If you could design a led flashlight.

[dosei-45]

1.250" diameter head/bezel, 1" body diameter
Replaceable/interchangeable bezels (smooth & scalloped)
Diffuser Bezel included (like on the EagleTac T20C2 MKII)
1x 18650 battery
User replaceable/interchangeable LED modules and heads (optional 1.375" & 1.500" diameter heads & matching modules)
Indexable output ring, 12 levels (0.1%, 0.2%, 1%, 2%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 40%, 60%, 80%, 100%)
Removable rubber grip ring and tail-stand ring (like on the EagleTac T20C2 MKII)
Grip ring would NOT be an "anti-roll" ring
Pocket clip like on the Surefire Kroma (pocket clip would serve as "anti-roll" device)
Fully stabilized/regulated/protected (like the Armytek Predator)
Trapezoidal (Acme) threads
Forward clicky tailcap switch with momentary on, dual switch set-up like Klarus XT10 (secondary switch for strobe)
Fully shock-protected/isolated electronics/circuit boards (like Surefire weapon lights)
Redundant electronics/circuits where possible (like the Armytek Predator)
Lanyard (the pocket clip would have a lanyard attachment point)

 

[yliu]

Something like the Ledlenser X21, but with 7 XMLs, and Li-ion battery pack.

 

[Sparky's Magic]

2 'lights actually:

1 Malkoff MD2 as is. With a 3 stage tailcap. McClicky, perhaps. :thumbsup:

2 HDS As is but with 1 extra level (to give another slightly higher medium); Hi CRI, and squeezing out a few extra lumens... say about 170Lu. on burst. This, for me, would be the ultimate Flashlight.

 

[Obijuan Kenobe]

PD-LunaSol20...modified with a three level XML flood (driver operated on first position of piston, memory for last mode when twisted on), and flood (last level used) plus reflector (at full power) on 2nd position/full twist on, with the XPG reflector set for 1.2A or so.

Actually, this is not far off from run4jc's suggestion. Something that had both flood and throw which you could combine or use independently...just not quite as sophisticated as the TriV, which of course is a killer light.

obi

 

[etherealshade]

I'd love to see a Tri-V or something very similar, but reprogrammable with a smartphone via bluetooth (and maybe computer + usb as well). Because, y'know, they're not expensive enough already.

 

[DuncanHynes]

2200 Lumens on a AA that lasts 12 HOURS on HIGH, with NO heat buildup...and adjust the modes with my MIND...Yesssss, Loook into my eyes...:duh2:

 

[DuncanHynes]

1.250" diameter head/bezel, 1" body diameter
Replaceable/interchangeable bezels (smooth & scalloped)
Diffuser Bezel included (like on the EagleTac T20C2 MKII)
1x 18650 battery
User replaceable/interchangeable LED modules and heads (optional 1.375" & 1.500" diameter heads & matching modules)
Indexable output ring (.1%, .2%, 1%, 2%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 40%, 60%, 80%, 100%)
Removable rubber grip ring and tail-stand ring (like on the EagleTac T20C2 MKII)
Grip ring would NOT be an "anti-roll" ring
Pocket clip like on the Surefire Kroma (pocket clip would serve as "anti-roll" device)
Fully stabilized/regulated/protected (like the Armytek Predator)
Trapezoidal threads
Forward clicky tailcap switch with momentary, dual switch set-up like Klarus XT10 (secondary switch for strobe)
Fully shock-protected/isolated electronics/circuit boards (like Surefire weapon lights)
Redundant electronics/circuits where possible (like the Armytek Predator)
Lanyard & lanyard ring like older Surefires (or possibly make the pocket clip have a lanyard attachment point)

Dude. You're not asking for alot. Just carry 20 lights and you're good! Don't forget the mind control!:duh2: Good ideas though! (pocket clip having attachment point)

 

[luceat lux vestra]

2200 Lumens on a AA that lasts 12 HOURS on HIGH, with NO heat buildup...and adjust the modes with my MIND...Yesssss, Loook into my eyes...:duh2:

I think I know what you want 3xXML emitters about 180 AA batteries and a heat sink the size of an M1 Abrams.....Also you always control a light with your mind, Your 'Mind' sends a signal a then your thumb moves causing the light to change modes..... I'm a genius

 

[dosei-45]

Dude. You're not asking for alot. Just carry 20 lights and you're good! Don't forget the mind control!:duh2: Good ideas though! (pocket clip having attachment point)

...everything I'm wanting is stuff that has already been done, just not combined in a "perfect light" yet. I'm just combine the "best" design elements from a handful of manufacturers/designers and adding just a teeny tiny little bit of my own to it...kinda like what Gaston Glock did.

(and I'm not a fan of it reading my mind...dang thing would be trying to wolf-whistle and other silly stuff)

 

[sunny_nites]

I like the idea earlier in the thread about the light built into the Iphone. Works for cameras and cam corders, why not flashlights?

I've found that the best light to have is the one you have on you. Which usually turns out to be what ever is on my key chain or in my pocket. I really like the Chimera form factor, ie flat, square and powered by a lipo battery. Don't like the price or the 2 year plus wait time for one, though!

I've thought many times of making my own and actually have made four lights with similar form factors and my own spin on them but in plastic. Would really need to be able to sell some to make it worth the price of having aluminum or TI machined.

Still, just can't seem to let the idea go...

 

[jph]

I would like a light with a variable color output. Turn it on and it's blue, twist the head and it changes through the spectrum to purple, red, orange, yellow, green.
I don't think it would be very practicable, but it would be pretty neat.

