Looking for a 400 lumen monster with continuous runtime

NightKids

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Will the Lumapower give continuous runtime?

And shouldn't it be a requirement for the companies to put how long max you should be able to run these lights before they get too hot. Like for example Fenix says 15mins on turbo max.
 

joe1512

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The DX-mini ultra can NOT run continuously. The whole point of the light was to make it as small as possible and max out the SST-50 emitter which was new at the time. It is a pocket-rocket, not a continuous high-beam light.

Basically you need one of two things:

a) Enough size to be able to dissipate the heat from a 2.5 Amp draw on high. That means a larger light like the Trustfire TR1200. Something with lots of aluminum. Or a homebrew.
or
b) Enough efficiency to not generate quite so much heat. That means using multiple XP-E or XP-G emitters. The Trustfire TR1200 uses 5 older small emitters to accomplish this. I think this would be your best bet if looking at homebrews.
 
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Noctis

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You could try a triple XP-G driven at 3 amps.

With the efficiency of the XP-G emitter, it ought to generate less heat than an SST-50 driven at 2.8A. Since it's a relatively low power setup, it shouldn't warrant having to solder each emitter directly to a heatsink, which I believe is the most costly and time consuming part of the process.

http://www.lux-rc.com/view.php?p=content/magazine/new_leds

That one looks nice enough. Though if I'm reading it right, you'll need to have 2 cells to run it.
 

NightKids

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Nailbender has assured me that the dual xpg will put out just as much if not more heat than the SST-50. I outta options I guess...
 

psychbeat

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uhh I run my 2.8a Linger and 2.5a sst modules continuous til
cutoff with no problems- tho theyre outside and its at night
45-50deg F.

been fine doing this once or twice a week sometimes more
for a couple months.

I use AW 2600 18650s
and also AS-5 on the pill+ aluminum strips
for a tighter fit

in a bored C2 and an L2p

both modules are being sent to BIG C so we'll see how
much light they make but Id bet on over 400 otf

I say just go for it.
 

Noctis

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Nailbender has assured me that the dual xpg will put out just as much if not more heat than the SST-50. I outta options I guess...
That sounds a tad odd when you consider that an XPG is more efficient than an SST-50.

More efficiency = less heat & more lumens(or just more lumens)
 

Henk_Lu

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That sounds a tad odd when you consider that an XPG is more efficient than an SST-50.

More efficiency = less heat & more lumens(or just more lumens)

I gues the efficiency of an emitter doesn't matter in terms of heat if you push it to its limits.

Here we are in presence of two XP-G emitter driven neasrly as hard as possible and that generates a lot of heat. Efficiency means that a more efficient emitter generates less heat at the same output than a less efficient one.

The SST50 driven at 2,8A is far away from its limit and thus is just heating up a little bit. Given teh size of the emitter, that little bit is already a lot in a little dropin, have a look at the Jetebeam RRT-3, which is driven to the maximum, that's a bit larger and a bit more heatsinking. To see what is needed to manage the heat produced by an SST90 at full power, just take a look at the Olight SR-90, the didn't make it that big just for fun!

With cars, people make the same mistake. They buy an efficient little one and are suprised how thirsty it gets on the german motorway... To take profit of its efficiency, you have to stay in the limits where it actually is efficient!
 

NightKids

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This has been quoted by the man himself...

"The dual xpg is running at the same amperage and voltage as a P7 or a sst 50 as they use the same driver.
You will get 500 plus lumens and they are very floody with little throw.

Can you use it continuously I just don't know as I don't use these hosts but temperature wise there is little difference between a SST 50 and this."
 

psychbeat

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:duh2: I still say either you guys are trippin or Im just
being cavalier with my modules but Ive had NO PROBLEMS
running mine til batt cutoff repeatedly and I think
there are a buncha other folks doing the same with theirs.
the 2.5A goes for over an hour with a bit of taper and is
warm but by no means uncomfortably hot in the hand.
the 2.8a tapers a little faster and gets a little warmer.
its the DD modules you have to keep more of an eye on
I think.

:thumbsup:
 

bullettproof

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Elektrolumens EDC MC-E or P7 130 bucks build quality and heatsinking is some of the best Ive seen.
 

Brigadier

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JetBeam M1X. Sorry, but a 2X123, 1X18650 light won't be able to handle the heat for a continuous burn until shut off.....
 

notsofast

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My Raidfire Spear with nailbenders SST-50 only got to 114 degrees sitting on my desk.(45+min.) The walls of the hootch were 80 degrees with no air flow.

In a real world application it wouldn't even get hot.

I have also used my Electrolumens EDC-P7 as a light source until it dimmed. Didn't measure the temp but it felt cooler than the Spear but the indoor temp was 30 degrees cooler.

Neither light is real big, good luck doing the same with a smaller light.
 

ginaz

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especially with drop-in modules, a lack of heat to the body does not indicate a lack of heat produced by the module! trying running one on a benchtop power supply and see how hot they get, you might be surprised
 
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