KL3+SSC P4.....doesn't work!!!

[DaFABRICATA]

I just did a simple emmiter swap on my KL3 head and now it won't work. I even put the LUXIII back in and STILL nothing!! I made sure to quadruple check polarity.

ANY IDEAS.......I'm FU%KIN PISSED

 

[DaFABRICATA]

FU*K!!!! I HATE THE FUC%IN LOCKTITE SUREFIRE USES!!!! I CANT GET THE MUTHAFU$KIN BOTTOM PIECE UNSCREWED...WHERE IT THREADS ONTO THE BODY!!!

 

[DaFABRICATA]

NOW IVE GOT THE MOST ****ED UP KL3 IVE EVER SEEN AND STILL DOESNT WORK!!!!!!
FU$KIN BULLSH!T MUTHAFU*KIN SUREFIRE LOCKTITE SH!T!!!!
NOW IVE GOT A $55.00 TARGET FOR PRACTICE FOR THE AR15......FU%K!!!!

**I'm a little pissed

 

[carbine15]

You seem angry. Let's explore those feelings. I'll buy if from you for $20.

 

[DaFABRICATA]

Yeah...I know, It was one of my favorite heads!!!
If I cant get the ring off tonight, I'll consider it. I do want to shoot the fu%ker for gettin my blood pressure up though!
My therapist, Mr. AR15, told me to vent my frustrations by takin a walk with him and Mr. KL3 in the woods, and to have a conversation from about 100 yards with Mr. KL3 to resolve any hard feelings I have toward him.
I'll let ya know how it goes.....I still may have to shoot the *******!!

 

[carbine15]

Well, im not sure if I can justify $20 for a heavily vented KL3 head.

 

[DaFABRICATA]

I'll sell it if I don't shoot it......FU%K....still pissed.....
If I put acetone on/by/around the threads will that help degrade the loctite?....Anyone?

 

[carbine15]

won't acetone eat away the HAIII and melt the o-rings?
I dont understand why you are upset about the locktite. I thought that this KL3 head was already opened. The best way to defeat the locktite is heat. Lots and lots of heat to get the head open. Maybe you shouldnt be playing around in the circuit area being in such a fragile state.

 

[carbine15]

If you really must open it tonight, then get your strap wrenches leather gloves together. Pull all the o-rings off the head. remove the top part that's already open and set these aside. turn on your stove (electric) on high heat and set the head sideways on it while it heats up. should take a minute to start to glow red. Turn the head over to get heat on the other side and wait 30 more seconds. With gloves on pick up the head and unscrew. If you fail then repeat. It should come unscrewed with minimal resistance.. as if you screwed the head on with chewing gum in there. If you get enough heat in the threads... the locktite will fail and the head will unscrew easily and by hand even.

 

[IsaacHayes]

Did the slug short out the circuit and fry it? The p4 slug is postive. but the kl3 should be anodized...

Acetone wont remove HA, but could mess up some components on the circuit.

I would test the LED out with some other source to verify your LEDs are good. Don't try to open the circuit unless you are ready to replace it. Too much heat can mess up other things. You need heat but not too hot and let it sit for a while like that.

 

[carbine15]

Even surefire circuits are more robust than they need to be. I cant imagine that you did damage to the circuit by soldering a new emitter to the head. I have to ask. Did you open the head yourself? If so, after you opened the head did the emitter appear to be undamamged by the heat required, and did it light up? (was it broken before you unsoldered the old emitter?)

 

[DaFABRICATA]

I'm going NUTS over this!!! Thanks for all your suggestions....
Yes, the LED is fine. I had it wired in series to 2 other SSCs for a total of 3 to a shark converter and it worked fine. I just tested it and the LED is fine. and yes the KL3 is anodized. I even put the LUX III back in and STILL nothing!!! I figured if I could at least get to the insides I could throw a new converter board in and start fresh. That is why I'm trying to open it. It's SOOOO FU#KIN Messed up now. I've tryed acetone, my industrial heat gun, a fu$kin air hammer to the side to try to break the sh!t free.
If the bottom ring is fu$ked, I dont care. The head will/should still thread onto an M-series body. I think I'm gonna take it to my Dads and use a press to collapse the bottom ring. The lense, top bezel, and middle head body are fine. The bottom ring that threads to the body is most definetly Fu#ked and both contact springs are gone.
While I havn't done a lot of mods, NONE have ever been this much a pain in the A$$.
If it was one of my Rock River or Dorcy lights I'd probably turn it into a female plessure device, but this thing is just about completly F-ed.
At this point all I WANT/NEED to salvage is the middle main body of the head and the inside plastic mount for the electronics as well as the lense and top bezel.

 

[DaFABRICATA]

Even surefire circuits are more robust than they need to be. I cant imagine that you did damage to the circuit by soldering a new emitter to the head. I have to ask. Did you open the head yourself? If so, after you opened the head did the emitter appear to be undamamged by the heat required, and did it light up? (was it broken before you unsoldered the old emitter?)

Thats why I'm so mad! I took it apart myself with the same set-up that has successfully opened a KT4/ KL3/ KL4/ KL1/ KL2/ Rock River Bezels.
The thing had maybe 3 hours of use! and yes, after I opened it it worked fine.

I use rubber bike tire tube to wrap around head.
I then have a piece of 2X4 that I cut a hole in that is slightly smaller than the diameter of the head and then cut that in half in the center of the hole.
I put the head wrapped in rubber between the two 2X4 pieces and then into a vise to hold it.
I then wrap MORE bike tire tube around the bezel and use nice LARGE MAC TOOLS adjustable pliers on that.
I use an industrial strength heat gun...I heat a little and try...then add more heat as needed.

I'll post some pics in a little bit.....Thanks for the help guys and I hope you enjoyed my rant.

 

[skalomax]

This Thread made me laugh a little.


Send It over to Milkspit, Im sure He'll work some magic.

 

[ICUDoc]

defabricata

I hate that threadlocker too.
I have had success with putting leather-protected locking pliers on really tight then FREEZING the whole assembly for 30 mins or so.
Then a quick dunk into acetone and twist away.
Good luck.

 

[carbine15]

I couldnt use rubber on my KL1 when I opened it becasuse it melted any rubber that touched it. My solution to you.. and anyone OUT THERE LISTENING is to us MORE heat. if that fails.. use more HEAT. Acetone, gasoline, solvents.. bad ideas.. o-rings dont like them and neither does the HAIII and sensitive electronics. If you can melt solder on your KL# head.. you've probably gone too far. There's a sweet spot where the threadlock just gives and it feels like bubble gum in your threads. It's the greatest feeling in the world other than sex after youve wrestled with it for so long.

Freeze poping should also work like you said but it'll take much more force. Perhaps if someone is really ambitious they could try alternating methods.