LOD CE head fits new Steamlight Microsteam body (tactical switch)

[Abumustafa]

Yo my fellow Flashaholics has any1 else tried this setup out, is it as good as the MS or not as good!!!

Rollin, how does the switch feel is it hard to press or smooth an how durable do you think it is or does it feel like it will break afta awhile your feedback would be greatly appreciated thanks guys!!!:thumbsup:

This fits. You have to cut the spring to bridge the gap. It works fine...

 

[PlayboyJoeShmoe]

I forgot mine along with my other pocket stuff like pen, marker and magnet today.

Switch seems robust enough.

 

[Abumustafa]

Playboy are you talking about the one from DX or the Microstream,

Any1 have both of them to compare both switchs an see which 1 is more robust, i know the Microstream will be brighter but there have been many complaints about the switch on it :sick2: so a comparison will be great :twothumbs!!!

Thanx

I forgot mine along with my other pocket stuff like pen, marker and magnet today.

Switch seems robust enough.

 

[PlayboyJoeShmoe]

Mine is made with a Microstream I got at Carters Country (gun and knife store in Houston).

I switched ends and it fits together better that way. That is that the LOD head is on the tail end of the MS and the MS tail is on the head end.

As the MS is black and my LOD is natural it looks rather frankenstined!

I know not what DX thing you are referring to....

 

[Abumustafa]

This one here Playboy it is similer but mayb not as robust as the MS!!!

As Rolling has posted the pictures of his an it looks nice!!!

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.10683
This one fits the LOD-CE also.

 

[Abumustafa]

Just wanted ask you fellas if any1 has tried this little AAA clicky on the LOD or LD01, the threads look about the same as far as i can tell, might order 1 an see if it fits like they say take 1 for the team

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2976

Any info will be appreciated
Thanx

 

[Pontiaker]

Got my LOD and MS in today.

Head was a PAIN to get off, I marred up the MS body pretty well.
The MS is a very nice light to begin with, the beam is not as ringy as the LOD and has a nice tint with no artifacts in the beam pattern. Brightness was as stated, between medium and high on the LOD, and it does throw further than the LOD.

Anyway, I addressed the problem people are having with the body being too long. I shaved off a few milimeters of thread on the MS body, allowing the o-ring to actually function as designed - to keep water out. I could have taken off a mm or so more, but I didn't want to risk the chance of cutting it too short. Some people say you can just turn the body around, but then the tailcap is sticking out too far.

You can do this at home if you have access to a dremel. Measure and cut carefully, and make sure it's even. A trick you can do is to put the body over the top of the cutting bit ,so the screw is facing the inside center of the body, and finish up like that. It allows for a more evenly distributed finishing grind.
After that, clean the threads with some 500grit sandpaper, wash off, and assemble!

Here's a picture below. Notice the shortened gap.

I also did this to get rid of the gap completely.I used my knife grinder/belt sander with an old worn 800 grit belt, no thread clean up needed afterward. Also it does not have to be perfect I think you just dont want to go too short or you will not have ground contact.I did it with my polished special edition stainless steel Fenix LDO1 I think?I will be blasting the black body tomorrow so it matches the stainless better. I dont care for the guarded cap on the DX light. Love the Streamlight clicky cap though! I dont realy like how long it makes the light...I just ran mine under really hot water and used rubber kitchen gloves for grip, works great. This is how I take apart all my sealed lights and SF heads too.
Matt

 

[DHart]

Word to the wise about boiling to remove MS head...

In anticipation of receiving my LD01 from Lighthound I decided to remove the head on my MS and beef up the engagement surface of the switch.

I was unable to remove the head with rubber covered pliers and vise, so I boiled the head for 3 minutes. The head then came off easily. And all looked fine... UNTIL I powered it up... the beam had become very ringy and rainbow-multi-colored... so the heat must have tweaked the reflector or lens enough to create the very colorful new beam. Not a big deal, as I plan to use the LD01 head on the MS body anyway, but I would have preferred that the MS head be left good as new. SO... word to the wise about boiling!!! Next time I would use the small hose clamp method and perhaps applying a little head with a lighter.

AS for the boot, as I tried to remove it, it got a small tear, so I used the tear opening to insert a small round rubber plug between the switch and the boot, then applied a little glue to help close the tear... that worked ok, though the switch still requires a significant depression to click to constant on.

