My second ground up build.

[chelboed]

I just finished boring a 20mm x 11mm flat bottom hole in a piece of 1" x 2" square stock with my drill press! It's going to be a host for a 20mm XP-G triple-shot.

Tools used:
-Harbor Freight drill press (the cheap one)
-Cross slide vice (the cheap one)
-M3 drill and tap
-M3 machine screw
-calipers
-metric ruler
-4mm 4fl end mill ($6.50 victormachine)
-center punch
-graduated drill bits from 1/8" - 1/2"
-scrap aluminum I-Beam
-scribe
-Jigaloo spray lube
-2x M3 washers
Find dead center on the square stock with a ruler and scribe.
Center punch.
Drill from 1/8" to 1/2" at your desired depth.
Find center on back side...drill and tap for M3 machine screw.
Drill a hole in the top of the I-Beam just big enough for the M3 screw.
Spray top of I-Beam and bottom of stock with lube.
Thread machine screw through 2 washers, I-Beam, and into stock...snugly.
Insert I-Beam into vice...now you have your "Rotary Table". (sort of) :thumbsup:
Center 4mm end mill in the 1/2" hole.
Set depth in VERY SMALL increments to widen hole out to 20mm.
Manually rotate square stock a full rotation.
Return to center and increase depth.
Repeat for approx. 17hrs madman: ) or until you reach your desired depth.

I was told by the neighbor that I could borrow his lathe...but all of his cutting tools and tail stop chuck were stolen. It has a 3-jaw chuck. I accidentally ordered square stock instead of more hex bar, so I figured a 3-jaw chuck wouldn't work. (and I don't have lathe bits)

Now I got a 1" square stock lamp head to make a face cap for and do some finning!
:thumbsup:

I'll finish this one and my little 3/4" hex for the single...and maybe justify sending all of my pieces off to be anodized.

Pic's:

And a little face-cap action:

I may leave the face cap a bit thicker on this one and counter-sink the screws. Do a little beveling too.



I got some more interesting milling done last night...pic's soon.

Electronics will be an 1100lm triple XP-G unit from Lux-rc.com.

This will be a bar mounted light.

 

[Linger]

Re: Hillbilly flat-bottom holes

Before you do an ano run, you might want to think about offering some hosts for sale.
If you can do a run of 20 (10 lights*2per light), and work out a buy of o-rings, screws, and lens, offer them for sale ano or not, you'd still get some $ and maybe pull down your per/unit cost quite a bit.

*What I'm saying is, it looks good. Well done@!

 

[chelboed]

Re: Hillbilly flat-bottom holes

Before you do an ano run, you might want to think about offering some hosts for sale.
If you can do a run of 20 (10 lights*2per light), and work out a buy of o-rings, screws, and lens, offer them for sale ano or not, you'd still get some $ and maybe pull down your per/unit cost quite a bit.

*What I'm saying is, it looks good. Well done@!

Hey thanks!

Updates:

 

[chelboed]

I did some more milling. I'm having a difficult time deciding on milling the sides and / or bottom. I'll post some more pic's tonight if I get home in time.

 

[chelboed]

Well...pretty-much done with this one too. I decided to give it the longitudinal "jeweled look" like a nice rifle bolt, hahaha.

Here's a good "glared" image of the jeweling.

 

[Tidra]

You got to be kidding me,... :twothumbs

A beautiful work,...

How much weight has this housing. I is so small I wonder if it will be enough to cool down 3 LED's and driver @ 1100lum,...

I just wonder what masterpiece you would be capable to make if you own a CNC mill,...

Respect,...

LP
Iztok

 

[Linger]

Well done. I went looking when the title was changed, your newest pics show lots more work.
I do wonder how the unit will do for heat exchange, a triple xpg can pump out quite a bit (size wise, it is obviously near maxed for surface area.) My first inclination is to enhance the thermal pathing by creating a transfer from the mounting 'T' to the cycle frame

 

[chelboed]

Yeah, that sorta concerned me, but according to my "help"...when pushing the XP-G's at 1.1A instead of 1.5 at 96% efficiency...I should need approx 8.5-9 sq. inches of surface area to cool the unit. This squared version has nearly 13.5-14 sq. inches.


We'll see how goes when the electronics ship.

 

[chelboed]

When you consider that so many people are pushing Q5's like this:

It makes me rest a little easier knowing that my housing is milled from a solid chunk, I have plenty of fins, and I have a 5mm thick section of heatsink to transmit the heat to the fins quickly. I know I'm pushing R5's...but I'm not pushing them at 1500mA.

 

[Tidra]

For R5 first max was 1A, then CREE announce that 1.5A is a new max,...

Just to let you know, this is my last upgrade of my bike light from 3xSSC P4 to 4x CREE R4 @ 1A and it gets really hot if you don't drive fast on downhill,...

 

[chelboed]

Hmmm...now I'm worried again...

1. Is there an air cavity in that light?
2. What is the surface area?
3. Is the heatsink integrated into the walls...or is it 2 pieces pressed together with thermal compound?

I'm hopeful that since I'm going to be using a slightly more efficient emitter (and only 3 vs. 4 of them)...@ 1A instead of the max rated...and my lamp head is 1 solid piece instead of a heatsink pressed into a body...and I've got some pretty deep longitudinal fins instead of circumferential...

...maybe it'll be okay? (worried)

I dunno. Only testing will reveal the truth, right?:huh: My electronics have shipped, so they should be here in a couple wks. I'm kinda biting my nails on this one.


When you say yours gets "hot"...have you measured it? 50C can "feel" dadgum hot, but it's a totally acceptable operating temperature.

 

[Tidra]

Hmmm...now I'm worried again...

1. Is there an air cavity in that light?
2. What is the surface area?
3. Is the heatsink integrated into the walls...or is it 2 pieces pressed together with thermal compound?

1.) Yes, but very small.
2.) Aluminium
3.) 2 pieces pressed together with thermal compound,...

I hope your design will be able to dissipate the heat. For mounting on the bar, you could try to transfer some heat to the bar.

 

[chelboed]

Almost done:

 

[pe2er]

It does look very nice in blue

 

[chelboed]

Got a little package from Moscow today...

I'm hoping to send this one packin' so I can order a few more boards and keep building. This is fun!

Had to notch out the Carclo single 20 to clear the electronical-thingy-ma-jigg. (FET maybe?)

 

[chelboed]

Square one:

TrailTech in-line switch and connectors:

Batteryspace.com battery PCB with "fuel gauge":

Quickie back yard beam shots--
f4.0
ISO-100
Daylight
6.00sec

Reference [SSCP7 at 2.8amps]
About 12" to the right of the camera:

L332 Square about 12" to the left of the camera:

SSCP7 right next to the camera to illustrate the beam intensity:

Triple XP-G right next to the camera:

I initially installed the frosted medium optics, but it was so much flood that I couldn't fathom using it on the trail. Reminded me of an over-volted halogen. Beamshots above are with the clear narrow optics. Much more useable beam.