LD01 head on Microstream body

[gorn]

I just tryed the LD01ss head on a Microstream body replacing the L0D head that was on there. The LD01 head fits the MS body better. It screws on all the way past the O ring unlike the L0D head.

Now it is real bright, has a better fit and there is no annoying strobe/SOS modes. Next stop is the Fenix store to order a HA LD01 for a better match. The black/ss looks OK but I think all black would be better.

 

[BabyDoc]

I just tryed the LD01ss head on a Microstream body replacing the L0D head that was on there. The LD01 head fits the MS body better. It screws on all the way past the O ring unlike the L0D head.

Now it is real bright, has a better fit and there is no annoying strobe/SOS modes. Next stop is the Fenix store to order a HA LD01 for a better match. The black/ss looks OK but I think all black would be better.

How did you get your Microstream apart? Mine won't budge.

 

[gorn]

I put mine in a zip lock bag and put it in hot water. It unscrewed easily after that. I know some people have had to use strap wrenches to get it apart.

 

[tsask]

GREAT IDEA!! I'm not that "handy", like many folks ARE here at CPF so I was very fortunate that my MicroStream came apart with my bare hands.:twothumbs
after first reading about this here, over a year ago, I got right up went into the next room grabbed my L0D and Microstream and an instant improvement!!!
I then took the next step and now run on 10440s!!!:naughty:

I EDC my Fenix/Stream during "night ops" or evening work hours.
you can also use the Streamlight LED with the L0D twisty body, makes a decent light!

THIS IS SUCH AN EXCELLENT IDEA!!! It would even be a great "combo special" at Lighthound, 7777 etc!

(that's good advice on the removal from what Ive read here)

 

[Lite_me]

How did you get your Microstream apart? Mine won't budge.

Like this, Doc.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2259885&postcount=65

 

[Evil Homer]

Strange, my threads on microstream body are somewhat smaller than my LD01, same pitch, but super sloppy! Not tolerable by any means. The Microstream threads measure .495/12.57mm x .75tp. My LD01 (ser#olf3y700071) measure .507/12.88 x .75 tp. Doesn't seem right. The m/s is closer to 1/2" yet uses a metric thread pitch. Well, then again, we're not talking about bolts, you can make a flashlight's diameter whatever-the-heck you feel like and the threads whatever-the-heck you feel like... I suppose.:shrug:

 

[TONY M]

I then took the next step and now run on 10440s!!!:naughty:

4 sevens has explicitly warned against 10440s in the L0D/LD01 not because it voids the warranty but because they potentially are extremely dangerous in the LOD.

 

[d1337]

4 sevens has explicitly warned against 10440s in the L0D/LD01 not because it voids the warranty but because they potentially are extremely dangerous in the LOD.

Do you have more detail on this or a link maybe? I haven't heard of this before. Not a big fan of things exploding in my pocket. I may need to pick up a cup.

 

[TONY M]

Do you have more detail on this or a link maybe? I haven't heard of this before. Not a big fan of things exploding in my pocket. I may need to pick up a cup.

Here you go https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/213368&page=3

 

[BabyDoc]

Like this, Doc.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2259885&postcount=65

Thanks for the link. This may give me an excuse to buy a SS LD01. I have a black LOD Q4 and just couldn't justify the new stainless light even though it won't look as bad as my scratched up LOD on the keychain. If your link works and I can get my Microstream apart, I will attach the black LOD head to the microstream body and switch. Now what to do with this modified LOD, since I'll have the stainless light on my keychain? And of course, there is a problem having the LD01 without a stainless Microstream body/switch. It's a shame Microstream doesn't make one.

 

[tsask]

4 sevens has explicitly warned against 10440s in the L0D/LD01 not because it voids the warranty but because they potentially are extremely dangerous in the LOD.

Yes, yet I have a L0D with "10440 compatable" on the packaging.
Considering that my light is frequently used in proximity to my face, any mishap, would not be good. I would NEVER try a 10440 in a E01

I would also say running 10440 on low/medium means longer run time than an alkaline.

 

[Bimmerboy]

Strange, my threads on microstream body are somewhat smaller than my LD01, same pitch, but super sloppy! Not tolerable by any means. The Microstream threads measure .495/12.57mm x .75tp. My LD01 (ser#olf3y700071) measure .507/12.88 x .75 tp. Doesn't seem right. The m/s is closer to 1/2" yet uses a metric thread pitch. Well, then again, we're not talking about bolts, you can make a flashlight's diameter whatever-the-heck you feel like and the threads whatever-the-heck you feel like... I suppose.:shrug:

Further explanation, please! I'm looking to place the LD01 head on a Stylus Pro, which should have the same thread parameters as the Microstream. So far, this is the only negative report I've seen.

How did you determine your measurements? Do you mean "super sloppy" as in the head has play in relation to the body (i.e. rocks back and forth)? Does this setup work well, and reliably for you, or not?

Wasn't aware one can make a flashlight's diameter and threads whatever-the-heck one feels like. That opens up a lot of possibilities to say the least.

Right now I feel like mating a 6P bezel to a Solitaire.

