The Maglite Magcharger back from 2012 year model was a mass produced, widely available multi-mode incad. This new version runs on the improved Ni-MH rechargeable stick and has an electronic switch which operates the halogen lamp in Full Power, Power Save, Strobe, SOS or momentary.
Multi-Mode Incan Lights?
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I had never wanted an incan MagCharger before reading that post.
Yikes! I want one now.
Yikes! I want one now.
As You asked:
9N is the original model,
9AN its successor
"B90" battery stick is easy to build, or go with Streamlight Stinger battery stick
(there should be some threads to be found convering themes like Streamlight Stinger battery for 9N, as well as B90 battery selfbuilt ones. At least I myself posted some concerning the building, pictures included)
high/low power of a bulb: makes no good results.
there is an output it is supposed to work with. Any reduction leads to extreme low output (if even more than a glow), nowhere to be useful. More power to the bulb:
therefore double bulbs builds were the way to go.
at the end - and to make me friends in here, in that sub-forum again ...
I can only give You something to think of:
I never liked the 10X, way too bulky. The 8X had only that one level. So double ouput and the size factor brought me to using the 9N for years.
BUT
that immediately changed when the white led became "as good" as lights in that output class (lets name it normal to medium powered flashlights).
the point was: my 1st mod to an 6P --> 18650 powered and an XR-E!!! as led - the 9N was screwed.
Way smaller, same "feeling" with the high beam, multilevel (which works perfectly focused with the reflector)
((remember: the "low" bulb of the 9N has the same power than the typical maglight bulb. But it is nothing better than any mule to navigate around, or write reports, inspect something near, ...)
.. the 18650 form factor has me catched from that time.
And the XR-E is also quite a way form todays Diodes.
(therefore You will also find some posts from me, when someone asked for modding 8X or 9N to li-Ion, and/or led ... Sure, possible, with medium to much effort, but what for: for bringing along air inside a bigger light than "needed")
9N is the original model,
9AN its successor
"B90" battery stick is easy to build, or go with Streamlight Stinger battery stick
(there should be some threads to be found convering themes like Streamlight Stinger battery for 9N, as well as B90 battery selfbuilt ones. At least I myself posted some concerning the building, pictures included)
high/low power of a bulb: makes no good results.
there is an output it is supposed to work with. Any reduction leads to extreme low output (if even more than a glow), nowhere to be useful. More power to the bulb:
therefore double bulbs builds were the way to go.
at the end - and to make me friends in here, in that sub-forum again ...
I can only give You something to think of:
I never liked the 10X, way too bulky. The 8X had only that one level. So double ouput and the size factor brought me to using the 9N for years.
BUT
that immediately changed when the white led became "as good" as lights in that output class (lets name it normal to medium powered flashlights).
the point was: my 1st mod to an 6P --> 18650 powered and an XR-E!!! as led - the 9N was screwed.
Way smaller, same "feeling" with the high beam, multilevel (which works perfectly focused with the reflector)
((remember: the "low" bulb of the 9N has the same power than the typical maglight bulb. But it is nothing better than any mule to navigate around, or write reports, inspect something near, ...)
.. the 18650 form factor has me catched from that time.
And the XR-E is also quite a way form todays Diodes.
(therefore You will also find some posts from me, when someone asked for modding 8X or 9N to li-Ion, and/or led ... Sure, possible, with medium to much effort, but what for: for bringing along air inside a bigger light than "needed")
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broadgage
Enlightened
I have several double bulb flashlights, though these are rather large and might more properly be called handlamps rather than flashlights.
Made by a UK company called "Cluelight"
Bright light is a 6 volt 18 watt or 36 watt vehicle headlight bulb.
Dim is a 6 volt 3 watt or 5 watt bulb. Power is from a 6 volt sealed lead acid battery.
Also a larger model that uses;
12 volt bipin 50 watt halogen A1-220 Lamp and a 12 volt 6 watt halogen. Power from a 12 volt sealed lead acid battery. Run time about 90 minutes on high and about 24 hours on low.
