LumenHound
Flashlight Enthusiast
This thread is about Sengoku's activities. Not mine. Focus everyone.
Love the HAlll look but is it worth the extended durability cost?
Love the HAlll look but is it worth the extended durability cost?
Luxogen LR12 McR17XR Cree flupic mod
- Thread starter Sengoku
- Start date
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LumenHound
Flashlight Enthusiast
Thanks Essexman. I try.Essexman said:
I just transplanted the Seoul from a MTE Zpower into the Luxogen.
The Lux was fried (only dimly illuminated) and I hate the switch on the MTE so decided to do the transplant. Direct swap and i'm very impressed. The focus is slightly off, but that just means it gives a nice flood
The Seoul was turning a horrid shade of blue in the MTE because it was shittily heatsinked. The LR12 gets very warm but the LED does not shift colour at all - for such a small light they really did design the heat path well.
Very impressed with this little fellow, it's a nice showoff light.
May end up changing the reflector, but at the moment I'm happy!
The Lux was fried (only dimly illuminated) and I hate the switch on the MTE so decided to do the transplant. Direct swap and i'm very impressed. The focus is slightly off, but that just means it gives a nice flood
The Seoul was turning a horrid shade of blue in the MTE because it was shittily heatsinked. The LR12 gets very warm but the LED does not shift colour at all - for such a small light they really did design the heat path well.
Very impressed with this little fellow, it's a nice showoff light.
May end up changing the reflector, but at the moment I'm happy!
r0b0r - Did you isolate the slug on the SSC P4? LumenHound said you have to, but I thought most (if not virtually all) emitter boards (stars and others) were neutral in the center where the LED slug mounts to. I was thinking about doing this to my LR12, but was concerned I had to remove too much material from the reflector. Sounds like it's still ok if none is removed and if I want a bit better focus, just remove a little bit from the reflector.
Thanks.
Thanks.
I forgot about that factor, but I did put a reasonable (but not heaps) of generic thermal adhesive on the emitter before i applied pressure and soldered it.
I don't think it's shorting out
(Can't be bothered dismantling it at the moment, will if it dies!)
It gets bloody toasty, but that's the nature of these little things!
I find the focus of the P4 is fine. Nice and floody but still with a decent hotspot.
There *is* what I would call "wasted" spill, that outer ring that is pretty damn useless and could be better off used if directed forwards.
However, this is being really picky - I think it's great!
Will beamshot it against L1D-CE
I don't think it's shorting out
(Can't be bothered dismantling it at the moment, will if it dies!)
It gets bloody toasty, but that's the nature of these little things!
I find the focus of the P4 is fine. Nice and floody but still with a decent hotspot.
There *is* what I would call "wasted" spill, that outer ring that is pretty damn useless and could be better off used if directed forwards.
However, this is being really picky - I think it's great!
Will beamshot it against L1D-CE
Well, put a SSC P4 in my LR12 last night and DAMN!!! it's bright! I checked the emitter board and it is electrically neutral, so there's no need to isolate the slug on the SSC P4. The reason it's neutral, as opposed to other pills that are typically negative, is because the pill body is plastic and doesn't physically connect the emitter board on top to the driver on the bottom. Most other pills are solid aluminum which connects the emitter board to the brass/Cu ring on the bottom to the driver board.
All I did was use a 30mil Cu spacer from SS to raise the SSC P4 with thermal grease between both interfaces (just a touch). Focus is great...it's actually got a tighter hotspot than with the Lux and is very bright (definitely over 100 lumens) on a RCR2. I haven't tried it on a primary CR2 yet, but dang this suckers bright now! There was no need to remove material from the reflector for me.
All I did was use a 30mil Cu spacer from SS to raise the SSC P4 with thermal grease between both interfaces (just a touch). Focus is great...it's actually got a tighter hotspot than with the Lux and is very bright (definitely over 100 lumens) on a RCR2. I haven't tried it on a primary CR2 yet, but dang this suckers bright now! There was no need to remove material from the reflector for me.
LumenHound
Flashlight Enthusiast
Uh, guys...take a close look at the top of the stock emitter board. It rests up against the bottom of the metal reflector and the sidewall of the metal reflector makes intimate contact with the inside surface of the bezel. Once the anodizing wears through a bit on the very fine threads between the body and bezel then that bezel will become electrically negative.jsr said:
If you don't isolate the slug of the SSC P4 emitter from the stock emitter board with a layer of 2 part Arctic Alumina thermal adhesive then you will eventually be relying solely on the quality and thickness of the interior anodizing of the bezel to prevent the emitter board from also becoming electrically negative.
I don't know if I'd want to trust the interior anodizing of such an inexpensive flashlight to keep the converter board from frying. You hope that if the board got fried it would cause an open circuit but if it fused closed your battery would be shorted. Not good if your using the stock converter on a primary li-ion or a FLuPIC with an unprotected cell.
Bullzeyebill
Flashaholic
Old thread here, but got to thinking that Cree XR-E is a better device for heatsinking than Seoul P4. Do not need that layer of Artic Aluminia to issolate slug with Cree and you get better heatsinking path. Seoul is not doing well at higher mA's to led and should probably be used in applications of less than 1 amp to led. Cree on other hand seems to handlle 2 amps ok. JMT's.
Bill
Bill