So, I gained some knowledge in exchange for some losses... education isn't free! Fortunately the cost of a MS isn't much.

Now... can't wait to receive the LD01 to see if destroying the MS head was worth it all!

 

[DHart]

No sooner did I toast my Microstream head in the boiling water when the LD01 arrived in the mail from Lighthound... And along with it, some AW 10440 cells. I filed down the threads a little on the MS body so the LD01 head can sit right up against the flange on the MS body... topped off the 10440 and put it all together.... all I can say is W~O~W! The output is stunning for a single AAA light. Stunning for a AA light even! In my standardized ceiling-bounce test I recorded 4.8 EV from this thing.... just for comparison, some of my other ceiling bounce measures:

LD01 head on Microstream with 10440 ====== 4.8 EV
Jet III M with warm emitter & 18650 ====== 4.8 EV
Solarforce SuperBright Q5 & two RCR123's === 4.8 EV
Nitecore D10 R2 with protected 14500 Li-Ion=== 4.9 EV
Solarforce R2 4.2-8.4v lamp w/ two RCR123's== 4.7 EV
ConneXion X2 w/ protected 14500 Li-Ion ===== 3.7 EV

Clearly, the LD01/10440/Microstream is a handy, nice, and POTENT package. So, yes, toasting the original MS head was irksome for sure, but now that I have seen what the LD01 head can do on the MS body.... I couldn't care less about the MS head anymore. :devil:

P.S. Edited to add... now a few hours later, I'm really still in shock at the light that the LD01 on a 10440 puts out... gives me a totally new perspective on the diminutive AAA flashlight! Still in disbelief, I had to do another ceiling bounce test and sure enough, came back with 4.8 EV again. Seeing is believing.

 

[hotlight]

is the light still "waterproof" with this mod?

 

[PlayboyJoeShmoe]

Seems to be. By swapping ends the o-ring is well covered and I can't suck any air through the tail.

 

[hotlight]

Seems to be. By swapping ends the o-ring is well covered and I can't suck any air through the tail.

got my setup from lighthound(pretty cool being a 1/2Hr away). set up the stock LOD first- definately not feeling the twisty for such a small light.

set up the fenix-stream(the head was on tight). holy s#it. much better. the switch on the micro does need a "deep push" to stay on, BUT the momentary is GREAT-w/o the fenixstream mod. , the LOD would probably stay at home or in a glove box-maybe even returned.

as far as being water tight: first I put it on "normal"-tail o-ring is completely "inside", the head o-ring is visible but just barely...

tried it "backwards"- tail o ring is clearly visible... the head is completely sealed and there is no gap. but now the gap is in the tail end.

did the "suckin' air" test(760g doesn't have much taste)--both ways seem sealed. so, for me I'm going to keep it the "normal" way because both o-rings are completely covered and I don't mind the gap towards the head--ultimately I'd like to shave down the longer threaded end, just because.


the microstream seems like a nice little light itself, what a shame. I'll try to mod the micro head to work with the LOD body-then give it to someone that will probably lose it anyway

this is a great mod thanks to the original poster. :thumbsup:

this light now goes in my pocket, my LD10 is now a LD20 thanks to lighthound selling the batt. tube/body itself. :twothumbs

 

[Kestrel]

Well, after using my StreamLight Stylus Pro (2xAAA) for over half a year (and finding just how useful this form factor is for me), I finally had to take the plunge by purchasing an LD01 for it. After reading all the concerns about how tight the StreamLight head could be loctited on, I hose-clamped / rubber lined the head:

held one end lightly in a vise, the other with an adjustable wrench, and presto. Very easy & zero damage!

And I cannot believe how good of a light this has become! I had EDC'd the LD01 by itself for a few days before trying this, and frankly, I wasn't impressed (for a number of different reasons). Now on 2xAAA alkaline, the output on 'high' appears to be comparable to the Malkoff M60L on 2xCR123, and changing modes via the momentary button is very convenient and much nicer than doing it with the stock LD01 twistie. The output on 'low' is comparable to the stock output on the SL SP/MS (although it's difficult to compare exactly since the SL is throwier than the LD01).

A great mini-mod, much better than either light separately!

 

[DHart]

I finally had to take the plunge by purchasing an LD01 for it.... and frankly, I wasn't impressed (for a number of different reasons).

