Is Armytek a gamble?

[gunga]

Very passionate responses in this thread. Still seems like a bit of gamble to me but within reason. Worth the risk if you have a reputable dealer or buy directly and you really want the unique features.

 

[Tachead]

Very passionate responses in this thread. Still seems like a bit of gamble to me but within reason. Worth the risk if you have a reputable dealer or buy directly and you really want the unique features.

That's is what really made me decide to try them(even though I was moderately cautious due to some of their past reputation). They offer some features that no one else does.

Where else can you get a light that is this small and puts out 1580 OTF lumens and can hold it right down to 3.0V, has such a great UI with so many modes, can run on 2 x CR123a, 16340, 18350, 16650, 18650, etc. protected or unprotected, flat top or button top, has a sapphire and AR coated glass lens to protect the acrylic optic from scratches, has very durable and grippy anodizing, has a deep carry pocket clip, has duel o-rings on all joints and a high drop and impact resistance, and it also has different cell bodies, a magnetic or non-magnetic tailcap, and all different sizes of cases available and sold separately. They also have very little tint variation unlike some other companies.

It's my new favorite EDC and knowing that if anything goes wrong for 10 years they will replace it(and even pay the return shipping), I don't regret my decision to try Armytek and don't think it was too big of a gamble.

Next to an Eagletac D25C Nichia 219 for size comparison.

 

[eraursls1984]

It was at least 2 years ago if you were being honest because you posted this on December 19 2015... They contacted me 1.5 years ago. That was about a year after the initial contact that I made, which was ignored after a few emails back and forth.

You seem to be holding quite the grudge considering they did offer to replace your light(multiple times by the sound of it Nope, just once.)

In the last couple of years It was less than 2 years ago if you're honest, at least they didn't offer that option to me a year and a half ago, they have opened a North American office to speed up warranty turn around time

The only reason why I didn't have them replace it the ONE time they offered, about a year after I first tried to get it replaced, is because at that point my wife was using it nightly. I would've had to purchase another light for her to use for the next 2-3 months. It would not have been a problem if it were only a week.

 

[eraursls1984]

...and you really want the unique features.

This is why I may eventually give them another shot. First I'd like to see far less reported issues though. They have great tint on their warm and Hi-CRI models, and an interesting UI that I want to try out. I almost bit when they had the spend $$$ get a free light (discontinued old stock) but they didn't offer any of the models I was interested in, warm or Hi-CRI.

 

[Woods Walker]

The Prime in XHP35. I don't see too many posted. Are you running it in 18350? Sometimes I carry the C1 if using 1XCR123 and even EDC as the UI is nice. Just put it on a preferred level and leave it. One click operation. I do wish they would make the newer ones in the Basic version. I prefer that as don't care for the flashing power switch light and don't do disco. I gotta check and see if they do however never pay full price so would wait for a sale.

 

[Tachead]

The only reason why I didn't have them replace it the ONE time they offered, about a year after I first tried to get it replaced, is because at that point my wife was using it nightly. I would've had to purchase another light for her to use for the next 2-3 months. It would not have been a problem if it were only a week.

So, the issue was 2.5 years ago. Like I said, a lot has changed since then. And, they did offer to replace it.

I am not sure when exactly they opened the Canadian office, I was simply stating some of the changes and improvements that have happened in the last couple of years since your issues.

Might I make a suggestion for you going forward? I suggest you adopt the "two is one and one is none" mentality. Any product can fail at any time, especially electronic products. If you don't want to have to worry about being without an important item then use redundancy as a safety net. If you would have had a backup headlamp for your wife then you would have had something to use in case of a problem. Many companies take an extended amount of time to deal with warranty issues. As I pointed out earlier in this thread, just a few months ago Nitecore wanted me to send my light back to China(which would have taken months), at my expense(with no reimbursement), before they would even consider fixing the problem or sending a replacement. And, they are one of the biggest and best selling flashlight companies in the world and have been open for many years more then Armytek. Armytek rush shipped me a new light, within 2 days, before I even sent the old one out, included some spare o-rings at no charge, and reimbursed me for the return shipping plus about $4 more.

