As stated, I have an MD2 with an M30 and an AW 2600mAh 18650 battery. I bought it for night hikes and walks, so it's turned on for extended periods of time. Awesome light, but after being on for 20min or so, it becomes too hot to hold. I haven't yet measured the temp, but is it typical of the M30 (or M60 for that matter) to generate that much heat? I worry about the battery overheating. I'm wondering if I should get a bigger host (MD3, 9P, C3) that would have more aluminum to conduct the heat through. I would simply use the 18650 with a spacer.
Malkoff MD2 w/ M30 - heat
- Thread starter Dork413
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
jahxman
Enlightened
You could also get the 2 level retaining ring, and run it at the lower level for a while when it gets too hot.
The MD2 has awesome heatsinking and thats why it gets so hot. An M30 in a Surefire 6P or Solarforce L2 would never put off as much heat... Because they dont sink the module as well...
But for me I use mine basically the same way you use yours, for long runtimes. Fishing, Hiking, long walks, and at the beach. Mine always gets hot but the only time it ever got "too hot to handle" was when I let it sit while it was on for like 10 minutes and hadnt touched it. Your hand helps it dissapate heat but it will still get pretty warm.
Ohh yea and as far as an outside light I wouldnt suggest the 2-level ring as a solution to your problem. On an M30 the second mode isnt sufficient for night walks IMO. But on an M60 it works great for a lower mode walking light.
But for me I use mine basically the same way you use yours, for long runtimes. Fishing, Hiking, long walks, and at the beach. Mine always gets hot but the only time it ever got "too hot to handle" was when I let it sit while it was on for like 10 minutes and hadnt touched it. Your hand helps it dissapate heat but it will still get pretty warm.
Ohh yea and as far as an outside light I wouldnt suggest the 2-level ring as a solution to your problem. On an M30 the second mode isnt sufficient for night walks IMO. But on an M60 it works great for a lower mode walking light.
Last edited:
WadeF
Flashlight Enthusiast
Do you constantly need the light shining far down a path? Or are you blasting 200+ lumens at your feet as you walk along? You shouldn't need 200+ lumens at your feet as it will make it harder to see whatever is lurking in the dark, where the beam isn't hitting. I find 20-30 lumens is plenty for walking along, and then if I want to spot something father away I'll use more lumens to do it.
I'd try to 2-stage ring, low for lighting your path infront of you, high for checking out things farther away.
I'd try to 2-stage ring, low for lighting your path infront of you, high for checking out things farther away.
Robert_M
Newly Enlightened
Don't bother with the switch ring when using an M30 (works great with M60 though) ... it puts out maybe 1-2 lumens. I have a Malkoff Wildcat MD4 running on two AW18650 batteries which works great on the low setting (50 lumens) for walks ... its stays cool.
thermal guy
Flashaholic
The M30 will get hotter then the M60
What would you estimate the output of a M60 being driven by 1x18650 with the switch ring on low?
Either I suck at searching, or nobody's posted this before.
--flatline
Robert_M
Newly Enlightened
I normally run two primaries in my MD2-M60 which gives about 12 lumens on low. I just tried using one 18650 which gives about 4 lumens on low.
Last edited:
Dude Dudeson
Enlightened
+1.
For night walking/hiking my 6P/M60 is far too annoyingly bright unless I'm specifically trying to light something up in the distance.
By far I mostly use another light in low mode, probably around 45 lumens or so.
Bullzeyebill
Flashaholic
I am not sure that a Surefire host would not heat sink well using the Malkofff M30. Maybe there is more metal/conductive surface in the Surefire head? Has anyone weighed the Maloff MD2 head and a Surefire head? I am talking about a standard 6P type head with glass window. Glass conducts heat also.
Bill
Bill
Only 4 lumens? I never knew 4 lumens was so useful. That was how I primarily used it before getting the MCE warm and I just sold the M60. The MCE warm on low is great as well.
Hmm...I want something that I can read/write with at night without blinding myself. With a M60WF or M60WLF, that would probably light my note pad just fine.
If Shiningbeam doesn't restock warm MG L-mini II's soon, I might just end up with a MD2-M60W(L?)F...
Thanks!
--flatline
Sgt. LED
Flashaholic
I have an M60 LLF and it's brighter than I expected.
It may be too bright for some as a reading light. WLLF might do better, contact Gene for a special build
.
It may be too bright for some as a reading light. WLLF might do better, contact Gene for a special build
.I have an M60 LLF and it's brighter than I expected.
It may be too bright for some as a reading light. WLLF might do better, contact Gene for a special build
It's my understanding that the number of L's in the module's designation has no effect on the brightness when in low mode. Only the value of the resistor in the ring matters.
Is that correct?
--flatline
Yoda4561
Flashlight Enthusiast
Yes they get a little warm, this is why only metal body lights are guaranteed to be reliable for extended runtimes with the full power modules. If you put that module in a body and it DOESN'T get hot, then you can worry.
Sgt. LED
Flashaholic
Correct. ANy M60 variant has the same low when using the MD2 switching ring.
I like the LOW low on the m30 2 stage myself.
Last edited:
Bullzeyebill
Flashaholic
The voltage off the cell(s) and the resistor value determines the brightness, or rather dimness. The more cells (voltage) the brighter the low will be at a given resistor value. A 60 ohm resistor and an M30 would be super low.
Bill
