Metric threading.

Tim Carleton

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jul 30, 2008
Messages
63
Location
San Antonio
Hi, I've had a jet pb1325 for about a year now and I'm finally trying to thread something other than just playing around. I was skypeing a friend who is in the trade and we thought we had it figured out, that I needed to flip two gears around to get the proper gearing, well he had to go and I noticed that the big compound gear will not mate up properly if flipped, it's as if all the gears up above need to be shimmed out about 3/8 of an inch before this would be possible. Short version, the gears don't line up properly according to the chart in the manual and of course the manual says nothing about shimming.

here's link to the chart in my manual that we came to the conclusion how to set the gears: http://s457.photobucket.com/albums/qq296/Wraytex/

the first pic is as the gears are currently setup, the second is what i need for my pitch thread of 1mm

I hope there's some jet familiarity here. :)
 
It looks like there are two positions where you can get 1.0mm. c2 with the gears on the left and c6 with the gears on the right.

But I do not know how to read that chart, so have no idea how that pertains to stacking the gears.

EDIT: Found the manual. You are doing it right. Are the 120+127 gang centered on the spindle? The manual shows flipping the 40T gear on the bottom too so it's shoulder is out for imperial, in for metric.

Daniel
 
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all the gears up above need to be shimmed out about 3/8"
That sounds about right. If you can buy a thick washer, that may get the alignment close enough (perfect is nice but not essential). Or turn, bore & face a piece of solid round stock to make the correct thickness spacer.

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If your machine is like my Wilton, there should be keyed spacers on each shaft (where the 40 toothed gears reside)...If you have never had the spacers off, they may appear to be part of the shaft.

Can you post a pic of the change-gear assembly?
 
It looks like the 40 has the spacer I am familiar with...The 120/127 mounting bracket pivots, and there should be a slot in that bracket (to move the 120/127 fore and aft (to adjust mesh and lash))

Please snap an end view photo.
 
From what I see, you need to remove the 120/127, flip it, and remove the lower 40T, and place the spacer to the inside.
 
ive done that but the real issue is, the upper 40 toothed gear is behind that lower arm that the 127/120 gear mounts on and there's no way to get them to align without shimming the uppers, and the upper gears do not have any adjustment outwards to them. I'm hoping I'm looking at this wrong.
 
Well Scot (TranquilityBase) had the problem pegged, the drawing is a poor rendition of what's actually going on and I was taking it too literally.... with one shim on the 120/127 gear and I'm ready to go. I'll post pics when I get the part done. Thanks to all who replied. :thumbsup:
 
Well Scot (TranquilityBase) had the problem pegged, the drawing is a poor rendition of what's actually going on and I was taking it too literally.... with one shim on the 120/127 gear and I'm ready to go. I'll post pics when I get the part done. Thanks to all who replied. :thumbsup:

Nice chatting with you Tim :) I hope your project is fun and successful.

I was interpreting that crumby illustration the same way you were...I am confident you were 99.999% there, before you dialed my number.
 
I've got some practice to do, it's not entirely pretty but it does work and the infrared led lights up the back yard when looking through the screen on the sony camcorder. Again I appreciate the help. :wave:

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