What are my other options that aren't primaries in an md3 sized body? It's really that size that I like the best. I have a cr123 spacer and can use an 18650, but that won't give me full output with a hound dog.
Keeppower Protection Circuit Issue
- Thread starter md17
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F89
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2014
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- 1,420
Using 2x18500 is a perfectly cromulent choice, so I don't think it's unreasonable for you to stick to your preferred option.
At this point, you've put in a fair amount of effort and received plenty of decent feedback, so if the new 18500s you have on the way play up then I can only assume that the light most likely needs to be sent back to Gene for evaluation.
Whatever the case, I'm certain you can get your MD3 running with 2x18500 and the heads you mentioned.
I hope this gets a solid solution/conclusion to the issue for you post haste.
At this point, you've put in a fair amount of effort and received plenty of decent feedback, so if the new 18500s you have on the way play up then I can only assume that the light most likely needs to be sent back to Gene for evaluation.
Whatever the case, I'm certain you can get your MD3 running with 2x18500 and the heads you mentioned.
I hope this gets a solid solution/conclusion to the issue for you post haste.
knucklegary
Flashlight Enthusiast
@md17 ,, much clearer video.. unmistakable now, and apparently a short
Did you try running the same suspect duds 2x 18500 with a different module?
If you have the same issue, I'd dispose (dig a hole and bury) or find recyclers for the lithium
Did you try running the same suspect duds 2x 18500 with a different module?
If you have the same issue, I'd dispose (dig a hole and bury) or find recyclers for the lithium
Feeling like there is a bad spring in the head. I had an HD Super, the head spring of which was not hardened and did not spring, it was flattened and there was unstable contact. You can put a round neodymium magnet between your batteries, after wrapping it on the sides with electrical tape or tape to increase the length of the batteries. Or the spring becomes soft when heated and contracts, losing contact.. I think need to remove and stretch the derailleur spring and add a neodymium magnet so that the head spring is fully compressed and cannot come loose and check again how the rear derailleur is screwed inside the button, could it come unscrew? No other thoughts yet
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knucklegary
Flashlight Enthusiast
If the issue is within the head, like @desert.snake describes, you're lucky because Gene will replace that head at no cost to you!
But he says the batteries behave the exact same with another head. I doubt both of the drivers have gone bad.
knucklegary
Flashlight Enthusiast
I missed that.. too many pages. I think OP said he had new cells on the way. He should toss the bad cell or both batteries and call it a day
Ya. Because, from what I can remember.(I know this is long post.) he tried primaries, and it worked fine. I've never seen protection circuits act like this, but that must be it
+
Just remove the silly pcb from the batteries and use your light normally.
8 pages too many for a thread* on issues caused by needlessly long batteries.
*one of about 50
Maybe the pages can be set up so it's all on one page.
All joking aside, I learned a ton from this thread about troubleshooting an issue that could've been many different things.
I received the new batteries. They work, but my last question before I'm totally done with this…is flickering when voltage is very low a normal thing with Malkoff lights? One measurement of 18500 cells when flickering started was 2.5 and 2.7 volts on each cell and I'd assume there'd be even more voltage sag when the cells get put under load.
or is it possible protection circuits cause flickering before shutting down completely?
Just to clarify, the flickering occurs with multiple lights same batteries
or is it possible protection circuits cause flickering before shutting down completely?
Just to clarify, the flickering occurs with multiple lights same batteries
thermal guy
Flashaholic
i Have many malkoffs and many 18500. When protection circuit kicks in the light shuts off. None of mine flickers on low voltage and I have done many runtime tests.
Yeah, those cells are not going to like that treatment for long
But if they're protected, when is it expected for the protection circuit to kick off all power ? And is it fair to say that anything below 3.2 would cause unpredictable behavior of the lights?
Also how does this change when using 2 cells in a series ?
You're not really supposed to be using the protection circuit as your LVP. It's only there, just in case. I would say open circuit voltage should never be below 3.2 V. Which would work out to something like 2.5–2.8 underload
Malkoff lights (some exceptions) do not have low-voltage protection. So it should just keep gradually dimming no flickering.
It does not change when you are running cells in series. The discharge voltage is the same.
Malkoff lights (some exceptions) do not have low-voltage protection. So it should just keep gradually dimming no flickering.
It does not change when you are running cells in series. The discharge voltage is the same.
What he said...
Your just taking life off the cell by going so low. 3.3v they are essentially dead of power. Zebralight will flicker when Eneloop or Li Ion get to low.
Your just taking life off the cell by going so low. 3.3v they are essentially dead of power. Zebralight will flicker when Eneloop or Li Ion get to low.
Yeah, if this is the way you normally treat your cells, it makes sense why they are dying. You would be lucky to get 50 cycles out of them with this treatment. If you're just doing it as an experiment but you normally look after them better, then it's no problem.
Now, if you are OK with knowing that, and that's just the way you want to use the cells, that's fine. But if I were you, I would definitely charge those outside under supervision. Deeply discharging them like that is what causes vent with flame when you charge them.
Now, if you are OK with knowing that, and that's just the way you want to use the cells, that's fine. But if I were you, I would definitely charge those outside under supervision. Deeply discharging them like that is what causes vent with flame when you charge them.
They're brand new and I do not do this normally, but what I am trying to determine at this point is if my lights are defective and flickering. They're all only a couple months old if that.
