My current lights with lumen and runtime rating

Swagg

Enlightened
Joined
Mar 25, 2008
Messages
326
So I've compiled a list of my current lights with lumen rating and runtimes to 85% drain. Since I'm building my light system around 26500 & 26650 cells that's what I'm using in the formula. First off, does this look correct for each of these, and secondly I thought this might be of use to others since these are commonly used bulbs. Ive also listed the light bodies these are in. Thoughts?

Battery Runtime Formula:
(Batt mHa/amps x 60)x.85 will give runtime at 85% battery drain

Example: 26650 batts & 1909 bulb:
4000/5400 x 60 X .85 = 38 minutes to 85% drain on batts
2,100-3,200 lumens

Osram 633*
5,000-8,300 lumens
26650 - 18 minutes Mag 3D-currently disassembled*
26500 - 11 minutes

FM 1909
2,100-3,200 lumens
26650 - 38 minutes Mag 3D (soon)
26500 - 22 minutes Leaf 3C body, bored, FM G4 Sunlight-FAVORITE

1185
1,400-1,900 lumens
26650 - 60 minutes Mag 3D with FM deep reflector-AWESOME throw
26500 - 35 minutes Mag 2D-Great Set up

ROP Hi
600-1,000 lumens
26650 - 60 minutes
26500 - 35 minutes old Rayovac lights

ROP Lo
300-400 lumens
26650 - 2:16 hours
26500 - 1:18 minutes old Rayovac lights

Lumens Factory IMR 13volt
1000 lumens
26650 - 54 minutes
26500 - 31 minutes - I use this in LF D36 TH on my BigLeef C, it's a great fun beam to use, bright but not overpowering

Just to be clear, all these set ups I've used except for the 633.
My favorite light and my EDC is my Leaf BigC bored with 3 AW IMR 26500 cells and FM's G4 Sunlight with 1909, its a huge spread of smooth light, great for sweeping a room or backyard. I use a solarforce head with stainless crenelated bezel, the whole setup looks and feels pretty awesome.

My second favorite is my Mag3D with 26650 cells, shorty spring, FM's 2 inch deep reflector, AW soft start with 1185-soon to be switch for 1909. This light has huge throw with great usability.

Feel free to add to this list with numbers and alternate setups as well.
 
Last edited:
AH/A = H, H x 60 = run-time in minutes. That multiplied by 0.85 gives you the run-time to 15% capacity remaining. This only works if proper de-rating is taken into count for loads involved. The result is an estimate.

I don't know anything about the 1909

The 633 will make somewhere around 5-6+K bulb lumens on 4 cells. On 3 cells it's would be half that output, and will probably flash on 5 (just guessing here).

1185 flashes between 11V and 12V depending on the situation and will never make much more than 1500 bulb lumen before it flashes. If you haven't already flashed it on those big cells, then you have major resistance somewhere that is saving it.

ROP high on bi li-ion cells will probably be more like 700-1300 bulb lumen, with a bulb life limitation.

Eric
 
I got all the numbers for load and lumens from Luxs' destructive incan bulb tests on here but I was thinking my math was a little off. I'll rerun it.

Yeah the 633 is run on 4 cells.
The 1185 is run on 3 of both sets on batteries listed, however the 26650 has AWs soft start three stage, and in the 2D I just let the 26500 cells rest for a few days before running.

Thanks for the input, I'll edit with correct math later today
 
Last edited:
I've been using my 3D mag with 3x26650's and FM 1909 in the AW three stage switch, I've got to say it's incredibly beautiful and useful. The low is still quite bright and medium seems pretty comparable to the 1185 on high. Paired the the 2" deep reflector and it's got amazing throw and usability. Just updating since I just got my 1909's in...
 
I can tell you letting IMR26500s rest for a few days after charging will :poof:1185s every time if you're not loosing conductivity somewhere. AWs IMR26500s don't self discharge much in a few days and they produce a lot of current. "More than IMR26650s" I have 2 1909s running IMR26500s and 1 running 26650s so I don't have to worry too much about run time. The handiest one is a 2D mag running 3x26500s and the FM bi-focal reflector. The bi-focal reflector just puts out a lot of usable light with the 1909.
Billy
 
I can tell you letting IMR26500s rest for a few days after charging will :poof:1185s every time if you're not loosing conductivity somewhere. AWs IMR26500s don't self discharge much in a few days and they produce a lot of current. "More than IMR26650s" I have 2 1909s running IMR26500s and 1 running 26650s so I don't have to worry too much about run time. The handiest one is a 2D mag running 3x26500s and the FM bi-focal reflector. The bi-focal reflector just puts out a lot of usable light with the 1909.
Billy

Well I've done it for three rounds so far without poof. I'm letting them rest two days then use it, I do pull them off the charger as soon as they light goes green too.

Yeah my next build will be the 1909 in the 2D mag. T love that form factor for the 1185 so I know the 1909 will be amazing. I've got my ROP in a 2C with the bifocal reflector and that's a nice light.
 
