Making the Perfect EDC light a reality! ? ! ?

[Tiny86]

I am very interested in how this turns out!

My 2 cents:
I would have at least two levels on light, maxing out at 130 lumens, if not more. But no SOS or strobe. A SS or aluminum body, that is bullet proof and water tight ie, dunk proof. I think interchangeable parts would be a great idea especially reflectors. Nothing to huge but maybe around 35mm or more for the larger reflector option. Have a recessed button in the tail cap so that light can sit in a holster. I like the length and width of lights that take two 123As. But having the option of having a body that takes AA bats would make it very appealing, especially if you can get good runtime with over 130 lumens with good throw. Have a well regulated system to help the runtime, (I know nothing about how all that works, just what it dose).

Good luck!
Nick

 

[thiswayup]

As a business proposition, if you can produce a light is every bit as good as a Surefire G60 LED, has proper regulation and 3-5 modes, and can take a 10ft drop, then with proper marketing and distribution you can sell it for at least what a G60 goes for - maybe an L1, if you get the appearance of the light right.

Making the light so it can uses tubes for one or two of either AA or Cr123 and adding user changeable pills would would some appeal, but also risk - that drop standard is already a high one, and adding joins etc makes it much tougher to get.

Successful product design is about risk management and focus. Successful branding is about getting the most important thing right and shouting about it.

 

[lupy]

If you are looking for something no one is doing, how about a new reflector size, dedicated to a AA and 2/AA light, to make a AA as small as possible. Right now, my only choice for a EDC is to go AAA, which leaves me with a short run on bright. An AA would give 3X the watt min, and dosn't have to be as big as they are currently.

At a minimum, make the AA tails as small as possible, they are now all the same dia as a 123 tail, silly.....

Forward click in the tail, allowing for momentary on without messing with levels. I am amaized that all the cheap lights for sale have reverse click, what a stupid useless choice.....

At least three levels, probably with a twist in the head, maybe a recessed click in the head to chose levels.

 

[Vikas Sontakke]

Do you know how many CPF'er have publicly complained about HA-3 color missmatch on their SureFire and/or Fenix? If you are thinking about mix and match components, be prepared to be swamped with return request on HA color match.

- Vikas

 

[Sgt. LED]

1 reason I'm voting for Stainless. That and sometimes you need to use a flashlight for a hammer on someone! Weight is not an issue for me at all, hump a couple boxes of ammo for the SAW you're carrying and then relearn what you can comfortably EDC.

 

[BentHeadTX]

1 reason I'm voting for Stainless. That and sometimes you need to use a flashlight for a hammer on someone! Weight is not an issue for me at all, hump a couple boxes of ammo for the SAW you're carrying and then relearn what you can comfortably EDC.

Hey Sarge,
I have a Peak Mediterranean with optional 2AA body and it is made of stainless steel. No need for anti-roll bezel, it puts a dent in the floor when you drop it. Although a very, very stout light that will outlast me, probably not a good idea for the first EDC light due to excessive weight.

 

[MikeLip]

Stainless is unnecessarily heavy. This is supposed to be EDC - that means jeans or suit. Stainless might be OK in casual slacks where a droop or bulge is OK, but not in nicer clothes. And besides, if it's too heavy you're not gonna carry it! Aluminum is the way to go. Besides, aluminum is a much better heatsink. You could get away with a smaller light if you can use the body to sink the emitter waste heat.

 

[Sgt. LED]

Dang.

 

[MikeLip]

Dang.

LOL! Stainless *is* pretty though! I have a Peak 2AAA Fujiyama in stainless. It weighs a ton - far too heavy for what it is. I don't carry it in my shirt pocket, which is where it belongs. It drags the shirt down.

 

[KevinL]

The way I see it, the mass market aluminium light will come out first. Then the 'exotic materials'. Not like stainless is exotic, but it's less commonly used.

Nevertheless, again with the modularity of this light, it's likely both requests can be fulfilled

 

[Muppet]

Ok, so HA3 is a problem because of color, and stainless is heavy.

How do we feel about black?

hahaha

We should have a site where people can vote on this stuff

 

[Delij]

Hey all, more moving today....seems endless. My car (SUV) almost doesn't have room for my cell phone, and my storage locker seems over-stuffed. Frustrating! (Big locker too.....guess my furniture is too big).

Anyway finally got a chance to sit down and read the latest posts. Lots of good and interesting ideas.

