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Sold/Expired INQUIRY: Anyone offering a Boring Service in AUSTRALIA ?

tazambo

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jul 25, 2006
Messages
151
Location
Tasmania, Australia
Hi Guys,

I'm wondering if anyone in Oz can / wants to bore Surefire bodies.
(Or knows someone who does (overseas postage is a killer)).

I'd be interested in possibly having 3 or 4 x (2x123 length e series bodies) done to fit 17670's and a 9P and a C3 to fit 18500's, (if the price and especially the quality was right.

I'm going to do some asking around here at some local machine shops...
Will let you all know what I find.

Regards
Dave

P.S. my apologises if this is in the wrong section.
 
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Hi tazambo.
I can bore (ask my wife boom-tish). PM me with details. The main issue would be whether there is enough metal in the wall of the bodies you nominate to accept the widening. And I agree postage O/S sucks big time.
 
Dave,

I recently bought a 9P clone from an Aussie seller who'd had it bored out to accept 18500 cells. I'll shoot him a PM to see if he can help you.


As mentioned I got a 9P clone bored at at a little engineering place here in central Victoria. It cost $15 and the bloke did a pretty good job. I think most engineering places would do it for a similar price.
 
Hi tazambo.
I can bore (ask my wife boom-tish). PM me with details. The main issue would be whether there is enough metal in the wall of the bodies you nominate to accept the widening. And I agree postage O/S sucks big time.

What about tri/quad boring on D mags??

I am in sydney myself and it would be great if you can do some boring on mags for me!!
 
Hi Guys,

3 of you have bought stuff off me, CPF is such a great resource.... (he says wiping away the tears of joy).

David ( ICUDoc ),
Are you willing to become an Aussie boring service?
What would your price/s be?

Joel ( harddrive )
$15 sounds good, I will have to ask about down here?
Was that a simple drill all the way through, see me reasoning below?
Would the wall thickness / tolerance be less on an e series body???

James ( UnderTheWeepingMoon ),
Interested to hear, the more options the better, but see above and below.


Just to add to the info in this thread and answer David's question about wall thickness:

I have 1 x AW-17670 cell that fits into an L4 body. It is tight at the tail end but just fits.
I have 1 other L4 body and an E2DL body that the cells will slide 9/10 of the way into.
I'd guess this is a slightly smaller than normal 17670 cell?

All my AW cells are the newer black cells with silver stickers removed.

I have 5 other AW-17670 cells that will slide in 5/6 of the way to this first L4 body.
These cells will slide only 3/4 of the way into the other 2 bodies.
Thus they have a slightly tighter internal tail-end (the opening at the head appears to be the same size).

Thus they only need the tail-end of the body widened to the same diameter that already exists at the head-end.
I can't measure the current head-end or tail-end diameters but I'd suggest the tail-end only needs widening by about 0.5 - 0.75 mm
The main problem would be the ring of metal at the tail end, as e-series bodies only load batteries from the head-end.
I don't believe you can simply drill all the way through.

I was thinking this might be something I could maybe do with at Dremel tool (as I happen to have one) but I haven't tried yet. I also remember reading that someone put sandpaper on the end of some wooden dowel and used a drill. This took them 30+ minutes, thus $15 a body sounds very good.

Any thoughts?

Regards
Dave
 
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Hi Dave

The 9P body was bored straight through. I gave the bloke my 18500 batteries and he bored the tube to fit them. The thinnest part on a 9P/6P body is under the o-ring at the tail end. He said there was not a lot of metal there play with but was enough.

The E series bodies are a little different though with the closed lip thing at the tail end. I have never seen how people get around that issue when boring those bodies for 17670. If you have a engineering place near by I would drop in with the light and battery and explain what you are trying to do. They should be able to tell you if it can be done or not.

I thought about using a dremel on mine at first but was glad I got it done properly in the end.

Cheers
 
IDOC, PM replied to.
I feel like I'm going to send you one of my children.

Harddrive, yes the e-series would seem to require a more technical approach than the P,C,M,etc series.
You have to come in from the head-end, and you must stop at the metal ring as the tail threads are actually narrower than the internal diameter.
Accuracy is the key.

Regards
Dave
 
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I was thinking this might be something I could maybe do with at Dremel tool (as I happen to have one) but I haven't tried yet. I also remember reading that someone put sandpaper on the end of some wooden dowel and used a drill. This took them 30+ minutes, thus $15 a body sounds very good.

Any thoughts?

I just used a round file to knock off the slight raised section at the tail of my L4 to allow it to take 17670's. As you've said it isn't much, only 0.5mm on the diameter or so.


It's still a bit of tight fit though as I got bored as soon as I could force it in. Boring is definitely the better option.
 
ICUDoc,

You did buy my E1L and it's good to know she loves her new home.

I wasn't into SF lego then, so, I sold the whole package.
I decided I wanted the shorter factor again, thus, I just last week received a mint E1L body from ROK, who's located in South Korea. I'm using it with my new NiteCore Extreme Infinity.

It will be in the mail tomorrow.

Regards
Dave
 
Well I received my L4 tube back today.
Talk about a VERY NICE job.

I can highly recommend the work done by ICUDoc.
David, you will have a new PM very shortly

Regards
Dave
 
Thanks Dave. Enjoy but beware- all your patients will have constricted pupils if you use that thing! Even the dead ones....
 
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