Kestrel... Did you run the LD01 with a 10440 Li-Ion??? I can't imagine how you would not be incredibly impressed with the LD01 running on a 10440.

I'm glad you're now appreciating the LD01's output! I'm amazed by it.

 

[Kestrel]

Did you run the LD01 with a 10440 Li-Ion??? I can't imagine how you would not be incredibly impressed with the LD01 running on a 10440.
I'm glad you're now appreciating the LD01's output! I'm amazed by it.

The thing is, I really wanted to retain the inherent safety & convenience of alkalines (free at work), especially for a light that will see a fair bit of travel (much easier to take spare AAA cells than to keep those little 10440s charged up, plus I can deep-discharge AAA's with no worries, resulting in ~twice the usable runtime over 1x10440). I know the LD01/10440 has great output, but didn't want to get into why I wasn't impressed with the LD01 itself in this thread (the UI for example - I really missed the momentary-on of the StreamLights).

But I do find that I use my SL SP 2xAAA a lot at work, so figured this is a no-brainer. It really does make for a fantastic penlight!

 

[DemskeetSkeet]

http://www.lighthound.com/Fenix-LD01-Cree-R2-AAA-Flashlight-HA-III-Black-Finish-can-use-10440-batteries_p_3377.html

Does that light work with this modification?

I currently have a few microstreams and stylus pro's and would like to do this mod.

What current and discontinued fenix lights work with the streamlight lights?

I want the ones with at least 3 modes of brightness, if there are other modes such as S.O.S. or strobe that's fine.

Thank you so much.

Oh, one more question: Is there anyway to purchase just the head of the Fenix lights?

 

[Luminesce]

I've used my SL MS for a couple of months now, nice little light, fits in my jean pocket or a jacket pocket with room to spare. But I'd like to have a split ring on the end of the light, near to the switch boot so I can attach it to a key ring w/o the clip. To properly drill the holes will require removing the switch, I've tried but no luck so far. I've tried manipulating the two "tabs" between the metal ring and the spring with jewelers screwdrivers and dental picks to try and unseat/remove the switch. Don't know if the assembly is pressed in, screwed in, glued in or held in some other way. Has anyone figured out a way to removed the switch yet?

 

[Lite_me]

Luminesce:

Yes, I've removed the switches on a couple three. It's just pressed in. It doesn't have anything to do with those two metal tabs. Leave those alone.

It might be hard to explain how to do it but I'll try.

I removed the tailcap and placed it in a vice as if you were going to clamp it by the clip with the base of the tailcap resting on top of one of one of the jaws of the vice. I don't actually clamp the vice down on the clip, but close it just enough to hold it there so you have a nice firm base so you can hammer(tap) on it. I suppose you could let the clip hang off the edge of a table and hold it while tapping, but the vice helps hold it in place.

I then use a small, flat screwdriver and push it against the side of the rubber tailcap sw cover until you get by the small ledge that holds the rubber cap on. (the sw is pressed up from the bottom against this lip/ledge, against another lip from the rubber cap to secure it)

I then carefully tap on the screwdriver to try and drive the switch down, some. You might try a few different positions around the button to help ease movement.

What you need to be careful of is to try and not cut the rubber cap edge (to much) with the screwdriver tip so it will be reusable and hold good when replacing. A slightly dull screwdriver tip would work best. Or maybe something else that's similar you might have.

I only tap it enough till the sw has moved enough to release the pressure on the rubber lip, and I then remove the rubber so as to not damage it (any more).

I then continue to tap the sw down, rotating around it with the screwdriver to help extraction.

A word of caution here: The plastic is quite soft that the sw is made of. You/I really need a better suited tool for this but I've been getting bye with this particular one I have. DO NOT let whatever you are driving the the sw out with.. slip into the actual button slot where the actual button sticks out. You'll surely ruin it that way. Some force is needed on some of these so be careful.

Once removed, you might sand down the outside of the sw some so it's not so hard to drive back in once you're finished. Not to much though, but once all back together, the battery pressure will help keep it in place should you go a bit too far.

Good luck! At least you now have some idea how to do it. :thumbsup:

Edit to add: Oh yeah, and don't forget to place the rubber sw cover back in before driving the sw back in. That's what holds the rubber on.