Never got an answer today (no call-back) on the Robar finish I was thinking about. Tomorrow I'm going to try and get in touch with a guy I know who does firearm refinishing and mostly uses anodizing since he pretty much specializes in custom Ruger 10/22s and they virtually all have aluminum receivers (there are some rare and expensive stainless receivers, but they cost more than an entire brand new 10/22 - never could see the sense of them). He also anodizes aluminum barrels - yes, there is such a thing....quite a few lately...they have a steel tube (where the rifling is) encased in aluminum for rigidity with weight savings. So he not only does anodizing, but other finishes as well and I'll try and pick his brain.


Clearly the electronics of my ideal totally modular light is going to be the biggest challenge.

And as someone rightly mentioned, the more modular, common wisdom would seem to indicate giving up some sturdiness. Well, that's an issue that will have to be addressed, but I have some ideas on that which I think will make it a non-factor. May add a bit to the cost, but if I can indeed create a true "lifetime" system (I'm now thinking of it as a 'system" rather than a light), costs can be justified as long as we get what we pay for....and in what i see from other makers, I'd like to believe we can get MORE than what we pay for.

If a light can be kept "state of the art" for the foreseeable future (and the way LED development seems to be progressing, I don't see why an adaptable host can't be made that will accommodate what's down the road for at least several years.....let's say a decade....well obviously a decade is not a lifetime, but if I can create a light that might cost (for example) an average of $25 a year to be state of the art, that seems more than reasonable. Assuming the light itself is appealing enough to justify $250 over the course of 10 years to keep it at the leading edge of technology. Let's say the original system costs $150....that's $500 over 10 years. Who among us does not spend $50 a year on useless lights we regret buying and end up giving away or sticking in a junk drawer and never use. (I'm not saying these prices have any bearing on what the light will cost....just using an example...I hope to be able to sell the light for less than $150, and I'd hope the upgrades would be far less than a $25 a year average....especially knowing what the newest and latest and greatest emitters are selling for (not a lot). Making the emitters ready to be "plug and play' will certainly add to the cost, but my belief is only minimally.

Hopefully I will have some time next week when I go to see the people I mentioned I contacted about manufacturing this light in the Midwest and in Seatle, to be able to come back with some more specifics regarding costs (and of course depending on feedback, that would make a big difference in what this thing will cost and what features....supply and demand).

I will also try and have an "artist's rendering' if I can get some time on a CAD ....which I think will not be hard. Meanwhile suggestions as to the appearance would be helpful too....everyone seems to be telling us what features they want or don't want....but what should it look like? (I personally happen to like the look of the Defender, but I also like the look of a good old Mag....and it's hard to imagine two more different looking lights.

Peace,
D.

 

[KevinL]

Interesting comment about futureproofing - it led me to think of the MagC and MagD hosts. 15-60 lumen depending on battery configuration in its stock form. Then look at what they've been turned into. They are as futureproof as it gets and they were not even designed for this purpose..

You can have the Defender AND the Maglite look depending on the size of the bezel. For EDC purposes, a smaller bezel is desired, Defender-style. However, substitute 'large' reflectors for increased throw and beam collimation will give you the Mag look.

Probably best to go with a lower profile design for smaller pockets. Again, optional reflectors including large-diameter ones (which I personally would be keen to see) can be added later.

Like this.......
http://www.surefire.com/maxexp/main...nbr=6&prrfnbr=209&sesent=0,0&search_id=555244

Also, for a few more tips on a modular design, see the LionHeart and associated lights. The bulk of the discussion (no pun intended) takes place on another forum and can be found here: http://flashlight-forums.com/index.php/board,25.0.html

(just to make it clear.. I'm not 'recruiting' for another forum.. I'm just referring to the main source where questions can be answered by people more knowledgeable than myself).

The reason why I bring it up is that this is the best example of a large-reflector design that can simply be screwed onto a light to change the beam profile. (that I can think of at the moment). My own experiences are http://lights.lightrefineries.org/?page_id=7 and http://lights.lightrefineries.org/?page_id=25. This light also provides modular converters, switching, easily replaceable LED, multiple battery pack options, and multiple bezel options. Specifications were not published, however, and these lights were all limited-edition lights, so by definition their user base is small.

