NDI Problem

[red02]

Did a search on this with no results.

I recently got my NDI in the mail and couldn't be happier, the low was low no inductor whine finish was perfect.

But low does not always stay low, sometimes when the bezel is loose it turns on at max out of nowhere. This happens when I'm turning it on normally. The light hasn't been dropped or mishandled. I've cleaned the threads and contacts and relubed but this still happens occasionally. I would welcome any and all advice.

 

[waddup]

maybe your not loosening the bezel enough?

 

[red02]

Thats what I thought at first, but the bezel is in the same position as it needs to be for low. I could turn it on 20-50 times on low without anything happening then BAM! I get hit with max. After turning it on again I get low for the next random amount clicks.

Forgot to mention, it stays on max as long as I keep it on. Its not a preflash or anything.

 

[swxb12]

This is gonna sound crazy, but remove all lube from the tailcap and body's tail threads. I vaguely recall this is what someone recommended in an old NDI thread as I was having issues with my user-set mode not being consistent as well. Problem hasn't come back again. Something about conductivity through the tail being messed up by lube? *shrugs*

Sure doesn't sound pleasant when changing batteries from the rear :green:

 

[red02]

I removed about 80-90% of the lube from the head, body and tail. Then I used the momentary to turn the NDI on and off like a strobe and it still flashed max after about a minute or two.
​

 

[abarth_1200]

Take a look at the switch mechanism in the head, the brass ring that springs up and down can get jammed sometimes, I had enough of my NDI and my Extreme because of their reliability issues, its a shame because they were really good when they worked

 

[red02]

Thats what I figured was wrong, but there is no visible spring that I can replace or lengthen. The other odd thing is that the position of light doesn't matter. It can be horizontal, vertical or whatever its still random. Just out of nowhere low, low, low, MAX, low etc.

Really is a shame. Pretty much prefect light spoiled by QC/Design issues. I read about D10 problems with the piston drive, but figured the NDI would be spared... guess rot at the core spreads outwards.

Probably going back come monday.

 

[abarth_1200]

I also noticed that the Extreme was easier to dissasemble and managed to have a look behind the positive contact point, its clear where the problem lay with that design and its pretty much the same with NDI and D10 etc.

I did manage to get my Extreme working after deoxiting all the contacts (out the box all the contacts were covered in some black susbstance, obviously obstructing electrical contact) As for my NDI, it worked fine for the year I owned it.

 

[red02]

Doesn't seem worth the effort or the money. To disassemble and reassemble only to have it crap the bed in a year.

Its going back; if it has problems when its brand new after a year I'll regret ever buying it and won't be able to return it.

Thanks for the help.

 

[glockboy]

And when you hold the light tight to turn it on, it tighten and loose the head so it ramping up.

maybe your not loosening the bezel enough?

 

[jupello]

Since the ring-switches in D10 and NDI seem to be pretty similar, maybe this could work on NDI too.

 

[red02]

Tried that just now using the method of constantly pressing momentary to mimick strobe. After about 40-50seconds the max flashed again. Thanks for trying. I'm all but done with Nitecore and their comrades.

 

[jupello]

Last night I noticed similar "problem" in my NDI, I was using the momentary on while the light was on lowest setting and I noticed bright flash. After that I started pumping the momentary several times and it did flash again after a while.. I've been testing it, but so far I have not been able to get it stay on bright like that. It seems to happen in less than once in 100 presses.. maybe it's some kind of "feature"/bug the light's programming has?

 

[HoWink]

It pains me to read this about the NDI. Just this morning I was thinking about returning a newly purchased Quark 1xAA because of its annoying pre-flash problem. The light I was going to exchange it for was the NDI, which based on reviews here, seemed bullet-proof.

It looks like the problem you describe can be remedied by disassembling and fine tuning. The Quark problem, on the other hand, is designed in and not user repairable.

After reading/experience these problems I'm left wondering (along with others, I'm sure) whether there is a 1xAA that is small, rugged, 14500 capable, and well built.

HoWink

 

[swxb12]

red02, sorry things didn't work out. I've considered selling my NDI because I've always been weary that perhaps my "fixes" won't stay permanent.

After reading/experience these problems I'm left wondering (along with others, I'm sure) whether there is a 1xAA that is small, rugged, 14500 capable, and well built.

HoWink

Things don't always improve with time, I suppose. I still count on my original model D10 as my most reliable 1xAA (falls under your criteria). Zebralight's SC50 uses a quality switch (same as RA, iirc), but only time and usage will tell with my SC50w. Crossing my fingers.

 

[rioimmagina]

Did a search on this with no results.

I recently got my NDI in the mail and couldn't be happier, the low was low no inductor whine finish was perfect.

But low does not always stay low, sometimes when the bezel is loose it turns on at max out of nowhere. This happens when I'm turning it on normally. The light hasn't been dropped or mishandled. I've cleaned the threads and contacts and relubed but this still happens occasionally. I would welcome any and all advice.

Hi, I experienced the same issue on my NEX, and I can translate the advice given to me by one of the most skilled user of CPFItalia. Since Nitecores seems to be very "sensitive", the key for a reliable working is to keep extremely clean all the contacts and the treads. I Cleaned more and more the inside of the head (the brass zone) with a little brush and an oily antioxidant, than I removed carefully the oily film with alchol. The same for the body treads. I used just a very thin layer of grease as lubricant, avoiding to grease the brass area.
Until now my NEX didn't show the issue, but of course I can't swear on long-term working...:shrug:
Ciao

 

[notsofast]

After reading/experience these problems I'm left wondering (along with others, I'm sure) whether there is a 1xAA that is small, rugged, 14500 capable, and well built.

HoWink

Have a look at the Volere.