Lightest single 123 light for backpacking?

[zoltar]

Wow, lot's of choices! I like the ones with variable output, but if I knew, I might have added that I didn't really care to spend $100!! I never really thought about the X1, because back when I got my X5, the X1 was a spot light, but I just read the review and looks nice. I really don't "need" huge light output. The CMG Infinity I have used for several years is not the "ultra" it's the old one, dim, but 40 hours of battery life. But sometimes it's a little "too dim" I think. And the deal is, if I ever had to hike out in the dark, forget it.

I also forgot to add I use a flashlight headband adaptor if I'm around camp. It has stretchy loops that hold a small flashlight.

The other deal is, maybe I should look into a headlamp, but they are made of plastic, and once againl, "totally bomb-proof" is high on the list. If a rock falls on it (or if I fall on it) the thing still needs to work. And that is the high point of the CMG: You can't kill it!

 

[LightScene]

I think you'll be surprised at how solid the PT Quad headlamp is. Even though it's plastic, it would take a pretty serious accident to kill it. It's also water proof.
Even though you are looking at getting a light for rugged outdoor use, a headlamp is useful in every day activities also. Until you get one you don't realize how useful they are.

 

[bjorn]

First post.

Last summer, I got into ultralight backpacking. My camping flashlight is a Photon Freedom Micro. So far, its been all that I've needed. I realized that I rarely needed a light, when I used it I ruined my night vision, and that I definitely didn't need the weight. Carrying a flashlight on a camping trip is my backup to natural light. If on extended trips, trips in truly harsh conditions, or totally off-the-trail hikes, I would definitely want something stronger. In the winter, I would like something with more run time. But I think for backpackers on trails, maximizing daylight and adjusting to the dark are skills that obviate the need for a heavier light. If you want to read in the tent, this light has adjustable brightness and a clip.

 

[Oddjob]

As was suggested by txmatt, what about the Arc AAA or Fenix EO? I have done some backpacking in the past and these would have been perfect had they been around. I have never used an Arc but I do have an EO. It is on my keychain and it has sustained quite a few drops and is still working. I used it on one car camping trip and it is more than adequate to get around in a pitch black forest. With a lithium battery in it you would have great runtime and the weight is negligible. If I were to go backpacking again I would take my EO (as well as my McLux PD-S or HDS U60XRGT just because... )

 

[Traglite]

Check out the Eternalight series of lights. They are variable output, long running, super strong, takes AAA or AA and would be a perfect tent/aroung the campsite light.

 

[zoltar]

Oh, one more spec: My Infinity + one Eveready Lithium AA weighs in at 1.55 oz. For light-weight backpacking, "light is right" and "every ounce counts."

One poster suggested you don't need much output for semi-wilderness trips. True.

Another poster suggested lithium AA's. I may have posted unnecessarily. I did some research. A lithium AA is rated at 3,000 mAh. A (lithium) 123 is 1,500 mAh. But the 123 is 3v instead of 1.5 volts, meaning the two formats would contain about the same amount of power, thus if you took two identical lights, one that used a 123 and the other that took a lithium AA, both would run about the same lenght of time.

So, my quest for a 123 light is in vain, it's just another battery. One more factor would be weight. I don't have an AA lithium to weigh, but I assume one would be close to a 123.

 

[LED_Thrift]

Hi zoltar,

I like to backpack, and wind up doing most of it in the colder weather. Even when warm weather camping lithium batteries are the best way to go [AA or CR123]. I also do caving, and so I have experience with needing bombproof lights. Nothing I've ever done comes close to beating up and shredding equipment like caving! Reliable lights, especially headlamps, are certainly critical in that kind of TOTAL darkness.

Though I like my Dorcy Super 1 Watts [three of them] very much, they don't seem robust enough to rely on in the backcountry, though I have never had a problem when using them for general purposes. Great value too.

A single cell CR123 light you might consider is the Pelican M1 [~$33]. Pelican builds rugged lights and the M1 is a bit brighter than the Dorcy, and regulated.

I would agree that the Innova X1 would be a good light, especially if you don't need a lot of light. I used it a lot on my last backpacking trip - it made it to the top of Mt. Marcy and back this past Thanksgiving weekend. It would work well in your headband, too.

