Is my clicky going bad, user error or something else?

[Centerfinger]

I just got a used Surefire 6p with a z59 clicky and dereelight drop in. I headed up to the mountains this weekend and all was going fine with the light and it was performing perfectly.

All of the sudden it stopped working no light with either a momentary push or a click. I change the batteries thinking that was the issue and still no go. A little while later I gave it another try and voila all is good. After a few on/offs, dead again and I broke out another flashlight. I got home from the woods, put the SF on the mantle and didn't touch it until the next day. Gave it another try for kicks and it worked. After a few on/offs it was dead again.

I haven't really tore it down to look for contact issues and this is my first decent light, but it was disappointing.

Is this common issue?

Where should I start looking for problems?

Thanks

 

[bullfrog]

I'd assume its a contact issue between the dereelight p60 and surefire... Do you have any other lamps you can swap it out with to see if this is the issue? For contact issues on my Malkoffs, some tinfoil or a wire ring around the base did the trick - here is a thread with pics of my fix:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2784202

With that said, my experience w dereelight dropins is rather limited...

My two SF clicky switches that broke would not "click" - they were stuck. So from my experience it doesn't sound like an issue w your switch if it clicks normally...

Have you contacted the seller to ask if he had this issue?

 

[csshih]

cr123as?

which module?

 

[carbine15]

Never take your lights into the field without testing them thoroughly.
Testing should include but not be limited to:

* on-off cycles 200 each
* drop test onto carpet while on a dozen times to test for flickering.
* freezer test (for function at freezing temps.
* waterproof tests. bottom of sink for an hour
* kid test. My nephew can break anything.
* Full runtime test on prefered battery. Timed event.

once it's passed all these tests without failure I'll take it out as a backup to see how it goes before upgrading its status to edc or field ready.
I encourage everyone to employ this testing protocol on anything and anyone you depend on. Especially prospective wives!

 

[Centerfinger]

Thanks Bullfrog, I'll start there.

csshih - My drop in is a 1SM-2 5A Q3 and I was originally using cr123 surefire primaries and then switched to (forget brand) rcr123 rechargeables at 3v's.

carbine15 - thanks for the to-do list, I will adhere to some of those tests.

 

[csshih]

ah, sorry center. I had a problem with the 3SM, not the 1sm..can't help you there.

 

[Centerfinger]

I check it again last night and it fired right up. 2 clicks later dead. I checked the drop in and tail cap connections and they seemed solid and centered on the battery terms. I'm getting a m60l in the mail sometime this week and that should help isolate and determine if the issue is with the dereelight drop in. I'll grab a couple new primaries as well. With new batteries and a different drop in, then it has to be something with the tail cap.

 

[chmsam]

Rule out the simple stuff first. Try it with primaries. Be suspicious of bulges, any dampness, dark spots on the battery ends, etc. Remember that a DMM/voltmeter only shows part of what is going on with batteries. A battery tester shows what is happening with the batteries under a load (and that's not a "load" -- yuk, yuk, yuk!).

No joy? Try it with the original lamp assembly to rule out the drop in.

Still nothing? Then go onto basic maintenance. Take the light apart as much as you can and look for signs of corrosion or oxidation. Clean all the contacts including the battery ends. I use Caig DeOxIt Gold (it ain't cheap but it works great -- best I have found so far) and yes, you could also use a quality electrical contact cleaner. Let the stuff dry completely before you put very thing back together.

For tougher corrosion or oxidation I use an emery board (kind of like a sand paper nail file). There are two basic styles and they are both pretty inexpensive. One is a foam backed and usually finer set of grits and the other is a harder board with coarser surfaces. You can find both wherever they sell stuff like nail clippers and nail polish. These things do a good job of cleaning surfaces and tend to be delicate enough not to damage things as long as you use a gentle touch.

If all this hasn't worked, try checking to see if the springs/contacts between the batteries and at the tail cap and the lamp or drop in are sufficient. Pull or push very gently to adjust.

If that doesn't do it, there are instructions around to show you how to take the tail cap apart and clean/adjust it.

Or you could send it in and let SureFire repair it.

Start with the easy stuff, be logical about it, and do the "least likely to do any damage" stuff first.

Big advice: take a break from it after awhile and let the Zen-like calmness of flashlight goodness wash over you (I personally refer to this as waking up from a nap and saying, "Of course that's what it was! Geez, I'm an idiot!" -- and my wife usually just nods her head).

Intermittent problems are the worst but they can usually be tracked down to something minor and doable too.

Good Luck!