What I do here is place the sw upside down in a socket (a 3/8s maybe? I forget) so the there's no pressure on the button when I tap it in.

 

[Luminesce]

Luminesce:

Yes, I've removed the switches on a couple three. It's just pressed in.

Thanks for the info! I was thinking pressed but initially wondered if it had a nut holding it in place under the cap, although a couple of people who removed the cap never mentioned a nut below it.

I'll try using some small rounded tip (well worn) screwdrivers or whatever I find around the workshop that will be best suited for the job. I'll take my time to try and find the right tool before digging in so I'll have less of a chance of destroying the switch.

I have some thin 1/4 and 3/8 drive deep sockets I can use to tap it back in place. It made sense that if the switch wasn't held in place by threads then there may be a lip or ring (or maybe a grove in the wall) that once the switch slipped past it, the switch would lock into place, similar to how the thickness at the rim of an eyedropper causes the rubber bulb (cap) to lock on to the dropper once it gets past the rim.

Don't suppose you've taken the head apart too? It looks like it will slide up past the threads. It too may be pressed in. I don't have the thin tool needed to side past the "flat" sides of the pill to see if I can turn it or pry it out. I'd like the light more if it's hotspot was a bit softer, more like the LF2XT's. I could place a diffuser over the lens or sputter the reflector if I can get it out. This will only be the workshop/toolbox light where I don't need a strong hotspot but a bit more throw than my ZL H501 has.

It doesn't have anything to do with those two metal tabs. Leave those alone.

I removed the tailcap and placed it in a vice as if you were going to clamp it by the clip with the base of the tailcap resting on top of one of one of the jaws of the vice. I don't actually clamp the vice down on the clip, but close it just enough to hold it there so you have a nice firm base so you can hammer(tap) on it. I suppose you could let the clip hang off the edge of a table and hold it while tapping, but the vice helps hold it in place.

I then use a small, flat screwdriver and push it against the side of the rubber tailcap sw cover until you get by the small ledge that holds the rubber cap on. (the sw is pressed up from the bottom against this lip/ledge, against another lip from the rubber cap to secure it)

I then carefully tap on the screwdriver to try and drive the switch down, some. You might try a few different positions around the button to help ease movement.

What you need to be careful of is to try and not cut the rubber cap edge (to much) with the screwdriver tip so it will be reusable and hold good when replacing. A slightly dull screwdriver tip would work best. Or maybe something else that's similar you might have.

I only tap it enough till the sw has moved enough to release the pressure on the rubber lip, and I then remove the rubber so as to not damage it (any more).

I then continue to tap the sw down, rotating around it with the screwdriver to help extraction.

A word of caution here: The plastic is quite soft that the sw is made of. You/I really need a better suited tool for this but I've been getting bye with this particular one I have. DO NOT let whatever you are driving the the sw out with.. slip into the actual button slot where the actual button sticks out. You'll surely ruin it that way. Some force is needed on some of these so be careful.

Once removed, you might sand down the outside of the sw some so it's not so hard to drive back in once you're finished. Not to much though, but once all back together, the battery pressure will help keep it in place should you go a bit too far.

Good luck! At least you now have some idea how to do it. :thumbsup:

Edit to add: Oh yeah, and don't forget to place the rubber sw cover back in before driving the sw back in. That's what holds the rubber on.

What I do here is place the sw upside down in a socket (a 3/8s maybe? I forget) so the there's no pressure on the button when I tap it in.

 

[Lite_me]

Don't suppose you've taken the head apart too? It looks like it will slide up past the threads. It too may be pressed in. I don't have the thin tool needed to side past the "flat" sides of the pill to see if I can turn it or pry it out.

No I haven't messed with the head. I have never actually even used it. I only use the bodys & sw to put an L0D head on them. I like the multi-brightness options w/ the forward clicky. But I do remember that the stock output was not bad.

I'd like the light more if it's hotspot was a bit softer, more like the LF2XT's. I could place a diffuser over the lens or sputter the reflector if I can get it out. This will only be the workshop/toolbox light where I don't need a strong hotspot but a bit more throw than my ZL H501 has.

Gotcha! I loove my LF2XT. For the beam as well as the functions. And my 501 Zebra is never to far from my reach. It's so handy and such a lifesaver when you need hands free illumination.

Hope your project works out ok for ya.