I always have a headlamp when camping, and certainly the ones from Princeton Tec are very tough, I wouldn't worry about them breaking down.

Good luck.

 

[heliyardsale]

First post.

Last summer, I got into ultralight backpacking. My camping flashlight is a Photon Freedom Micro. So far, its been all that I've needed. I realized that I rarely needed a light, when I used it I ruined my night vision, and that I definitely didn't need the weight. Carrying a flashlight on a camping trip is my backup to natural light. If on extended trips, trips in truly harsh conditions, or totally off-the-trail hikes, I would definitely want something stronger. In the winter, I would like something with more run time. But I think for backpackers on trails, maximizing daylight and adjusting to the dark are skills that obviate the need for a heavier light. If you want to read in the tent, this light has adjustable brightness and a clip.

I used to feel the same way. One night I took a walk down one of our trails through our woods at night after letting my eyes adjust to the darkness of night. I thought it would be fun to rough it with no lights. lucky for me I had a pair of pants on that had a Dorcy single AAA light that I left in one of the pockets. After entering the most dense area of our woods, I heard a loud sound of breaking twigs and branches about 10 yards in front of me coming toward me at a fairly high speed. When I took out my liitle Dorcy and pushed it's tail cap switch I was face to face with a dimly lit 500lb Black bear! Needless to say, I yelled (and just about poop myself) it ran one way and I ran the other, both of us crashed through the woods away from each other. I was lucky, it could have been a mother with her cubs, in that case I would have been dinner! Never again... From that point on I carry at minumum, a 3 watt light and my Apex headlight. As far as I'm concerned, more light is better in the woods...
I have a video of the same Bear at our house, he comes by on a regular basis to rip our bird feeders off of our decks.
Heli

 

[bluewater]

I have to agree with "Heli". I do a great deal of canoe tripping where weight isn't quite the issue as when backpacking. The idea of not needing a light in the bush is in my opinion a "romantic" notion at best. One fall over a root with resulting injuries can quickly end a trip.. or worse. This is especially true on a solo trip.

My favorite setup is a Fenix LOPse on a break away lanyard around my neck 24/7. The light comes in handy even during the day to find things in a pack etc.
Unscrew the bezel, turn it to "low" and you have a superb flood reading light.

I've modified an old headlamp (threw the headlamp in the trash) by sewing on a holster that various single cell lights fit into (Fenix LIP, PIDCE size.) Depending on the type of trip I'm contemplating I can put a different light in the holster. Sometimes you need less light and long runtime ...other times you need the PIDCE!

 

[wmirag]

> 1. Light weight
> 2. Flood type light
> 3. More burn time vs light output.
> 4. Totally bomb proof.

If you really want all that in one unit, the CR2-Ion is your light. It is CR2 as opposed to CR123. It has two regulated modes: low and high. Low runs for like 40 hours as I recall. And high is quite high. It's a flood. It's small enough for a neck-lanyard. It's built really well.

I was tempted to say HDS, but it's a mild spot, not a flood.

W.

 

[tsask]

I EDC a HDS 42 XRGT and a Cree Fenix P1. They are GREAT!!!:goodjob:

... to address the smallest LIGHTEST CR123 I would strongly recomend the PIERCE M10 wide lens. at the lower level it lights bright for 2 hours I love my Pierce light!

 

[Curious_character]

For some years, my backpacking light has been a Petzl Tikka+ headlamp. With 3 levels, you can trade brightness for battery life. On medium or bright it's perfectly adequate for hiking. You can read by it on the lowest setting, but I usually set it to medium for both hiking and reading. I recently got a P1, then a P1D CE, for occasional use to see farther away. But the headlamp remains the primary light for nearly all purposes.

I feel that a decent light is a piece of essential gear, even when minimizing weight. It could be necessary to hike out in the dark if someone got sick or injured, or in some other emergency. At least around here, it can easily be overcast and absolutely pitch dark at night. It could also be a real benefit for signalling in an emergency.

c_c

 

[I'M DK]

Zoltar,
I've been working my way toward ultra-light for the last two years.
Summer base weight 13lbs for 3 days of the Seirras. I'm getting there.