 

[joe1512]

I'd want an actual GOOD flood to throw light. Like a mini Led Lensor X21, except with 3 XR-Es lasest rev bin, powered by 1 or maybe 2 18650s side by side. Would be great for close up work without an annoying hotspot, but retains capability to have decent throw as needed.

 

[luceat lux vestra]

I'd want an actual GOOD flood to throw light. Like a mini Led Lensor X21, except with 3 XR-Es lasest rev bin, powered by 1 or maybe 2 18650s side by side. Would be great for close up work without an annoying hotspot, but retains capability to have decent throw as needed.

I know what you mean, flood to throw are very useful but most are a poor beam at flood or throw. Someone needs to come up with a more compact and higher quality flood to throw.

 

[Gumboot]

Like to see a 1xAA HDS Rotary. Foreward clicky would be nice but not necessary and the regular UI modes could be eliminated. Keep it simple. Hds quality with at a lower cost. Maybe use a battery system similar to the new Zebralight SC80 using a single AA or CR123A. That would be nice!

 

[the_guy_with_no_name]

Right now, it has to be the Torpedo as my #1 choice...

Maybe after that, something like this would be a cool tool for my pocket.

Kind of a combination of DEFT + Zebralight,
a little more compact, using a single 18650
and under 5inches.

Would be nice to own, but a hell'v'a job to make.

tgwnn

 

[eh4]

sunny nites
First make the cell phone waterproof and able to withstand a pounding, and then give it a dedicated button for instant lighting use... and some sort of battery allocation so the phone can't rob the light and vice versa.

I'd pretty much make an HDS, but probably not as well. Although I am disappointed that there isn't a disintegration beam function or any sign of a clean fusion based power supply.
Deep down inside what we really want is a light saber, with the ability to tune the frequency, throw/flood and ratio of conflagration/illumination. Surely that's not asking too much in the big scheme of things.

Realistically, I'd like something very much like HDS with an AA/CR123 conversion body like Zebralight has come out with, and engineered to stay intact until the user chooses to upgrade the LED, and then by design be very simple and straightforward for any end user to upgrade at home... any end user that can replace a halogen work light bulb without getting grease on the bulb anyways, don't see any way to design away the need for some precision and hygiene.

 

[RocketTomato]

I would make a a hybrid of two of my favorite lights; a Lunasol 20and a Sunwayman V10 R.

First stage would be flood and the second stage would add in the throw, similar to the way the LS20 works but then the control ring in the head could be used to adjust the intensity of each stage.

If we ever get variable tint LEDs, I would add a second control ring in the tail cap to select tint.

 

[WmArnold1]

I agree with Derek Dean and others; My perfect lights are here very close to already being in existence. So, I'm putting on my asbestos skivvies and sharing the lights I personally like:

For EDC; I like the ThruNite Neutron XML with a 14500 rechargeable cell for $60 and change because it puts 300 lumens in my pocket. Yes, we can debate brands and UI's until we're blue in the face; but this is a great price/performance/size benchmark.

For the glove-box; I like the ThruNite Scorpion V2 with Turbo Head and cr123 primaries for around $150 because I can use 660 lumens to drive without headlights for over an hour, or use it as a camp light if I should ever get stranded in sub-zero weather.

For my wife, kids, nightstand, laying on several tables around the house, and gift to non-flashaholic friends; I like the Zebralight Q50 for a price promised to be around $100 because it's a 800/500 lumen light that uses four common AA batteries.

See Q50 promo pix at: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=287481151267333&set=pu.141186002563516&type=1&theater

Okay, even if I had *all* of those sensible lights, I'd still fantasize about the 4-Sevens Maelstrom s18 or some other way I could hunt/patrol with thousands of lumens riding on my hip. But, that simply isn't possible with today's LED emitters because they give off too much heat. Indeed; note that even though the great SSL-90 can be pushed to 2250 lumens, 4-Sevens had to fall back into the 900 lumen XM-L zone to keep their big S18 from exceeding 120 degrees Fahrenheit!

Thankfully though, there will always be flashaholics who push the sensibility envelope and I sincerely admire folks like Mash.M because he built a 130 watt (9000 lumen!) work-light based on a single CSM-360 (i.e; four SSL-90's on a single die) emitter. And, the only way he could accomplish that was with a Jensen carrying-case, huge heat-sink, and fans! Technically, this is hall-of-fame awesome tho!

See Mash.M special build at: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?312593-Portable-Working-Light-with-one-CSM-360

Sidebar: Note that the Cree XM-L emitter is spec'd at 91 lumens per watt and that's only 27% of the theoretical limit of 330 lumens per watt, give or take. The other 73% must be dissipated to keep your expensive LED from self-destructing. Subsequently, even though the SSL-90 can be driven up to 130 watts, only so much energy can be naturally dissipated without resorting to bulky heat-sinks, fans, liquid cooling systems, etc. The bottom line being that max OTF lumens will remain more a function of heat dissipation abilities than anything else until the next generation of LEDs changes that…

So, finally addressing the original question at hand; I will not challenge today's state-of-the-art artisans other than to suggest that every flashlight be made with some kind of battery meter so I can stop guessing where I am within the discharge cycle.

 

[Illuminat3]

I would like a light with a variable color output. Turn it on and it's blue, twist the head and it changes through the spectrum to purple, red, orange, yellow, green.
I don't think it would be very practicable, but it would be pretty neat.

Yeah, two variable control rings. One for brightness the other for color.

 

[Overclocker]

take a spark SL6, give it zebralight sc600 driver, then make the tail switch momentary on at the programmed brightness level.

perfect.