My perfect light (does it exist?)

[hassiah]

I'm new here, but I've been lurking for a long time now, and searching for what I'd consider to be my perfect light... thus far, I haven't found it. Did I miss one? Here's my specs:

-runs on a single CR123
-dual mode (low/high)
-at least 80 lumens out the front on high
-low can be whatever... useful light, but LONG life
-forward clicky (momentary plus click-on... no twisty!)
-lock-out capability
-glass lens (not poly)
-type III HA finish
-smooth beam (orange-peel reflector?)
-more spot than flood (good throw)
-roughly uniform diameter the whole way up
-roughly 1 inch diameter

Something from Fenix looked like it might be close, but all of those twist options seem like too much to me. I used to have an older style SF L1, and that was quite close to perfect. The new one is brighter and smaller, which is great, but I really wish I could click it on instead of twisting it (for constant on).

Anyone know of anything that comes closer to the mark?

 

[BigD64]

Surefire L1 Cree is close. 65 Lumens but thats out the front not emitter lumens. And you could get an older L1 and get a Milkyspit Mod. He works wonders with the L1's.

 

[Marduke]

P2D Q5 sounds VERY close. It's a lot simpler to operate than you think. It operate like a 2-mode light if you never bother to actually cycle through the modes. Just loosen or tighten to go from min to max modes, click on and off. Only thing it doesn't have is forward clicky, just reverse.

 

[hassiah]

Yeah, I looked long and hard at the p2d... seems like a great form-factor... exactly what I'm looking for. I'm assuming the throw is good?

The reverse-clicky is the thing I really wish could be different... I love the momentary press, click for full-on thing.

It seems that if NightCore made a 123 light similar to their DI model, it would be nearly perfect, if not perfect, for me...

 

[Marduke]

Yeah, I looked long and hard at the p2d... seems like a great form-factor... exactly what I'm looking for. I'm assuming the throw is good?

The reverse-clicky is the thing I really wish could be different... I love the momentary press, click for full-on thing.

It seems that if NightCore made a 123 light similar to their DI model, it would be nearly perfect, if not perfect, for me...

Well, except for the CR123 requirement, the DI meets ALL of the other requests. Any specific reason for CR123? The DI works well on NiMH, L91's, and Li-Ion 14500 rechargeable

 

[Gunner12]

The P2D is actually pretty easy to use(8% off coupon at Fenix Store is "CPF8", if you are going for the P2D, go for the Q5 version).

But if you just want two modes, the Lumapower LM33 is pretty close to what you are looking for.

If you are looking for throw you would have to look for a light with a bigger and deeper reflector. Bigger and deeper reflector = narrower beam = more throw.

You can also send your L1 to Milkyspit to be modded.

:welcome:

 

[hassiah]

The NiteCore DI is intriguing... I guess I prefer CR123's because they seem to give a bit more runtime than the AAs... First off, let me mention that I am not into rechargables at all.

I should check out the runtimes for NiMH on the DI... Marduke... do you know what they are off hand? Also, does the DI have lock-out capability?

Gunner12... I'd definately go Q5 if I went with the P2D... maybe I'll just have to do what everyone around here is always saying and buy one of each of the ones I'm thinking about :devil:

 

[Valpo Hawkeye]

It's a shame the L1T v2.0 isn't around any longer. With the RB80 emitter it had pretty impressive brightness for a AA light. It also had a forward clicky. I have one and I love it! You see L2T v2.0's way more often on BST, so you can buy that and buy a one-cell L1D body from www.fenix-store.com .

 

[Marduke]

The NiteCore DI is intriguing... I guess I prefer CR123's because they seem to give a bit more runtime than the AAs... First off, let me mention that I am not into rechargables at all.

I should check out the runtimes for NiMH on the DI... Marduke... do you know what they are off hand? Also, does the DI have lock-out capability?

Gunner12... I'd definately go Q5 if I went with the P2D... maybe I'll just have to do what everyone around here is always saying and buy one of each of the ones I'm thinking about :devil:

Runtimes:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=184939

CR123's really don't have any more power than L91's for example. But for me, cheap, safe, and easy NiMH is the way to go. The DI can be locked out, simply by unscrewing the tailcap about a half turn.

 

[CandlePowerForumsUser]

I should check out the runtimes for NiMH on the DI... Marduke... do you know what they are off hand? Also, does the DI have lock-out capability?

it does, the tail end of the light is anodized so that tail cap has to be screwed in all the way for it to make contact. if you loosen the tail cap just a 1/8 of a turn, the light is locked out

 

[FRANKVZ]

Yeah, I looked long and hard at the p2d... seems like a great form-factor... exactly what I'm looking for. I'm assuming the throw is good?