While the coin cell lights work most of the time, most of the time does not cut it.
A fair amount of light must be available in one unit or you duplicate and carry extra weight.
Consider these weights.
CMG and AA lithium=46.6grams, Not enough light if you get in a jam.
X-1 w/AA lithum=61.8grams, Seems right to me.
E1L China clone and 123 lithum=79.2grams, More light than I want.
Energizer AA =15.1gram Surefire 123 16.1gram

Most single 123 powered lights draw more current than most single AA powered lights.
How many batteries to bring as spares?

A variable brightness light could solve the output problem.
I don't know that I want the complication of variable control (KISS).

Plastic has come a long way and can be tough.
If bomb proof is a must, it must be metal.

Most of your choices will be within a 2oz window.
Decisions, decisions, decisions.

My two grams on the subject.


DK

 

[gadget_lover]

Interesting thread.

I have to add the old bromide. One light is none, two is one.

I think that means that when the battery dies you might want to see what you are doing.

I typically carry an ARC AAA with primary lithium battery. It's lasted 18 hours straight before when used as a nightlight. It's bright enough to see the outhouse100 feet away on a moonless night.

I also carry a 1 watt CR123 based light. It will run about 2 hours on a single cell. It throws fairly well.

And last, I carry an ARC AAA UV light, just for fun.

So you should consider a thrower, a floody low light and a headlight.

Daniel

 

[I'M DK]

So you should consider a thrower, a floody low light and a headlight.

Daniel

That doesn't work for his stated ultra-light goal.
DK

 

[gadget_lover]

DK, you may be right, but my ARC AAA with lithiums weighs 16 grams (.45 ounces). That's with the pocket clip. It's the same weight as a single CR123 battery all by itself. That's 18 or more hours of low power run time for the weight of one CR123.

My cr123 based light with a narrow optic is 1.7 oz including battery. It's got fair throw. Not great, but good.

I don't have any lightweight headlights that I'd recommend, but of the 5 I have a couple are very lightweight.

If you can replace several CR123's with a AAA based lightweight flashlight, you are ahead of the game.

I would suggest that if you are looking at needing a backup anyway, it makes sense to have one strong and one dim light. I don't camp or hike, so I could be all wet.


Daniel

(Yes, I pulled out the postage scale to check)

 

[rotncore]

For me I'd bring my Cree modded HDS U60 (with Milky right now), and Petzl Myo XP. A headlamp is very handy when both hands are needed for a task - once I left hanging my food bag in a tree until after dark, and I don't know how I'd have done it without a headlamp. I know the Myo is AA, but my GPS is too, so I can have double use for spares, and my water purifier runs CR123s, so I double up there too. I like the theory of ultra light, but I've been on a trip where getting out at dusk was a priority due to an injury in our party, and I wouldn't have wanted to have been working with just a paclite or Arc AAA. Lights and raingear are two places I won't skimp.

 

[:)>]

I've been working my way toward ultra-light for the last two years. Summer base weight 13lbs for 3 days of the Seirras. I'm getting there.

My right love handle weighs 13 lbs:lolsign:

-Goatee

 

[paulr]

For a non-headlamp CR123A you want the Tekna Splashlite LED, similar to the LS but uses a lower powered led link.

If you just want a super lightweight low-powered light, go for a Photon II (or clone) or a Photon Freedom. A velcro dot or hat clip turns these into a headlamp as well. The batteries in these last quite a long time though the brightness tails off.

An Arc AAA-like light is also a good choice. The Fenix L0D-CE gives you long runtime at the low powered modes, and quite a lot of lumens when you need them.

Forgot about the solar powered stuff for a 1 week trip (think about it if you're going for months). The solar cells are too heavy and you shouldn't rely on good weather since you might get too much overcast or rain to charge up the cells. However, if you insist, there's the Freelight in its different models.

 

[I'M DK]

My right love handle weighs 13 lbs:lolsign:

-Goatee

You'll be happy to know that doesn't count.
Only the weight in your pack counts.:thinking:
There's always car camping, RV'ing and motels.

Gadget,
There're as many different beliefs on how to equip ultra-light are hikers.
What matters is, what you take must work and be as light as you can live with.

DK