Well I've done it for three rounds so far without poof. I'm letting them rest two days then use it, I do pull them off the charger as soon as they light goes green too.

Yeah my next build will be the 1909 in the 2D mag. T love that form factor for the 1185 so I know the 1909 will be amazing. I've got my ROP in a 2C with the bifocal reflector and that's a nice light.
OK you may not be charging yours as much as I am and that explains why you're not insta flashing your 1185s. I charge my IMR26500s to 4.18-4.19v and after resting a few days they're still at 4.16-4.17v. 12.5v with IMR26500s = :poof:for the 1185.
Billy
 
OK you may not be charging yours as much as I am and that explains why you're not insta flashing your 1185s. I charge my IMR26500s to 4.18-4.19v and after resting a few days they're still at 4.16-4.17v. 12.5v with IMR26500s = :poof:for the 1185.
Billy

Yeah that must be it, I time my charges on my phone so I'm usually there within minutes of it going green. I built that 2D 1185 in a purple mag for my wife and she loves it! Once I gave it to her it almost validated my flashaholism...
 
Well I'm no flashaholic but I do like my FM09s and like to keep things simple. I try to keep several m*g85s too. The m*g85 is a very useful light that I keep with me all the time along with the FM09. You'll have fun with your 2D FM09.
Billy
 
Well I'm no flashaholic but I do like my FM09s and like to keep things simple. I try to keep several m*g85s too. The m*g85 is a very useful light that I keep with me all the time along with the FM09. You'll have fun with your 2D FM09.
Billy

What switch are you running with your 1909, stock or AW or what? I'm pretty sure the 1909 would melt the stock switch so I'm trying to figure out what I'll do for this in the 2D without spending much money...
 
OK you may not be charging yours as much as I am and that explains why you're not insta flashing your 1185s. I charge my IMR26500s to 4.18-4.19v and after resting a few days they're still at 4.16-4.17v. 12.5v with IMR26500s = :poof:for the 1185.
Billy

Yup - I charge my IMR26500s to only ~4.08V (via hobby charger which allows different termination voltage) and let them rest for a day, and they still :poof: the 1185. I think this is only the case if you've done resistance mods (for example, I have a Kiu socket w/ cleaned switch and copper braid in place of the tail spring)

I'm pretty sure the 1909 would melt the stock switch so I'm trying to figure out what I'll do for this in the 2D without spending much money...

I use a Kiu socket ($12) with my M@g09 which works fine - although I haven't run it for > 10min continuous. I would think it's fine though, you can also add a mica shield.
 
Last edited:
What switch are you running with your 1909, stock or AW or what? I'm pretty sure the 1909 would melt the stock switch so I'm trying to figure out what I'll do for this in the 2D without spending much money...
I'm running the mag switch modified with the Kiu kit on 2 FM09s and have run them as long as I want with no problems. The Kiu heat sink will transfer some heat to the body but not too hot to hold. I would think an unmodified mag switch wouldn't hold up to the 1909. My 2D has the Kiu modified switch with 3x26500s in a PVC pipe sleave and a shortened and reshaped tail cap spring. I used a burnishing wheel with my Dremel tool to clean the anodizing from the bottom of the tail cap and modified the spring so it will flatten out in the tail cap with out coil binding. This is a very simple and inexpensive build. $12 Kiu kit, $20 reflector, $6 lens $0 scrap piece of 1" PVC = $38 + $45 batterys = $83
Billy
 
I'm running the mag switch modified with the Kiu kit on 2 FM09s and have run them as long as I want with no problems. The Kiu heat sink will transfer some heat to the body but not too hot to hold. I would think an unmodified mag switch wouldn't hold up to the 1909. My 2D has the Kiu modified switch with 3x26500s in a PVC pipe sleave and a shortened and reshaped tail cap spring. I used a burnishing wheel with my Dremel tool to clean the anodizing from the bottom of the tail cap and modified the spring so it will flatten out in the tail cap with out coil binding. This is a very simple and inexpensive build. $12 Kiu kit, $20 reflector, $6 lens $0 scrap piece of 1" PVC = $38 + $45 batterys = $83
Billy

On my 1185 2D build I used drain cleaner to completely remove in ano on the bottom of the tailcap and then used a spring from a Mag C light which works great.
 
On my 1185 2D build I used drain cleaner to completely remove in ano on the bottom of the tailcap and then used a spring from a Mag C light which works great.
How are you modifing the C spring to stay in the cap? I have one here.
Billy
 
Right now I just place it there, not lots of room for it to slide around, then just screw on the cap. It's not ideal but with that pressure it doesn't move at all. It's a perfect size too, one day I'd like to pick up soldering to solder this stuff in but with a 2 yr old and another on the way (in 15 days) I won't have time for that kind of stuff for awhile. Haven't had any issues with it after 4 cycles. Except the stock bulb tower for the 1185 is deforming from the heat-that's my only issue...
 
Oh I noticed you can buy c springs on eBay for around $6, I was thinking about buying some for the next build since I like the 1909 in that 2D size.
 

Latest posts

Top