The reverse-clicky is the thing I really wish could be different... I love the momentary press, click for full-on thing.

It seems that if NightCore made a 123 light similar to their DI model, it would be nearly perfect, if not perfect, for me...

I have many lights (both cr123 and AA) and the Nightcore is almost exactly the light you describe but uses a AA. I really like mine and unless you can't find AA batteries or have a free supply of cr123s, I think you'll like the Nightcore.

 

[hassiah]

Wow, the Nitecore seems pretty good on standard NiMH AA's... I'm surprised at 1+ hour runtimes on high. I may have to pull the trigger on one of those. I'll read a few more reviews on here first.

Thanks everyone for the great feedback.

 

[smg]

The Nitecore might be my next light (EDC). However, for what you initially asked for, I think the Novatac 120T would be my choice. I just can't really find out if it had a true forward-clickie. I like the Nitecore better because the AA battery is more standard - I can buy a bunch and use them on other devices around the house (unlike CR123).

 

[Marduke]

Just remember, high power devices are best used with NiMH. A decent set of 4 + charger should run about $20, depending on where you live. LSD (low self discharge) such as Eneloop, Rayovac Hybrid, etc. are recommended, or high capacity such as Duracell 2650's if you charge every couple weeks.

 

[hassiah]

Silly question... probably answered elsewhere, but has anyone tried the energizer lithium AA's on flashlights light the NC DI?

I guess the other reason I like the CR123's is that they are robust batteries... can handle extreme temps, long shelf life, etc. I like to keep spares in my car, plus I like them for camping, hunting, etc. I guess I'm kind of surprised that a "tactical" company like EdgeTAC (or whatever it is) doesn't have a 123 light. 123's are kind of the standard for tactical aren't they?

 

[Gunner12]

Most(If not all) of the high power 1-2 AA lights can use the Lithium AA battery(Not the 14500 ones, those are 3.7v each).

Tactical in the usual sense means 60 or more lumen with a forward clicke and easy to use and smaller size(Durability might also be a factor). Batteries don't really matter.

 

[Marduke]

Silly question... probably answered elsewhere, but has anyone tried the energizer lithium AA's on flashlights light the NC DI?

I guess the other reason I like the CR123's is that they are robust batteries... can handle extreme temps, long shelf life, etc. I like to keep spares in my car, plus I like them for camping, hunting, etc. I guess I'm kind of surprised that a "tactical" company like EdgeTAC (or whatever it is) doesn't have a 123 light. 123's are kind of the standard for tactical aren't they?

It works fine on L91's. They do have a CR123 light called the RaidFire. The DI is touted as a "AA Tactical Light". The CR123 hype is coming to an end however with modern advancements in electronics. Years ago they were the only cell powerful enough in a small package for "tactical" lights, but that's not the case anymore.

What I like about the DI is that it's so versatile. It can use ANY AA sized battery, including alkaline, L91's, NiMH, 14500's.

You can use L91's for long term storage spares, but use NiMH for everyday use. L91's store even longer than CR123's, 15+ years vs. 10, and have the same amount of energy.

 

[hassiah]

Just curious Marduke... why not lithiums all the time? I assume lithiums = L91s...

If they give better performance than NiMH...

 

[Marduke]

Just curious Marduke... why not lithiums all the time? I assume lithiums = L91s...

If they give better performance than NiMH...

Yeah, but the cheapest e2 Lithiums (L91's) are about $1.50 each, where a NiMH costs about $0.001 to charge (VERY conservative estimate, actually much less). That's right, less than 1/10 of one cent.

I am currently running L91's in my DI because I have a local source for them for $0.20 each, but in the long run I'll still use Duracell 2650's, and mostly the Max setting. LSD cells are also a good choice if you don't use your light every day.

Guilt free lumens (rechargables) is a good thing.

 

[hassiah]

Well, it's good to know that if I get something like a DI, I can keep a small supply of L91's in my car and backpack and not worry about them, if they have the same characteristics as the 123's.

Honestly, I love my flashlights, but I don't go through batteries as fast as it seems others do... I generally get a surefire box of 12 123's every year at Christmas and when I was running my [old-style] SF L1 that would last me usually for the year. With a 6PL that I have now, I would say a box of 12 goes for 6 months. That's about 40 to 50 bucks a year... worth it, I'd say, for great and hassle-free performance. The L91's are a bit cheaper than the 123's, it seems, so I might be tempted to forgo the hassle of re-chargeables if I get a AA light, at least in the beginning.


Thanks again for the great information... I truly appreciate it.