I also have a vintage handlamp that uses a 6 volt twin filament bulb with a 3 watt filament and an 18 watt filament, uses a 6 cell nicad battery (the bulbs are called 6 volt by convention but are actually designed for about 7 volts) The bulbs are cheap and durable and should stand 8.4 volts from a 7 cell battery.
And somewhere I have an early wind up flashlight that uses a twin filament bulb with high and low filaments.
Made by a UK company called "Cluelight"
Bright light is a 6 volt 18 watt or 36 watt vehicle headlight bulb.
Dim is a 6 volt 3 watt or 5 watt bulb. Power is from a 6 volt sealed lead acid battery.
Also a larger model that uses;
12 volt bipin 50 watt halogen A1-220 Lamp and a 12 volt 6 watt halogen. Power from a 12 volt sealed lead acid battery. Run time about 90 minutes on high and about 24 hours on low.
I also have a vintage handlamp that uses a 6 volt twin filament bulb with a 3 watt filament and an 18 watt filament, uses a 6 cell nicad battery (the bulbs are called 6 volt by convention but are actually designed for about 7 volts) The bulbs are cheap and durable and should stand 8.4 volts from a 7 cell battery.
And somewhere I have an early wind up flashlight that uses a twin filament bulb with high and low filaments.
broadgage
Enlightened
Unlikely to work very well.
"dipped beam" on a car headlight tends to be of a similar wattage, or only slightly less, than main beam. The dipped beam is angled slightly downwards and towards the kerb, so as to reduce glare to oncoming drivers. (historical note, some early cars used a single filament bulb, with dipping of the headlights achieved by physicaly tilting the reflector)
Another option is a twin filament bulb intended for combined stop/tail lights on vehicles. These have two filaments of very different wattages. Often 5 watt for the tail light and 21 watts for the brake light.
These bulbs are cheap and long lasting but not very efficient. They need significant over-driving to give a good light. A bit bulky and power hungry for a conventional flashlight, but a possibility for a large handlamp. 12 or 13 nicad cells needed for 14.4 or 15.6 volts.
I have an old one as described above.
broadgage
Enlightened
For reasons already given, any modern type of twin filament headlight bulb wont be very suitable.
However decades ago, there existed twin filament headlight bulbs with two filaments of very different wattages, the low wattage one being a front marker light. No longer manufactured AFAIK but N.O.S. examples sometimes turn up.
This sort of thinghttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363393745806?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144
However decades ago, there existed twin filament headlight bulbs with two filaments of very different wattages, the low wattage one being a front marker light. No longer manufactured AFAIK but N.O.S. examples sometimes turn up.
This sort of thinghttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363393745806?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144
broadgage
Enlightened
Those bulbs had two similar filaments, not for a choice of light output but so as to have a spare filament available when the first one failed. Similar twin filament bulbs existed for miners lamps.
Kirk
Enlightened
Eveready made a 2-D cell Masterlite Spot-Flood from 1953-1957 using that 2-filament PR14 flange-base bulb shown in the above post. As you can see, the glass globe of the bulb looks like any other PR lamp but the base has 2 contacts instead of just one. The flashlight's slide switch has the On-Off switching part overlayed on another moveable slider. It's the slider that chooses the "flood" filament or the "spot" filament--the bulb does not physically move in the reflector. I have 2 of them and I guess for 1953 it was OK brightness-wise, and the spot/flood feature was unique, but nowadays it's pretty dim. You can find the light on ebay fairly regularly, but they almost always have a regular PR bulb in them.
Kirk
Kirk
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a friend got one and i happened to have a few boxes of NOS pr14.
i set him up with aa-d holders to run nimh in it.
a big advancement when it came out but didnt catch on.
it gets smoked by a 5mm coin cell light today.
i set him up with aa-d holders to run nimh in it.
a big advancement when it came out but didnt catch on.
it gets smoked by a 5mm coin cell light today.
Then there were the programmable packages that Jimmy and (forget) other great modder put out. Have a dozen or more left
mrsteel
Newly Enlightened
The Wicked lasers flashtorch has 3 modes.