So, things have changed in 2.5 years. I think you need to let the past go and maybe give them another chance. Or, hold onto your grudge and move on to other companies and products. The choice is your and I wish you the best:thumbsup:

 

[Tachead]

The Prime in XHP35. I don't see too many posted. Are you running it in 18350? Sometimes I carry the C1 if using 1XCR123 and even EDC as the UI is nice. Just put it on a preferred level and leave it. One click operation. I do wish they would make the newer ones in the Basic version. I prefer that as don't care for the flashing power switch light and don't do disco. I gotta check and see if they do however never pay full price so would wait for a sale.

Prime Pro V3 XHP35(Warm) to be exact. I am running the C1 body on it with IMR18350's(needs 7amp+ continuous cells to run the highest turbo) and the non-magnetic tailcap(shortens it by 7mm and lightens it by 13 grams) in that picture. I run it on the C2 body with unprotected Sanyo NCR18650GA's when I am in need of longer runtimes.

See, I much prefer the Pro UI. I like that I can click once for the last used mode, twice for the last used medium mode, three times for the last used turbo mode, or press and hold to go right to the lowest moonlight mode. You can also double click when on to go backwards through the modes which is nice. As for the battery indicator behind the switch, it is not a huge selling feature to me but, I like how it can be programed to always on to find the light in the dark. I also find that it works to warn me early when the battery is about half full(3.7Vish) if I just throw it on turbo for a second. I like that because I rotate batteries and like that when it blinks orange on turbo, they are at the perfect storage voltage. I dont care much about the strobe mode but, I do like the beacon(particularly the lower brightness beacon) because it can be used to mark the shoreline when out in a boat at night or mark your campsite when trekking in the dark to find later. It works well for both those uses.

 

[Tachead]

I forgot: The stainless steel bezel ring on the Pro also adds a lot of extra drop protection and looks nice.

 

[vadimax]

Is that a Russell axe like the Russell knives? is that it?

I would certainly never disparage your camping skills. But perhaps there is a fundamental difference in how we view the situation, and it's good to have a healthy, polite debate. And at least we both like good axes.

Are Gransfors really good? Once upon a time tried to buy one in Lithuania, but it had rust on the blade and I haven't found blacksmith's initials on it. Came to a conclusion it was fake.

 

[david57strat]

I have three of their lights, and have had zero issues with any of them. They just work, without fail. I would gladly buy more of their lights, and am considering some of their warm-tinted headlamps, at the moment.
Left to Right:
Dobermann XP-L, Predator V 2.5 (XP-G2 R5), and Barracuda XM-L2 T6 (warm..nice!)

 

[vadimax]

You may imagine that you live in the USSR. In that case Armytek's quality will be on par with everything back then A soviet customer had to tune and repair practically everything he could buy, starting from forks and ending with cars.

 

[iamlucky13]

Are Gransfors really good? Once upon a time tried to buy one in Lithuania, but it had rust on the blade and I haven't found blacksmith's initials on it. Came to a conclusion it was fake.

I don't own one, but out of curiosity once I looked up their reviews on Amazon. I'm honestly surprised how many reviews there are for such specialized products (few folks would spend more than $30 on a hatchet these days), and they're overwhelmingly positive - a tough steel alloy, a good temper, and a sharp edge go a long ways.

I guess they're the Surefire of axes.

 

[scs]

...

Where else can you get a light that is this small and puts out 1580 OTF lumens and can hold it right down to 3.0V...

Have you verified this with a runtime plot?

A TLF member tested his Predator Pro XHP 35 HI and posted a runtime plot, which shows the light cannot sustain constant max output. It steadily declines pretty quickly.

Whatever boost driver AT is using, based on the current findings by others, it is inferior to that of Eagtac's, which can hold 1000 OTF lumens for 45-50 minutes.

 

[Jomohr84]

I've only heard good things about Gransfors Bruks, but yeah, the price is up there. I am lucky to have gotten some vintage axes and hatchets from auctions over the years, some with very good steel. I have a nice vintage Plumb Boy Scout hatchet, and some very old and good double bit axes. If I was in need though, I would not be afraid to buy a Gransfors, they have a good rep.

 

[Tachead]

Have you verified this with a runtime plot?

A TLF member tested his Predator Pro XHP 35 HI and posted a runtime plot, which shows the light cannot sustain constant max output. It steadily declines pretty quickly.

Whatever boost driver AT is using, based on the current findings by others, it is inferior to that of Eagtac's, which can hold 1000 OTF lumens for 45-50 minutes.

