Mounting a Surefire 6P to Winchester 1300 Defender?

cjlandry

Newly Enlightened
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Oct 9, 2007
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I see there are some replacement fore-ends for the 1300, but those are way out of my budget, and I want to keep the pretty wood on my HD shotgun.

Does anyone know of any other options?
 
How about $20 for a clamp?

http://www.innovativetactical.com/c...d=274&osCsid=2fc2e9e29d8c04e530ce241e209ab8d8
doubleclamp.jpg
 
That looks like something easily made from stuff lying around the house if you're in an enterprising mood.

'Morning, CJ.

'Afternoon, Dan. (Been driving all day)

I'm gonna have to think on that one a bit. I could split some pipe and weld two halves together twice, but when I can get that for $20, it's not worth dragging the mig out of it's space in the garage.


:crackup:

My lighthound order was sitting on my desk when I got home a little while ago.

Now I get to play with the 9v incans in two cell lights.
 
The clamp shown above works just fine.
That's how I have my StreamLight Scorpion mounted on my Remington 870...
I've used the Surefire 6P as well.

I have taken several shotgun courses and shot several 3 gun competitions with this set up...No problem.

If you position the light correctly on your magazine tube, you can operate it's tail switch with the thumb of your weak hand.....Momentary on/off.
Highly recommended.
 
I hope you guys are using shock absorbing heads for those.
Why?
The way I see it - if a device is to be relied upon for a mission-critical application then corners really shouldn't be cut. IMHO there's no point saving the money by not purchasing a dedicated SureFire shotgun forend WeaponLight, and then spending money getting a fancy mount and a shock isolated bezel for a hand-held flashlight just in case. Just in case the time comes when you wish you hadn't cut the corner to save a few bucks? Too late then.

No - use a hand-held flashlight in a cheap mount. If you find it lacking during training, or you get yourself in a spot of bother and it fails to help you prevail then hopefully you'll live and learn.

I have no doubt that spending money on gear rather than instructional training and practice is an exception to this. If you have no choice - invest in training rather than gear. There's no pretending that the best gear is some magic wand that will save yourself if you don't know how to best use it.

Note that I'm not a firearms owner or user and have not recieved any firearms training. I pass on what I've picked up. I suggest you take advice from those who have experienced the situations you want to prepare against, or those who train people to do so.

Al
 
Note that I'm not a firearms owner or user and have not recieved any firearms training. I pass on what I've picked up. I suggest you take advice from those who have experienced the situations you want to prepare against, or those who train people to do so.

Umm, I'm speaking from 20 years of experience with everything (literally) from a .22 short to a M2 machine gun, to HellFire missiles and 2.75" rockets.

I don't weapons mount anything at home (but might just to shoot the Fenix to death and see if I can) but I've shot firearms mounted on weapons regularly.

I've seen duct tape mounted Radio Shack free flashlights on shotguns stay together for a hundred rounds.

I've seen $300 mounts with $300 flashlights made for weapon mounting fail after 10 rounds.

I've seen everything in between.

My belief is that clamp will hold just fine and most flashlights will work just fine for 10-20 round sets. You'll have to check the clamp screw if you don't use blue loc-tite on it between sets, but other than that it shouldn't be a problem.
 
DanielG,
Would you agree that training with the light attached is important regardless of which light it is, and how it is attached, so that the user can gain an understanding of how the firearm and light combination work (or don't) for them?

Trust in the performance capabilities of any tool/device is enhanced through using it under 'controlled' conditions prior to deploying it for real. For example I changed the tyre of my vehicle after being issued with it in case I would have to do it for real. One of the things I learned was that I needed gloves and hand wipes, something suitable to kneel on, a headtorch, and everything in the boot (trunk) in weatherproof holdalls or storage boxes. I also doubled the number of warning triangles and hi-viz jackets and purchased a set of road 'flares' (amber LED strobes).

Anyway - weapon-mounted lights are one more tool and one more thing that can fail and/or be used inappropriately. Lowlight training/instruction would seem to be one of the more important aspects of owning and using a weapon-mounted light.

Al
 
DanielG,
Would you agree that training with the light attached is important regardless of which light it is, and how it is attached, so that the user can gain an understanding of how the firearm and light combination work (or don't) for them?

Anything you use, anything you depend on literally in a life or death situation, must be trustworthy. You cannot know if it is or is not until you beat it to death and see what happened and how to either correct that or know when to replace it.

Train, test, train and train some more. Hopefully you'll never need it, but plan as if you will.
 
A man once said, "Train hard; fight easy." And that man's name was...
I forget. But the point is... I forget that, too. You know what
I'm talking about. He used to drive that blue car?
 
Thanks for the advice, folks. I really appreciate it.

If I mount a 6P to my little "riot gun", you can bet that it will get at least 100 test rounds of 1 oz. slugs fired through it to make sure the setup is reliable.

I own several handguns, several rifles, and this shotgun. I load my own ammo for handguns and rifles. I don't train like a SWAT Team member, but I train enough to defend myself and my family.

The shotgun's primary purpose is home defense, and I believe it will suit that purpose better with a light mounted on it. Don't worry, I'm doing my homework, and I don't trust my life to any gun that I haven't fired a whole lot of rounds through.

If the light doesn't hold up under fire, while lit before and during the strings of fire, then I'll step up to the next level.

In a true home defense situation with a shotgun, I don't expect the weapon-mounted light to remain on for any length of time.

I have other security items in place to prevent such things before it comes down to firing a gun in defense. It's a last resort option, but one that I won't hesitate to use.
 
I mounted a small piece of rail to my forearm ($3), then used a nice little Weaver scope mount to hold my G2, easy and fun project, cheap too.

That little bracket in the photo above, the clamp style.. Just head on down to a gun shop with that photo, chances are they have some of those laying around, a few gun companies will use those (or a slight variation) to secure a second barrel in a combo gun during shipping.

Here is mine, also is a clamp like I described.

PA152961.jpg
 
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The clamp type have a tendency too shoot lose. Plus they are notorious for scratching up the shotgun.


Drug store moleskin inside the clamp where it touches the shotgun should take care of the scratching danger.

Never mount something onto a firearm using screws without using blue loc-tite for that very reason, well unless you want it on there permanently, then use red.
 

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