 

[Evil Homer]

What I meant by "one can make a flashlight whatever diameter one wants" was of course a reference to the folks that make flashlights from raw materials and have things like 5 axis milling machines and trick lathes. The measurement method I used to determine my two respective flashlights diameters x thread pitch was by mechanical caliper(last passed spc control & calibration in the mid 80's...yes the 1980's...:laughing: but I trust it) and a Hanson thread pitch gauge. Note that I found the thread pitch identical between the two flashlights, but the body tube diameter is smaller on MY m/s. So all the corresponding parts between the two flashlights are out of whack. For my taste and I think most others here, the fit between MY m/s and MY LD01, however you scramble the parts, is unacceptable. Too loose! Some m/s's may measure somewhat larger thus fit better, mine doesn't.

 

[Timothybil]

Is the body of the L0D so bad that it's worthwhile to take the head off of a $60 flashlight and put it on the body of a $15 one?

 

[kaichu dento]

Is the body of the L0D so bad that it's worthwhile to take the head off of a $60 flashlight and put it on the body of a $15 one?

I like the form of my L0D's but a lot of people doing the conversion like having a clicky switch which the Microstream provides.

 

[NeonLights]

Is the body of the L0D so bad that it's worthwhile to take the head off of a $60 flashlight and put it on the body of a $15 one?

For me it wasn't the body, it was the switch. I like single stage twisty switches, but I can't stand multi-stage twisty switches. My L0D would be relegated to sitting in a drawer had I not put the switch/body of my Microstream on it. With the clicky switch on my L0D now, it is one of my most carried lights.

 

[Bimmerboy]

What I meant by "one can make a flashlight whatever diameter one wants" was of course a reference to the folks that make flashlights from raw materials and have things like 5 axis milling machines and trick lathes.

Hehe... figured you meant something I wasn't picking up on... was in one of my wise-guy moods last night.

The measurement method I used to determine my two respective flashlights diameters x thread pitch was by mechanical caliper(last passed spc control & calibration in the mid 80's...yes the 1980's...:laughing: but I trust it) and a Hanson thread pitch gauge.

Very cool, especially the thread pitch gauge. There's been a few times here where such a tool would've been very handy.

Note that I found the thread pitch identical between the two flashlights, but the body tube diameter is smaller on MY m/s. So all the corresponding parts between the two flashlights are out of whack. For my taste and I think most others here, the fit between MY m/s and MY LD01, however you scramble the parts, is unacceptable. Too loose! Some m/s's may measure somewhat larger thus fit better, mine doesn't.

Interesting, and potentially a bit disappointing as this is the first I've heard about a sloppy fit between these items. I wouldn't want the head rocking back and forth either. Perhaps a tiny bit of teflon tape or something around the MS threads would take up the play?

Thanks for the great info, Evil Homer!

Is the body of the L0D so bad that it's worthwhile to take the head off of a $60 flashlight and put it on the body of a $15 one?

It's not that the body is bad at all. It's just that a clickie on the LD01 sounds so good. :devil:

It'd be worthwhile for me on the Stylus Pro as I've actually found it to have become by far my most used EDC. Very ergonomic, excellent little light. But, tricking it out with the LD01 head would make it just fantastic! Much higher output when needed, mid comes on first which numbers suggest is roughly close to the SP's output (probably a little brighter), low if needed, cycling modes is fast and easy one handed, etc.

A great advantage to sticking the thing on the SP as opposed to the Microstream is with two batts (Eneloops, or even Energizer Lithiums) you get the super output while minimizing the risk of direct driving the LED, or damaging the circuit as is possible with a single 10440.

 

[Evil Homer]

Bimmerboy: The teflon tape trick you suggested works! Applied carefully to the m/s body it soaks-up that small difference in diameter between the LD01 head and the m/s body. Since the threads are not an electrical contact (as in many of fenix's and other's multi-mode lights) the teflon tape doesn't interfere, and makes for a nice slop-free fit. The only caveat I can see in the reduction in thermal conductivity between the LD01 head and the m/s body with the teflon tape in place. I doubt it'll be an issue as the LD01 barely runs above ambient temperature even when on high. Indeed in my informal inaugural test, the head became only slightly warmer than the body, and even then, the head is only slightly warm to the touch. The improvement in handling the forward-clicky switch provides is nice! No more awkward one-handed operation that you get with a twist-interface. And because the tail-cap of the m/s is removable, you don't have to disturb the teflon tape on the business end when changing cells. Assuming the LD01 head is safe with the additional voltage 2 cells would provide, I can't see why you wouldn't have similar results with a stylus pro/LD01 hybrid. I don't have a stylus pro though, so I can't comment on the diameter/thread pitch, though one would guess it'd be the same as the microstream. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[Woods Walker]

I know the thread says LD01 however the S2 leatherman is a LOD with SS head/two modes with a clicky just like the L2D and it is made by Fenix. So guessing a LD01 head would work on the S2 body and maybe you would have all 3 modes however I find the two modes of the S2 just fine.

 

[gorn]

There is some wobble as you screw the LD01 head on the SL body, but not enough to cause a cross thread problem. Unless you force it I don't see this as a problem. Once the two parts are seated there is no wobble at all. Just a nice tight fit.