If I was to build a light, even starting from scratch with the objectives we have defined so far, I feel it's very likely that I would end up with something very similar to the LionCub and accessories kit - except that I particularly want a TAIL switch not a side switch

 

[Mercaptan]

- The big one: Tough as a casio g-shock - all components embedded in epoxy or shock protected so that if you drop the light 10m it goes on working. Or if 10m can't be managed, at least 2m. Surefire wimp out on their warranty on a four foot drop. I suspect the only light that does reasonably well here is the Inova X5. Shock protecting a high end LED while heat sinking it will be a challenge. The good thing business wise is that a tough light is an easy sell - just repeat Casio's tactics, humiliate Fenix and SF with public drop tests, etc.

What this man said - there's a reason why I went gaga when Casio unveiled their cell phone line. I saw 'waterproof' and 'shockproof,' combined in the same sentence as 'cell phone.' I was hooked. I have had this little Casio G'Zone for four months now and I regret nothing. People with iPhones come up to me asking if I'm jealous... I ask them 'Can I take your iPhone snorkeling?' I've actually done this with the G'Zone, and to me, anything that can't deal with the elements (gravity, water, heat / lack thereof) is simply not worthy of my time.

I'm chiming in with my own thought for EDC - a light that works well not only on LiON rechargeables, but also on standard alkalines for when... shtf.

Also, I like what Dereelight has done. They have founded a company on the basic notion that flashlights are completely modular. The emitter modules freely float between DBS and CL1H, and also P60 devices. What happens if a newer, better, faster, stronger, more awesomer LED comes out? It's a shame to have to completely replace a beloved inanimate object (harr), but regardless, if one (I) can save money and retain a durable, fantastic product that can be upgraded continuously (given manufacturer support), I'm all for this. Companies standing behind their products also help - I've heard Dereelight is fantastic, and also there are the industry standards - surefire, etc. Continued manufacturer support = necessary.


Versatility and dependability are really the cornerstones to any good product. Look at Victorinox, for instance - a multitool. Rugged, sophisticated, completely over-engineered - but still practical, even though the design is some 80 years old.

 

[awberke]

damn this thread is quite the read-a-thon, no way in hell i'm reading all of those posts. Cool idea tho.

 

[cy]

holy cow!!! this is the wordiest thread on cpf!!!

read first page and that was enough :green:

 

[Brozneo]

Holy Christmas, that there is a long post!

I'm just gonna pull up a chair and while reading it.

I'll join ya! It's gonna take awhile!

 

[Sgt. LED]

Love this thread! One of the few that gets me excited about a project. I have such hopes! Can't wait......

 

[Tiny86]

I like the look of the Fenix P3D. So maby something along those lines. But the SF 6P looks good also, the reasons I say that is the head is slightly larger then the body.
I think a pocket clip would be good also.

 

[Delij]

I like the look of the Fenix P3D. So maby something along those lines. But the SF 6P looks good also, the reasons I say that is the head is slightly larger then the body.
I think a pocket clip would be good also.

A larger head would be an add on module if it is part of the orignal kit. The basic light without the extra (probably larger) modules such as battery tubes, head/reflector, possibly even different tail caps would be a pocket sized light.

I really don't know much about the electronics of how these things work, but I was thinking that if the regulators and mode setting elements could all be put into (different?) tail-caps, then it might make it easier and faster to switch from one kind of emitter/heat-sink/reflector/whatever than to have to design a light that is essentially all head with no function for the body (like a Fenic P1) except to hold cells.

With the electronics all in the tail-cap (if possible, and I don't see why not), we could have our choices of clickies, twisties, combinations, etc...and depending on the electronics, possibly a more economical way to switch heads for different uses.....again, this is way out of my realm of understanding, but that's what I am going to be learning about over the next week or so.

Seems that a head with just the emitter on it's board, and a chunk of brass for a heat-sink and a reflector and lens to be appropriate for the desired beam pattern shouldn't be an expensive module......(relatively) if all regulation is in the tail. Only problem might be size, but again, I really don't know.

I do believe I have come up with a way to use one battery tube for several different sized cells and at the same time have it be extremely durable....in fact it should be far more durable than any flashlight tube I have ever seen. And the added cost should be negligible. If I can have a head made and still keep it upgradeable and have it anywhere near as sturdy as my idea for a battery tube, This light should be very appropriate for use as a weapon light at a fraction of the cost of what is presently on the market (would just require an adaptor to attach it to a Weaver or Picatinny type rail).

I hope to have some drawings up within a week or so in the hopes of getting some input. But basically I'm thinking something pretty generic, but also ergonomic like a Novatec or an Inova (Think Inova X1/X5 with more knurling and perhaps the flats extended for better anti-roll, or a "Bolt' style head and tail, just more subtle and better blended in.)

Peace,
D.