cyberspyder
Enlightened
Took mine apart to epoxy the interior, as the lens fell off. Note to people using the freeze and pop method...compress the contact spring on the head a couple of times under water in order to fill it up completely...also, most of the time the LED will break off, so be prepared to replace the LED (with a GS ).
Uh oh...LED got snapped off at the base...
The parts (Reflector, LED, Driver board, Contact spring, Contact, Plastic insulator cap, Tailcap, Body, Battery)
Sanded the contact flat and semi-polished it with some wet/dry sandpaper
Since the prongs of the dead LED was blocking the holes, an easier way to get rid of it was to ignore it entirely. Some 24 gauge stranded wire soldered onto the dead legs on the back of the board that will be connected to the new GS.
Depression filed by an Arc AAA (bad picture I know...)! Hard Anodizing does live up to it's reputation...took some time, but the knurling manage to wear down enough material for the wires to slip through.
Completed head assembly (missing epoxy though). Does anyone know if I can solder Stainless Steel to copper?
Brendan
Uh oh...LED got snapped off at the base...
The parts (Reflector, LED, Driver board, Contact spring, Contact, Plastic insulator cap, Tailcap, Body, Battery)
Sanded the contact flat and semi-polished it with some wet/dry sandpaper
Since the prongs of the dead LED was blocking the holes, an easier way to get rid of it was to ignore it entirely. Some 24 gauge stranded wire soldered onto the dead legs on the back of the board that will be connected to the new GS.
Depression filed by an Arc AAA (bad picture I know...)! Hard Anodizing does live up to it's reputation...took some time, but the knurling manage to wear down enough material for the wires to slip through.
Completed head assembly (missing epoxy though). Does anyone know if I can solder Stainless Steel to copper?
Brendan