slot in the tail. My Bitz Ti gets a lot of use for all these reasons.

I think my next purchase is going to be a Titanium D10 from Jeff :grin2:

 

[Matt7337]

Great value for money....... And also available in AA format (comp. with li-ion).

Is that a Titanum Quark? If so, which one? I like the lanyard with dogclip and trit vial that you've got on it too :)

 

[RepProdigious]

Yup, its my completely clean Quark 123 lego (no serial/type indication whatever), brushed and then heat treated. The lanyard came from my sony camera. I like it this way :twothumbs

In AA it looks quite similar, just a bit longer (looks sleeker) but i like the chubby look on 123 lights..... that and my girlfriend won't steal 123 cells to put them in remotes and such (could end badly with 14500 cells :poof: )

 

[Matt7337]

Got specs on that somewhere, or details of what modular parts are in it? Gorgeous light! :thumbsup:

 

[Tally-ho]

Xeno Cube Ti (probably hard to find now because it was a limited edition):

Product Specification:
Emitter: CREE®, XP-G 1B R5, Coulor Temperature:1B, 6500~7000, Cool White.
Max output(OTF): 205 lumens/luminous flux@ max 800mA, using Li-ion battery 14500.

(can use any AA size battery--one way battery (a dry cell, Alkaline) and rechargeable battery (Ni-Cd,Ni-MH,14500 Li-ion,LiFePO4 battery)).

 

[jblackwood]

My experience with Quark lights left me feeling that the aluminum versions had much smoother thread action.

I found the same with ITP also.

There are different grades of Titanium. I have Ti lights from three different makers: 4sevens, Lummi, and McGizmo. My 4sevens lights' threads (I have two) are the hardest to turn, even after several rounds of sanding and applying copious amounts of lubrication. My Lummi Wee is the next easiest to turn, just a little harder to mate than aluminum but I think that's more a function of how the threads were machined that the material from which they were cut. My McGizmo lights (again, I have two) are the easiest to turn out of all my Ti lights and that was without any cleaning, sanding, OR second or third applications of lubrication. They both rival smoothness and ease of use, as far as threads go, even when I compare them to my Al lights! Heck, they rival ease of use with User Interface (UI) as well, but that's not the subject of this thread.

Go for a McGizmo, you'll never carry anything else!

 

[Incidentalist]

Bar none, the JHanko threads are the absolute smoothest Ti threads I've ever felt and I've felt a lot and from just about every maker mentioned in this thread.

Or just do away with threads altogether and get a Spy 007. :devil:

 

[RepProdigious]

Got specs on that somewhere, or details of what modular parts are in it? Gorgeous light! :thumbsup:

Well, this aint no rocket science....

Parts; Head, body, tail and some cells

Lego is quite a bit more expensive than buying the complete light but its still worth it imho :hitit:

Specs on the light are readily available on 4sevens website and depend on your choices; high or low voltage head, tactical or not. Mine has the parts linked above..... Its a great little light!

 

[Hellbore]

Just an update:

I still want a high-end light at some point, but for now, I couldn't resist the price so I got a Quark Mini Titanium 123!

It's very nice, like a little piece of jewelry, I like it and I like that it starts out Low, then goes Medium, then High.

My Jetbeam C-LE v2 has been an excellent pocket light for a couple years now but I think the Quark is going to replace it now :)

 

[Hellbore]

Another update:

I ordered a Quark Mini Titanium AA and it's pretty cool, especially running on a 14500!

However... This may sound really picky, but, there is a fleck of white stuff on the INSIDE of the lens! :(

There's no easy way to disassemble the head to clean the inside of the lens is there?

I guess I just expected a relatively expensive flashlight to be "perfect"...

Is it worth trying to exchange it?

 

[Monocrom]

Is it worth trying to exchange it?

If it is producing a beam that is less than ideal, then yes; it's worth exchanging.