Juggernaut
Flashlight Enthusiast
Big Beam powerhouse 1766 lights have two filaments in the same bulb, and a switch with 3 positions. A low and high. The low is around 5-6 watts (140 lumens or so) and the high was over 11 watts at 350 lumens or so had great 63,000 lux on high.
The big beam 1000 had a single reflector twin bulb low and high (and you could put in your own bulbs mine had a 35 watt high 3 watt LED low. (but you could use low watt Incans as well)
The big beam 1000 had a single reflector twin bulb low and high (and you could put in your own bulbs mine had a 35 watt high 3 watt LED low. (but you could use low watt Incans as well)
So I finally got a Surefire 9N for a good price. No functioning B90 battery with it of cause so Im gonna use 3 Sub-C NiMHs 3500mAh cells to run it. I wonder if the original charger for the B90 can be used to charge a 3xSub-C NiMH battery stick? If that works I might just solder them together permanently and put schrink warp around them. If not, I will charge them separately.
Did it originally have a 3 cell nickel batter in it? Nimh and nicd don't have a very different charging algorithm. I don't know the specs on this light but usually these old lights had trickle chargers that basically were left in the charger until they were needed and charged up very low currents. If that's the case your new pack should charge just fine
Yes, the original B90 is 3x Sub-C Ni-Ca cells. I dont know yet which exact model of charger comes with my light, but this is a label of one of the charges for the B90 and judging by the info, I would say it charges like you described. So no problem then?
My 9N had a silver ring below the head and charged the battery in the light like a Mag charger so I guess there were different models. Mine was a slow charger though, something like 11 hours. What a great light though, it was amazing in the '90s'.
Yeah it doesn't show any specs on the charger. But as long as they're both nickel-based batteries and the voltage is the same it'll be fine. The old streamlight stingers all had an niCad batteries. The new ones have NIMH batteries. But the new lights are still compatible with the old chargers and vice versa. They say that right on the website in the product description. I know it's not sure fire but a charger is a charger. I lost the charger cradle for my stinger. And I just remove the battery and charge it with a 3S NIMH battery charger. It works great
Charger says:
4- Battery will auto charge for two hours and then switch standby charge.
It could be timered for two hours charge but what if battery was 50%, 70%, or 95% depleted? Will it continue charging for two hours? This may not (seriously) harm NiCad battery but it will shorten NiMH batteries life.
By the way, there is a big difference when you fully recharge the battery for two hours (fast) or 14~16 hours (slow) charge for Stinger. And again, I need to mention that overcharging a NiMH battery at higher rate (2 hours) will seriously harm it.
All I can suggest is to stop charging when you know battery is full and don't forget (SubC) NiCad is 1800mAh while NiMH is 3500mAh. So NiMH needs twice charging time.
4- Battery will auto charge for two hours and then switch standby charge.
It could be timered for two hours charge but what if battery was 50%, 70%, or 95% depleted? Will it continue charging for two hours? This may not (seriously) harm NiCad battery but it will shorten NiMH batteries life.
By the way, there is a big difference when you fully recharge the battery for two hours (fast) or 14~16 hours (slow) charge for Stinger. And again, I need to mention that overcharging a NiMH battery at higher rate (2 hours) will seriously harm it.
All I can suggest is to stop charging when you know battery is full and don't forget (SubC) NiCad is 1800mAh while NiMH is 3500mAh. So NiMH needs twice charging time.
These days, Stinger charger is very low cost and comes in "slow" and "fast" charging rate at your choice.
After some further searching the exact model of charger appears to be a Model C14. There is a listing selling this exact charger on ebay.de, and it appears to be the same one included with my particular 9N. Here are the pictures:
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/VEYAAOSwsldguRL8/s-l1600.jpg
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/nukAAOSw0vtguRLy/s-l1600.jpg
Im doubt this helps, there is no further info on this charger anywhere I can find.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/VEYAAOSwsldguRL8/s-l1600.jpg
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/nukAAOSw0vtguRLy/s-l1600.jpg
Im doubt this helps, there is no further info on this charger anywhere I can find.
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