McGizmo Aleph Clickie mule L.E. WAVE options

[nitnapz]

i see that there is a relationship between the shoppe and don, but would like to know what the shoppe can offer in terms of tweaking or upgrading the light engine.

What i have in mind (of course, bigger, stronger, harder)
is a Q5 driven at 1A.

this should produce quite a bit of light, compromising runtime, i know but what are the options here. i am aware as well that the GDUP? driver will support RCR123 and multi-levels.

are there any sandwiches at the shop that can help me turn out a q5 driven at which levels and how ?

regards,
zach

 

[LED Zeppelin]

The sigle cell configuration of the McClicky pack will limit your options. The SOB would be a good choice but you need 2 cells.

The GDuP would be the ideal, and add versatility with 3 levels, but you'll have to wait until the boards only are available, or buy a complete light and use the LE. There may be a turbo version that would give you the 1 A or near. Current specs are 700 mA on hi.

Of the existing boards a GD with the proper sense resistors to configure it for 1 A, or an NG1000 would work. I believe you'll need to use an RCR123 to get the required juice, a CR123 will probably have too much voatage sag to run in regulation.

Keep in mind that a 1 A, you'll generate lots of heat, and the McClicky pack is a single stage, which would limit the versatility of the light.

 

[nitnapz]

GD with the proper sense resistors to configure it for 1 A
NG1000 would work
RCR123

awesome. ive never played with such tiny electronics (i lied, i did some led work, but nothing that required so much accuracy when upgrading the mule L.E in the head)

if the RCR123 with Q5 and one of the GD or NG boards works (600ma~1000ma) . the search is over, i gots to "build" this..

i see many pills that look like what seems to be a gluegun gone crazy with mayo in the sandwhich, but would i need a heatsink for the diode, maybe cut down a penny or something ?

z

 

[LED Zeppelin]

The NGs will work with the RCR123, but initially until the cell depletes a bit, they will overdrive the LED. This probably won't be so noticeable with an NG1000, but with an NG500, it will take a while for it to come down into regulation. It is usually not a recommended setup, but it has worked for me and many others.

If you're putting this into the Mule/McClicky pack host, a sandwhich is not what you need to build. Those are usually used in miniMag hosts. What you need to build is an Aleph XR Light Engine (LE), which uses a Cree LED, the Cree MCPCB (metal core PCB specifically for mounting the Cree), the converter board, and an Aleph XR can. The can has threads and shoulders for the MCPCB and the board. This will then screw right into the Mule head.

Here is an example of an Aleph LE build, but with a Luxeon setup. You will not be using the threaded top part (the E Screw), the XR can has integral threads:

http://dmcleish.com/CPF/Aleph-LE-Build-Notes/index.html

If you browse around the Shoppe's modding supplies section, you will find the necessary components.

 

[nitnapz]

Aleph XR Light Engine (LE) This will then screw right into the Mule head

awesome thanks, now i won't feel as if i am doing a mickey mouse job, a pill/sanwhiches won't be reliable to center the emitter. the "can" makes alot of sense.

i am also getting into the TnC, with their new SF compatible lights using cflex with an AW lion.

that keyword came up in the mcclickie wave: surefire e, sf, something series. when the two lights come in (mcgiz aleph and TnC cflex/27mmSF head), i'll see just how much i could interchange the 27mm SF head & can(flu2.2&q5) into the mcgizmo mcclikie aleph

 

[Ms_SS]

The GD will run on primary and rechargeable single cell batteries only. No multi-cells.

 

[Kelvino]

Need advice in finding the right components

I'm awaiting my AMc soon and would like to build a LE for it.
The GDuP sandwich is no longer available and I rather look forward to build my own then buy a complete one.
Since upgrading a few of my lights with newer LEDs I believe I can build this thing myself.
Right now I'm just not sure what converter I should use.

I plan to use a Cree Q4 or Q5 with 1x RCR123, no primary.
I have the intention of building the LE with a good brightness/runtime balance.

So far I would pick this components:

1x Aleph Light Engine Kit [ALE Kit]
1x Aleph XR Can [XRCan]
1x Cree MCPCB 650 [MCPCB650] or the Cree Thin PCB - Rev 2 [CreeTPCB2] whatever is more recommended?
1x Cree Q4 or Q5 LED ofcourse
1x Converter board

Finding the right board is the biggest problem right now.

If I missed anything which is vital for build a LE please let me know

Thanks alot!

 

[dat2zip]

To make an XR LE you will need.

The XRcan, 650MCPCB, converter board and LED.

The thin PCB is for something else and the LE kit is for the Luxeon/Seoul LED.

Wayne

 

[Kelvino]

Thanks for your answer Wayne,

so what is your suggestion for a converter? The Nexgen is not the right board to use with a RCR123 as I know, right?
If it does work I was thinking of the Nexgen750. Which other (available) converter would you suggest for using with a Cree and RCR123?
Or should I wait for a certain board to become available at your shop besides the GDuP, maybe the GD500?

As you can see I'm a totally noob when it comes to electronics.

Thanks again!

 

[acourvil]

Personally, for a one stage mule application, I would go with something around 400mA or 500mA.

 

[Kelvino]

Well, which of those would be the right choice if I want to use a Cree Q4 with 1x RCR123 only?
The SOB 500 or Nexgen 500? The GD500 and BadBoy 500 are not in stock.
Hopefully my last annoying question.

 

[nein166]

Well, which of those would be the right choice if I want to use a Cree Q4 with 1x RCR123 only?
The SOB 500 or Nexgen 500? The GD500 and BadBoy 500 are not in stock.
Hopefully my last annoying question.

Neither go for the Wiz 520 its like the GD500 with a touch less efficiency. You can use the R123 or primary. Or wait for Wayne to finish the GDuP boards.
Ask Wayne if Wiz520 can be set at 520ma otherwise bump to 700ma.

And you won't need this component:
1x Aleph Light Engine Kit [ALE Kit]
Just the XRcan, MCPCB650, Q4, and converter
Fire up the EasyBake Oven!

 

[Kelvino]

Thank you, and a happy new year

 

[maxspeeds]

Are there any converter boards at the shoppe that has 2 stages? Low at around 25ma and high at around 350ma? That would be my ideal setup

 

[jch79]

Are there any converter boards at the shoppe that has 2 stages? Low at around 25ma and high at around 350ma? That would be my ideal setup

If you want it right now, you'd have to put the Mule head on an Aleph body with a McE2S switch, coupled with say a NG/SOB 400mA LE. (No 350mA drivers at SS).

The GDuP is an obvious candidate for just about any Aleph light IMHO - the Mule being no exception - and I'd say that if you can wait until you catch one of these, that's your best fit for a multi-level driver.

john

 

[Ms_SS]

The Aleph 19 will also work on the McClickie pack.

 

[maxspeeds]

Ms_SS, do you know if McGizmo's AMC Mule can house the 2-stage McE2S switch?

 

[PatS]

I asked Don about the 2 stage McClicky in the AMC mule, and he said it would not work.

 

[maxspeeds]

Thank you PatS. I guess I'll either settle for the GDuP 3 level, or around a 400mA converter board