No but, I plan on ordering a light meter very soon and building a light box or integrating sphere so I will when I get it. But, what I can say is that even right before it drops to the next mode at around 3.0V it still seams considerably brighter then my other verified ANSI lights 1000 lumenish lights. Whether it is perfectly flat regulated or not on it's highest turbo mode doesn't matter much to me. What does matters is that my Prime seams to put out considerably more lumens then any other light its size that I have tried. More then one that are much larger too. It put my Nitecore MH20nw to shame for instance and is much smaller with the 18350 tube on it. The MH20nw through farther obviously but, could not match the output.

The total output is only a small part of why I like this light so much though. One of the best things about it imo is the UI and mode selection. I have came to like it even more then my old favorite UI, Zebralight. I also really, really like it's extreme cell versatility. It gives me the option of running many different kinds of cells depending on what's on hand, the capacity I need, or the body size I want. It really is a great light.

I am debating getting a ZL SC600w MKIII HI right now. If I do, I will do a comparison thread of it and the Prime Pro including runtime plots.

As for Eagletac, I will wait till I run some runtime plots but, when it comes to build quality this Prime Pro is in a whole other league compared to the D25C I have sitting beside it. Pretty much every other aspect surpasses it as well imo. I am still and Eagletac fan however.

 

[scs]

Courtesy of mkr @ TLF...

 

[scs]

7 C ambient temp.
Red line with 2900 mAh cell.
Green line Pana Ga cell.
No flat regulation anywhere.

 

[Tachead]

7 C ambient temp.
Red line with 2900 mAh cell.
Green line Pana Ga cell.
No flat regulation anywhere.

Yeah, I have seen these before on TLF. I am not sure how they fit in here though? They are for turbo 2 I believe. What about Turbo 1? The other levels? Not many lights have flat regulation on their max brightness. Many use direct drive on their highest turbo to give the user the absolute most output that the battery can do. My MH20nw for instance was like this for instance.

Courtesy of maukka.

I don't see what is wrong with having a direct drive mode for the highest turbo. Its kind of nice really and will always give you a brighter output on a full cell. Comparing the other levels would be more interesting as it is nice if they are flat regulated. Like I said, I will do some graphs when I get my lightbox setup.

 

[Woods Walker]

Prime Pro V3 XHP35(Warm) to be exact. I am running the C1 body on it with IMR18350's(needs 7amp+ continuous cells to run the highest turbo) and the non-magnetic tailcap(shortens it by 7mm and lightens it by 13 grams) in that picture. I run it on the C2 body with unprotected Sanyo NCR18650GA's when I am in need of longer runtimes.

See, I much prefer the Pro UI. I like that I can click once for the last used mode, twice for the last used medium mode, three times for the last used turbo mode, or press and hold to go right to the lowest moonlight mode. You can also double click when on to go backwards through the modes which is nice. As for the battery indicator behind the switch, it is not a huge selling feature to me but, I like how it can be programed to always on to find the light in the dark. I also find that it works to warn me early when the battery is about half full(3.7Vish) if I just throw it on turbo for a second. I like that because I rotate batteries and like that when it blinks orange on turbo, they are at the perfect storage voltage. I dont care much about the strobe mode but, I do like the beacon(particularly the lower brightness beacon) because it can be used to mark the shoreline when out in a boat at night or mark your campsite when trekking in the dark to find later. It works well for both those uses. The stainless steel bezel ring on the Pro also adds a lot of drop protection.

Personal preference is never debatable as whatever works for the individual. I like the lego ability of the heads. A Prime A1/C1/2A can run 1xAA, 1X16340,1X18650,1X18350, 1XCR123 (never tested CR123 in the A2 head) 2XAA etc etc etc. So long as the voltage falls below the top line it will run all really really well. For example a C1 head seems to run 1XAA just as well compared to an A1 head and the opposite is also true. More info for the readers as odds are you know. Same for the Prime tails. All work with each other. Lego was also a pro of 4/7 back in the day though they charged more money for their parts than AT. I like to run the low voltage heads on 1X18650 if possible when packing the lights if using a 1X18650 headlamp. The low voltage head will run that forever. The basic UI also has a memory mode and just two click for Turbo.

 

[Tachead]

Oh and as for my Prime Pro, it is definitely not like these runtime graphs as it is still very bright right before it drops to the next level around 3.0Vish. How much it drops from 4.2V to 3ish, only a lightbox can tell for sure. But, I would say not a ton judging by my eyes(I know they are only so accurate).