Introducing "PTS2"

IsaacHayes

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By screwing into the head, I take it that the head doesn't screw down all the way on the body then? But by screwing on the HS into the head first this elminates the possibility of screwing the head onto the body and the body pushing up on the HS correct?

Reflectors don't get as much pressure on them from the lens either then right? If my leds weren't epoxied to my exsisting pts, I'd upgrade as my reflectors are sort of "oval" now from the pressure!!
 

modamag

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IsaacHayes: You first screw in the PTS2 into the head. Then the head to the body. The distance difference is 0.200" so it will barely make any difference on the light length. An as far as pressure on the reflector you can put as minimal amt as you want. That pressure is only used to prevent rattling.

Ledean: The next project is nothing related to flashlight. I want to build my own little monsterbot from scratch. Have to put those mill/lathe to work for something useful :D
 

Billson

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Jonathan,

In that case, I may just wait for the PQS. When will the shoppe start selling your heatsinks?

Can we substitute the McR20 for the IMS20. I'm not sure if there are differences in depth but I'm assuming they're at least the same size because they are both 20mm?
 

IsaacHayes

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I think the McR will fit, at least I think I've seen someone use those with the old PTS/PQS...
 

Billson

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I've seen some people use it but they didn't say if it the light had to be modified in any way.
 

markus_i

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Hi modamag,

thanks a lot for the drawings, they did indeed help. From what I can see, there's nothing wrong that a bit of epoxy won't cure :)

As I understand it, the only problem whith the optics (assuming hexagonal holders - the round holders are half a mm larger in dia. than the SO20s) would be that there is too much distance between the front glass and the optics so that the glass can't be used to hold down the optics?

In this case, the obligatory glow-powder/epoxy mix down inside the head can also hold down the optics (or at least the holders). I know that in this case I won't be able to exchange the LEDs if one of them goes bad (or better ones come out), but usually (i.e. so far) I seal my LED heads anyway.

See you at the sales thread - I'll just have to decide now how many PTS2s I'm going to need for one Maglite ;-)

Bye
Markus
 

Turbo_E

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just a suggestion, but why not machine some "fins" in the rear instead of a solid mass? or even in the front where the luxes are? this would reduce the weight and increase the surface area. it may increase the cooling capacity despite being in a sealed envioronment.
 

DonShock

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I think the idea was to increase the mass so it would be take longer to heat up from the LED's and to increase the surface area in contact with the Mag body/head to better transfer heat to the outer surfaces where it could be dissipated.
 

AdamW

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Oh, man.

You really need to build Perfect Quad Sink 2 for the K2.

That way you get even more of my cash!!!

Adam
 

n_den

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modamag said:
5. Threaded portion to screw down into the Mag head. This eliminates the necessity of tightening the lens retaining ring to compress the lens / reflector / LED. As an added bonus the threads will be able to compensate for the variation in the Mag bezel shoulder.
IMHO this addition is the greatest improvement for usability.

anybody know what the thread size is for the magd head?

n_den :)
 

n_den

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markus_i said:
modamag,

you set up the PTS2 for so20 reflectors. Nothing wrong with that, but I can't find the dimensions of these reflectors - and I'd like to use the 20 mm carclo optics (bigger choice in beam setup). So can you (or anyone else for that matter) answer me one of those questions:
- how high are the IMS 20mm reflectors?
- does the PTS2 work with 20mm Carclo optics with the hex holders?

Bye
Markus

don't know about the PTS2, but the PTS-D will work with the Carlco optics.

n_den :)
 

Amonra

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Will the PTS-2 work with the carclo tri-optics ? or they will not fit ?
 

modamag

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I don't have any carclo optic but PTS2 have more flexability than the PTS in term of single optic use.

As long as your optic diameter is withing the star profile then you can probably use it.
The reason I say this is because PTS give you an addition vertical adjustment of +/- 0.100" due to the threading design and the bezel thread. If you

If you're using cluster (tri-optic / quad-optic / etc) you have to make sure the optic clears the channel because the side wall of the stars have been raised to improved heat transfer capability.

As for the K2 design, if anyone can sell me one K2, then I can make the design for the quad sink. I'm on the signup list but dunno if when it will materialize.
 

idleprocess

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Turbo_E said:
just a suggestion, but why not machine some "fins" in the rear instead of a solid mass? or even in the front where the luxes are? this would reduce the weight and increase the surface area. it may increase the cooling capacity despite being in a sealed envioronment.
Fins are only useful on the exterior or in a location where there is airflow to conduct the heat away. Interior finning will make heat transfer worse because you lose mass (less material to absorb the heat) and potentially reduce the contact surface area (less efficient thermal transfer from your internal heat spreader to the actual heatsink - the flashlight body).
 

Sway

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The 20mm Khatod reflectors work just fine but the 20mm optics are too short and do not meet the lens, you will have to glue them in place.

Hope this helps :)

Later
Kelly
 

Walt175

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Has anyone ever posted how to install one of these? I think I'm ready to try my first multi-emitter light, but don't know how to mount this into the head. :confused:
 

Sway

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Walt175 said:
Has anyone ever posted how to install one of these? I think I'm ready to try my first multi-emitter light, but don't know how to mount this into the head. :confused:

Hi Walt,

Try this thread, it's shows the old style PTS but it should help :)

Later
Kelly
 
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