darkknightlight
Enlightened
I've done a number of mods before, but this is the first one I'm posting a thread about. I've been working with using the MT-G2 in an EDCable light for awhile, and was wondering how hard the emitter could be reliably pushed. I decided to use a 2D maglite as a host and go from there. Next I had an idea for a heatsink, and happened to stumble onto Bucket's heatsink thread: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...g-Mod-Screw-In-Aluminum-Heat-Sinks&highlight=
Bucket is FANTASTIC to work with! I had a lot of ideas banging around my head, but had some trouble organizing them. Bucket was able to ask the right questions and gather the necessary information to create exactly what I wanted. After many PM's, I sent bucket some measurements for the heatsink and he produced this:
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It is an aluminum heatsink with a press-fit copper rod core. I figured the copper core would help pull the heat away from the copper mounted MT-G2 better than the aluminum. The two set screws are used to secure the star to the sink. I used some IC Diamond 7 carat diamond thermal compound between the star and the sink. The sink has a lip at the top that keeps it from being pushed too far into the mag tube.
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Sorry for the blurry image; my only camera is on my cell phone. My plan was to use 18ga. OFC speaker wire to deliver the current to the led.
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The switch is prepped and the heatsink holes fit the bigger wiring.
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Soldering has begun, and the heatsink inserted partway into the tube. It was a very tight fit, which was perfect for creating the thermal pathway.
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Soldering done, and the sink pressed fully into the mag tube. I used a rubber mallet to get it all the way seated.
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Battery spacer tube made from some PVC piping, holding two AW IMR 18650s. Next to it is the shortened tail spring. I was going to use the 18ga. speaker wire and some electrical tape to do a resistance mod, but decided to wait until after I had done some current readings.
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Here is the assembled head view. Yes, the stock mag lens is scratched and nasty. I'll have to order a borofloat one soon.
So after everything was assembled, I threw the batteries in and turned it on... Holy Cow this thing is bright! It has a huge hotspot, and a very minor artifact in the center of the beam. I'm going to need to file down the screws and soldering pads so that the reflector can sit a half millimeter lower. I'm using a sanded down maglite rebel reflector.
I first tried the light with a set of protected panasonic 3400s. Their protection circuit is rated at 7 amps, and the light shut off in under one second. I tried a couple more times with the same results; so I know that the emitter was pulling more than 7 amps.
I switched over the the IMRs, and lit it up. It seemed brighter than the split second of light from the protected cells. Next I tried to get a current reading using my harbour freight multimeter (I know I know)... and I'm pretty sure I blew the 10 amp fuse. So I got my other harbour freight multimeter...and the same thing happened. It just reads a "0" for the detected current. I have used them before to measure current in a maglite on various incan mods, and they worked fine. I guess this is just too much current for them to handle.
I decided to run the light for about three minutes straight with a tight grip. It got pretty hot, but not too hot to hold. There was no tint shifting or dimming that I could see. I let the light cool down for about fifteen minutes, then ran the light for another four minutes straight. I decided to shut it off at that point, because it was getting uncomfortable to hold. But again, I noticed no tint shift or dimming. I pulled the cells out of the light; they read 3.68 and 3.69 volts.
I tried to get a beamshot, but the camera on my phone couldn't focus at all. I'll try again tonight in an outdoor setting with a couple other lights for reference.
Let me know what you think! And a HUGE shout out to Bucket for helping me along with this mod
Bucket is FANTASTIC to work with! I had a lot of ideas banging around my head, but had some trouble organizing them. Bucket was able to ask the right questions and gather the necessary information to create exactly what I wanted. After many PM's, I sent bucket some measurements for the heatsink and he produced this:
It is an aluminum heatsink with a press-fit copper rod core. I figured the copper core would help pull the heat away from the copper mounted MT-G2 better than the aluminum. The two set screws are used to secure the star to the sink. I used some IC Diamond 7 carat diamond thermal compound between the star and the sink. The sink has a lip at the top that keeps it from being pushed too far into the mag tube.
Sorry for the blurry image; my only camera is on my cell phone. My plan was to use 18ga. OFC speaker wire to deliver the current to the led.
The switch is prepped and the heatsink holes fit the bigger wiring.
Soldering has begun, and the heatsink inserted partway into the tube. It was a very tight fit, which was perfect for creating the thermal pathway.
Soldering done, and the sink pressed fully into the mag tube. I used a rubber mallet to get it all the way seated.
Battery spacer tube made from some PVC piping, holding two AW IMR 18650s. Next to it is the shortened tail spring. I was going to use the 18ga. speaker wire and some electrical tape to do a resistance mod, but decided to wait until after I had done some current readings.
Here is the assembled head view. Yes, the stock mag lens is scratched and nasty. I'll have to order a borofloat one soon.
So after everything was assembled, I threw the batteries in and turned it on... Holy Cow this thing is bright! It has a huge hotspot, and a very minor artifact in the center of the beam. I'm going to need to file down the screws and soldering pads so that the reflector can sit a half millimeter lower. I'm using a sanded down maglite rebel reflector.
I first tried the light with a set of protected panasonic 3400s. Their protection circuit is rated at 7 amps, and the light shut off in under one second. I tried a couple more times with the same results; so I know that the emitter was pulling more than 7 amps.
I switched over the the IMRs, and lit it up. It seemed brighter than the split second of light from the protected cells. Next I tried to get a current reading using my harbour freight multimeter (I know I know)... and I'm pretty sure I blew the 10 amp fuse. So I got my other harbour freight multimeter...and the same thing happened. It just reads a "0" for the detected current. I have used them before to measure current in a maglite on various incan mods, and they worked fine. I guess this is just too much current for them to handle.
I decided to run the light for about three minutes straight with a tight grip. It got pretty hot, but not too hot to hold. There was no tint shifting or dimming that I could see. I let the light cool down for about fifteen minutes, then ran the light for another four minutes straight. I decided to shut it off at that point, because it was getting uncomfortable to hold. But again, I noticed no tint shift or dimming. I pulled the cells out of the light; they read 3.68 and 3.69 volts.
I tried to get a beamshot, but the camera on my phone couldn't focus at all. I'll try again tonight in an outdoor setting with a couple other lights for reference.
Let me know what you think! And a HUGE shout out to Bucket for helping me along with this mod