Its official. I'm a C2-HA addict..... *part 2*

red_hackle

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Aug 15, 2010
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I want to play too! :naughty:

IMG_0634.jpg
 
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bugsy714

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Jun 1, 2007
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bored to 7.62mm full lithium jacket!

red_hackle- your collection is SICK!!!!! That far right tailcap is too cool!
 
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Stress_Test

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Feb 18, 2008
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Dang, these things really multiply! I started out with just the black C2, then before you know it, I bought another one for my brother, then another gray one for myself! Like the potato chips, betcha can't have just one!



The supposedly gray HA finish has a definite brownish color to it. It's almost an olive-drab color. (which is good -- I like olive drab)

c2blkgrside1crop.jpg








Slight difference in the lettering and logo on this side. The older logo is slightly italicized, and the newer logo lettering is more a plain block style.

c2blkgrside2crop.jpg








Packaging is the same, except for the "High Output Incandescent Flashlight" text at the top. It's in a brighter bold font on the gray light's package.

c2blkgrwpackaging.jpg







Closer up shot of the packaging showing the "Mil-Spec Anodized" graphic, indicating both lights are hard-anodized (aka Type 3, or HA). Interesting because from what I've read here, some of the black lights are Type 2 anodized.

c2packagedetail.jpg




:D



c2blkgrside1crop.jpg
 

Cypher_Aod

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There's more than one Military standard for anodizing, some for Type-1, some for Type-2 and some for Type-3 (HA)

your black C2 is definitely type-2 :)

MIL-STD-171, 7.2.1 calls out Anodic film on aluminum, Decorative Anodizing, MIL-A-8625*, Type II Class 1, nondyed

MIL-STD-171, 7.2.2 calls out Anodic film on aluminum, Decorative Anodizing, MIL-A-8625,* Type II Class 2, dyed, color to be specified

MIL-STD-171, 7.3.1 calls out Chemical film, Aluma-IR, MIL-C-5541 Class 1A, for maximum protection against corrosion, painted or unpainted

MIL-STD-171, 7.3.3 calls out Chemical film, Aluma Gold, MIL-C-5541 Class 3, for protection against corrosion where low electrical resistance is required

MIL-STD-171, 7.5.1 calls out Hard anodic coating on aluminum, MIL-A-8625*, Hard Coat Anodizing, Class 1 - thickness 0.002" ± 0.0002" unless otherwise specified, nondyed

MIL-STD-171, 7.5.2 calls out Hard anodic coating on aluminum, MIL-A-8625*, Hard Coat Anodizing, Class 2 - thickness 0.002" ± 0.0002" unless otherwise specified, dyed, color to be specified.
 

yowzer

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Oct 23, 2008
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Near Seattle
I just got a C2-HA, my first. Now for the fun part: Deciding on which of many interesting dropins to get for it first. I love how solid the light feels despite its fairly compact size. Think I'm also going to get a clicky tailcap for it.
 

S1LVA

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Apr 12, 2011
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Rhode Island
I just got a C2-HA, my first. Now for the fun part: Deciding on which of many interesting dropins to get for it first. I love how solid the light feels despite its fairly compact size. Think I'm also going to get a clicky tailcap for it.

Welcome to the club!
I got a Triad tailcap from Oveready. Expensive, yes, but it is highly functional. It allows the light to tailstand which is big for me. But more importantly, to me at least, it is smooth i.e. no knurling. It makes the light very pocket friendly as most of my right side pockets on my shorts and pants are all torn up from other lights.

Make sure to post pics of your mods! I am waiting on another part before I take a pic of mine for this thread...

S1LVA
 

psychbeat

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Nov 3, 2009
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SF norcal
Im replacing the McClicky in my c2
with a Fettie. It has a UCL and Delrin tail shroud.

Sure do love these lights...

I wish someone made a clone of the C2 but scaled up for 26650 with an M head!!

Especially if the proportions stayed true to the original.
 

bugsy714

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Jun 1, 2007
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That 26650 c2 would be a dumptruck of a light! It would be like 2" square =)

The fettie works great but is really only needed if you are pushing 5 amps, it is very fragile and can be broken if dropped. I use a mcclicky for edc and a fettie for my FM copper 26650 with copper vidsm unit =)
 

psychbeat

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I thought the new Fetties were supposed to be more robust?

Shoot I'm pretty hard on my lights.

I'll have to check w Jessie.

I like the idea of a big square 26650 c2 still ;) tuff lookin light!!
 

bugsy714

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Jun 1, 2007
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The new ones can take a drop he said but at $50 a pop I'd be tethering my light to my belt =)

Personally the C2's only flaw is that it's bezel sticks out a bit too much and when you add a heavy dropin and heavy batts mine has a tendancy to fall out when I'm getting in/out of the car. They take the fall well, especially with a ss bezel ring but if you are like me then it happens a few times a week - big risk of damaging the fettie!
 

MaxStatic

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Sep 27, 2009
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I just picked up a pair from LAPG on clearance. Dropped a Dereelight LED in one, leaving the other stock. Steal of a deal for $56/ea.
 

PCC

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Oct 28, 2007
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Sitting' on the dock o' The Bay...
Here are my two and a half C2 HA's.

DSC_3094.jpg


The left one is bored for 18650s, has a black Type II Z41 twisty tail cap and a HA III M2 bezel. It's also got a shorter E1E clip that I picked up from the MP. Currently, it's pretty much just a host waiting for a light engine, which is probably going to be a single-mode 1A driver pushing an XP-E R4 behind an McR27L reflector tied together with a copper heatsink. Yes, that's reflective tape on the side of the body.

The right one is pretty much stock except for a McClicky with brass in the tail cap, Zeno stainless steel bezel ring, and a ThruNite three-mode 1.5A XP-G drop-in. This light is done as far as I'm concerned.

The middle light was the unfortunate victim of a lathe accident which has a posting in the Machining section. I ended up picking it up with the intent to cut windows into it so that I can see how close to the different internal dimensions I'm getting when I make my copper drop-ins for a Surefire host.

Points go out to anyone who can 1) identify how many flashlights are in the background and 2) what they are. :) Happy hunting...
 
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