Just got my Liteflux LF-3!

[mattblick]

Got my LF-3 today! I spent a while practicing in user mode to get the SW2 down. Once I was pretty good at it I went for the SW6 bad boy and got my light programmed very well.

P1 is now at around 25% (default is 15%)
P2 is now at 100% (default was 50%)

Strobe P1 is set to 10%, 32ms on 992ms off (this is my idea for marker/find me mode)
Strobe P2 I left at default 100% 32/32
I left both SOS modes at default, though I am thinking of upping the intensity of SOS P2 to 75%.

As others have commented this is an excellent GUI!!!! You can use the User mode to quickly tailor the light to your immediate needs, but when you have 10 minutes you have the flexibility to change all settings -- WONDERFUL!!

I have a feeling the other 3 models are in my future..

 

[regulator]

Matblick,

I like your settings and that is exactly what I am going to set mine to. I will also set the User mode to a very low low. These are great settings for how I would use the light. At least until I decide I want to change the light to something else - too cool being able to customize your light!

 

[Paul6ppca]

I ended up programming it ,finally, P1 super low , P2 Near max, user level approx 50%. I like to have a light on low first for beside the bed for early morning getting ready for work. Very few light have low 1st,and low enough to be really low. Thats whats so likeable about this light,User programmable.

 

[whc]

Have also programmed my LF3&5 just the way I like it, used my 120P and a lightbox to measure the output, then set the mode of my two LF flashlight after the 120P, really nice .

P1 - 42 lumens
P2 - 15 lumens
UP - 120 lumens (100%)

Was not that hard to do as I was imagining, actually only needed the manual first time, once you get the hang of the SW, it is not so hard to do .

 

[cave dave]

Does everbody know that they can preform a SW by turning the head to P2 and just pressing down on the head? There is enough play in the threads that one press will perform one cycle.

 

[regulator]

I just tried on my LF-3 and it was a no go. The threads are very well machined and fine and there is no play. The head has no wiggle at all in P1 or P2.

I saw a video with the LF-2 model that was able to do it. It may be that that series has looser threads?

 

[Cnote]

Have also programmed my LF3&5 just the way I like it, used my 120P and a lightbox to measure the output, then set the mode of my two LF flashlight after the 120P, really nice .

P1 - 42 lumens
P2 - 15 lumens
UP - 120 lumens (100%)

Was not that hard to do as I was imagining, actually only needed the manual first time, once you get the hang of the SW, it is not so hard to do .

How does the LF3 and the 120P compare, runtime, throw, fit and finish?

Been checking out a new EDC and trying to compare the NovaTac to others and the Liteflux was suggested.

Thanks

 

[regulator]

Since I have a LF-3 and not a Novatac I can only give my opinion. But based on the many lights I do have and from general knowledge, the Novatac is towards the premium end in lights and the LF-3 towards the medium spectrum in build quality.

The Novatac is a great light and is probably the easier to operate (especially with one hand). The LF-3 may give an advantage in ease of pocket carry due to its smaller size. If you treat your lights reasonably they may both offer the same longevity. The Novatac may offer better longevity if abused - JMO.

I remember reading a post by member WHC who had both and I think that the beam shape was very similar between the two as well as max brightness. I do not know about runtime.

Both nice lights. If the size and money are not determining factors, I would get the Novatac.

 

[regulator]

sorry - double post

 

[cave dave]

I have an LF2. And I think its a pretty amazing light for its size.Quite ingenious!

However the Novatac is easier to use, easier to program and has one of the most reliable switches on the market. I think the Liteflux switch mechanism will not prove to be super reliable. It seems very delicate and intricate with actual mechanical parts that could easily be disrupted by dirt, corrosion etc.

Only time will tell though.

 

[matrixshaman]

Three pages of flow charts just to program this light. I love it! I'm definitely not one of the KISS people. Well maybe for a couple lights but most of the time for me the more complex it is the better it is. I still wish there was a switch or two on this light instead of all the twistin'.... I'm sure Chubby Checker would have liked this light :laughing: That's one that probably only the old guys here are going to get

 

[Gatsby]

I didn't think a light would hit the scene that made the Arc4+/HDS/Novatac lights seem, well, simple to program and operate!

These do seem like a great lower cost alternative, however, with a lot of flexibility once you set it.

So from what I gather, in standard mode, you have two levels (which are programmable), in user mode you have 1 level (which you can also adjust by going to p2) so in most uses, you have two easily accessible levels in standard mode (click on light, rotate bezel to 1 or 2), and with a double switch on the bezel, access to the user mode.

How is the SOS/Strobe accessed? I really don't have much interest in those modes so is it easy to ignore them (i.e. you don't have to cycle through them every time you want to change levels)?

 

[Thujone]

Three pages of flow charts just to program this light. I love it! I'm definitely not one of the KISS people. Well maybe for a couple lights but most of the time for me the more complex it is the better it is. I still wish there was a switch or two on this light instead of all the twistin'.... I'm sure Chubby Checker would have liked this light :laughing: That's one that probably only the old guys here are going to get

If you go into the programming session with the mindset that you are playing a 1-bit video gaming system with a set of goals to complete in order to win it is a very satisfying endeavor!

 

[Thujone]

How is the SOS/Strobe accessed? I really don't have much interest in those modes so is it easy to ignore them (i.e. you don't have to cycle through them every time you want to change levels)?

SW*4 and SW*3 respectively.

 

[Gatsby]

Since I clicked 250 times to reprogram my HDS B42 solely to remember the last mode (and risked messing it up and having to repeat - talk about being careful!) and did a bunch of stuff to my old long gone Arc4+ I don't mind a bit of fiddling to get it right as long as once it is set, it isn't that easy to mess it up again! Sounds like in standard mode once it is programmed it will work pretty reliably without stumbling through SOS/Strobe.

I reread the thread and I think I've more or less got it. It is getting much more appealing in the CR2 or AA configurations (since I have an HDS in 123) given the ability to set P1 and P2 to your most used and easily accessible levels, with user set to max for the rare moments you need it.

Are the LF4 and LF5 compatible with RCR2s and 14500s respectively?

 

[regulator]

Yes the LF series is compatible with rechargable lithium cells. A cool feature is that you can set the protection cutoff circuit for what type of battery you are using so not to damage the cells. It also has a built in battery votage reporting feature that is pretty cool and easy to use.

I like my LF-3 a lot. I changed the emitter for one I had from Photonfanatic that made me like the light that much more. Changing emitters is very easy on this light.

 

[Paul6ppca]

I have to say,my lf 3 is always with me.The ability to set your own levels,its a set it and forget it,if thats what you want.A simple 2 level light.If you want to fiddle more then theres user mode .You never have to cycle thru strob or sos!Definitly a bargain on a programable light.Its easier twisting than adding a flupic driver!:naughty:
I still love my flupic lights too!