just got my SUREFIRE L1...can I get a forward clikie for this light with HIGH mode ?

[radu1976]

I have just received the L1.
It has a warmer tint and once I have compared it with INOVA X03 TIROS , its hotspot is more intense than the one of INOVA , on the wall.
I will compare them as soon as the night will come.
It can be held very nice in the hand but....I don't like the clikie at all.
From the safe lock position if you twist a little, you have to press on to have momentary LOW. You twist again and you have momentary LOW for half press and momentary HIGH for full press.
Another twist and you have always LOW and momentary HIGH for pressing.
Complete twist and you have permanent HIGH.
Ufff...it's worse than for INOVA X03.
I am already missing my E1L clikie ...is that what is called a forward clikie ? so half press = momentary on and full press = constant on. Like for INOVA T3.

Is there any chance to get such a FORWARD CLIKIE FOR L1 ??? I wish to be only one mode, the HIGH one. Will the clikie be in the same colour like the rest of the body, natural ?

I thought that all the L1s come with frosted lens , as in the review from www.light-reviews.com And that L1 had a white circle on the head, mine doesn't have frosted lens or that white circle !??

 

[TooSharp]

The way the stock L1 tailcap is suppose to work is you press in a little for low and press harder or farther for high. If you want constant on you twist a little for low and twist more for high. The low and high mode is controlled by the tailcap. If you switch to a clickie you will lose the low, unless there is some aftermarket clickie that I'm not aware of. I love the setup of the L1 since you could turn the light on to low or high depending on how hard you press. If you don't like the light they have pretty good resale on the market place.

 

[Valpo Hawkeye]

No, there is nothing like that. A single-mode E2L Cree is very close to a single-stage high L1, just a few lumens lower overall output. My E2L Cree single stage is visually just as bright as my L1 cree on high. Maybe it's an overachiever.

 

[chaoss]

I recently asked this same question here and it seems that there is not a clicky option for the L1. I like the twisty just fine but options are always a good thing.
I believe that newer L1's come with a clear lens and the white dot on the head only means "white" led, no big deal if it's missing.

 

[jzmtl]

I took the dot off as soon as I got mine. No reason to keep it on, you don't keep stickers on your new cloth do you?

 

[js]

The L1 tailcap, which is the same as the A2 and L2 tailcap, is a very special tailcap, and can't easily be replaced. You can see a disassembled view of one in my A2 review (link in sigline).

But . . . if you only want high, you could actually just use a clicky. The low is activated from the 10 ohm resistance in the tailcap. So if you have a tailcap that is just on or off with no 10 ohm point, it will either be off or HIGH.

So, if the clicky from the E1 will fit on the L1, you'd be all set. But I don't know that it will.

 

[Crenshaw]

why not just lego an L1 head to an E1E..would that fit?

Crenshaw

 

[Ginseng]

why not just lego an L1 head to an E1E..would that fit?

Crenshaw

It might, but then you'd lose regulation provided by the circuit in the L1 body and then end up direct driving the Cree. It'd be pretty bright on a 3.0V LiIon but most likely not that good for the LED.

Wilkey

 

[NeonLights]

So, if the clicky from the E1 will fit on the L1, you'd be all set. But I don't know that it will.

The clicky tailcap from the E1 does not fit the L1, not even close. The diameter of the tailcaps are very different. I really like my L1's, but I'm really not sure I see the point of an L1 without its innovative switching system, or with only a single level clicky switch.

 

[jzmtl]

The L1 tailcap, which is the same as the A2 and L2 tailcap, is a very special tailcap, and can't easily be replaced. You can see a disassembled view of one in my A2 review (link in sigline).

But . . . if you only want high, you could actually just use a clicky. The low is activated from the 10 ohm resistance in the tailcap. So if you have a tailcap that is just on or off with no 10 ohm point, it will either be off or HIGH.

So, if the clicky from the E1 will fit on the L1, you'd be all set. But I don't know that it will.

How much power does the 10 ohm resistor eat during lifetime of 1 cr123a if it's used in low all the time?

 

[Drummer]

I'm really not sure I see the point of an L1 without its innovative switching system, or with only a single level clicky switch.

I agree with NeonLights. If you want an L1 for the high level only, then there are better choices available from Surefire.