brightnorm
Flashaholic
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2001
- Messages
- 7,161
Love your Quark but wish it had a reliable lock-out? That was my dilemma, but I found a way to do it by creating a Quenix, or if you prefer, a Fark.
Even though some Quark tailpieces are anodized, they don't provide reliable lockout because of the non-anodized bodies. For secure lockout both parts must be anodized. The answer was to fit anodized Quark tailpieces (about 60% of mine are anodized) to Fenix bodies.
I have a bunch of Quarks 123x2 XP-E R2's, Fenix PD3-Q5's, Fenix PD30-Q5's, and the latest Fenix PD30-R2. All the Fenix's have different bodies with subtly different threads. Fenix, like Quark, has phased out or is phasing out their XP-E R2's in favor of XP-G R4's. (R5's for Quark).
After hours of mix-and-match I discovered one combination that works perfectly (I've only done this with Quark 2x123 heads including the Quark Turbo). Here is the recipe:
Fenix 123x2 body (must be PD30-R2 body. No other Fenix 123x2 body will work)
Quark head or Turbo head
Quark anodized tailpiece.
The Quark head fits perfectly. The Quark tailpiece screws in just enough to enough cover the Fenix O-ring and make it waterproof (I tested it) but for good measure I added an additional thin O-ring above it (toward head). When the tailpiece is screwed in it wedges the 2nd O-ring between itself and the body so that approx 1/2 of the O-ring is visible, but firnly stable. This works very well, and I tested it by many "screwings" and "un-screwings".
The beauty of this combination is that in addition to lock-out, you keep the Quark tailpiece (not the shaky-standing Fenix tailpiece) and Quark head.
Voila, your new Fark/Quenix.
Brightnorm
Even though some Quark tailpieces are anodized, they don't provide reliable lockout because of the non-anodized bodies. For secure lockout both parts must be anodized. The answer was to fit anodized Quark tailpieces (about 60% of mine are anodized) to Fenix bodies.
I have a bunch of Quarks 123x2 XP-E R2's, Fenix PD3-Q5's, Fenix PD30-Q5's, and the latest Fenix PD30-R2. All the Fenix's have different bodies with subtly different threads. Fenix, like Quark, has phased out or is phasing out their XP-E R2's in favor of XP-G R4's. (R5's for Quark).
After hours of mix-and-match I discovered one combination that works perfectly (I've only done this with Quark 2x123 heads including the Quark Turbo). Here is the recipe:
Fenix 123x2 body (must be PD30-R2 body. No other Fenix 123x2 body will work)
Quark head or Turbo head
Quark anodized tailpiece.
The Quark head fits perfectly. The Quark tailpiece screws in just enough to enough cover the Fenix O-ring and make it waterproof (I tested it) but for good measure I added an additional thin O-ring above it (toward head). When the tailpiece is screwed in it wedges the 2nd O-ring between itself and the body so that approx 1/2 of the O-ring is visible, but firnly stable. This works very well, and I tested it by many "screwings" and "un-screwings".
The beauty of this combination is that in addition to lock-out, you keep the Quark tailpiece (not the shaky-standing Fenix tailpiece) and Quark head.
Voila, your new Fark/Quenix.
Brightnorm