Need a recomendation EDC to replace a Fenix PD22

sumotherguy

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Thought I'd lost my PD22 (thankfully it turned up a couple days later while waiting for account approval here), and realized just how dependent on the thing I am. I have ZERO backup plan for if it were to break or go missing so I want to recitify that.


==================Flashlight Recommendation Checklist================

1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?


I'll buy from anywhere


2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest! :)

$100 unless someone's REALLY good at convincing me otherwise


3) Format: & 4) Size:

EDC flashlight


5) Emitter/Light source:

Open to anything


6) Manufacturer:

Open to anything


7) What power source do you want to use?

I'm pretty flexible here, still have several CR123A's kicking around, but sure wouldn't complain about rechargable options.

7a) If you have selected a rechargeable option

open to anything


8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? ____SPECIAL NOTE: Burst/Turbo mode Category

The 2 most frequent uses are to give enough illumination to help read/see something up close, and to flood a general area not more than 10' away for a general scan. So having at least 2 levels is needed, and a 3rd "turbo" wouldn't be frowned upon (I've used it occasionally, usually just cycle through)



9) Flood vs Throw: Flood covers an area, Throw reaches out to a distance.

Sounds like wide flood is most accurate for my EDC

9a) Distance: How far away will you typically need to see with this light (check all that apply)
_X___Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
__X__Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)


10) Runtime:

Take what I can get



11) Durability/Usage:

I want it to still be working after 10 years of EDC use (and maybe a few trips through the washing machine).


12) Switch Size, Type, and location (choose all that apply):

Fond of the tail clicky on the Fenix, but I'd get over a change if this were a hangup.


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.

2 or 3 light levels. The less UI the better

14)Material/Finish/Coating

See Durability, anything that'll take daily use/abuse for a decade.

15) Water resistance
____IPX7 (Waterproof to 1 meter/30min)


16) Storage conditions

Pocket, but I'm active (from snow skiing/winter camping to kayaking/boating).


17) Special Needs/extras:

Solid clip (mounted with fasteners, I'm forever stripping the "spring loaded" clip form this Fenix)

I'm also interested in better CRI ratings. My eyesight is going and I'm finding myself using my light a LOT more to help see things. Only problem is that this Fenix washes out colors... kind of a PITA when my dog had surgery and I was inspecting the scar site in the evenings for infection (just the most recent example in my mind).

During my searching while waiting on my account to be active here I found a few (out of stock or NLA) lights that might fit the bill, but it seems like most people are looking for throwers, or to fit a specific niche. Probably just my ignorance in not being able to know the right things to search on/look for. I'm absolutly a user, not an enthusiast... hadn't even thought about a replacement till mine went MIA for several days (caught on my seatbelt FWIW, finally fell off into the footwell a few drives later).

Thanks!

Brian
 

LEDphile

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Malkoff MDC CR123 in neutral white is a bit over your budget, but checks pretty much all your other boxes except rechargeable batteries. Not currently in stock, but I'd expect it to be back in stock before too long
 

sumotherguy

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Malkoff MDC CR123 in neutral white is a bit over your budget, but checks pretty much all your other boxes except rechargeable batteries. Not currently in stock, but I'd expect it to be back in stock before too long
Thanks, those were some of the most often recommended. I seem to remember Malkoff starting out with Maglight LED inserts? I'm pretty sure I bought a setup for a 4d Maglight (that ended up in a widows hands, just meant to loan it to her but she was so thrilled with the thought that it was a gift that I couldn't correct her).

Seems like they're more of a spot/throw light than a flood from what I'm reading in the reviews. Still, I put in the notification reminder.

Thank you
 

chillinn

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Thanks for posting. I had no idea how much I hate all of the current crop of 18350 lights available.

Jetbeam RRT01 Raptor Nichia 219C Magnetic Control Ring

The control ring is a gimmick that I'm certain becomes a pain.

SC5c Mk II LE AA Flashlight Neutral White High CRI Limited Edition

This Zebralight takes an AA Eneloop, but it's 475Lm, maybe not as bright as the Jetbeam RRT01, but twice as bright as the Fenix PD22. The SC5c is HiCRi and 4000K. It is regulated for constant brightness, the Malkoff is not. It tailstands better than any light I know except maybe the Malkoff bodies, which stand very solid but tip over easier than Zebralight if knocked. Zebralight has a large hotspot, and most say it is a decent mix between flood and throw, but I just call it floody without being a flood light.

Lumintop FW3A Raw Aluminum
18350 body Raw Aluminum

I have 2 of these in Ti, SST20 and Nichia 219c, both 4000K HiCRI. They are very rugged, but it could just be that way in Ti only. The SST20 is passionless plain white, but the 219c is really nice, maybe a slight yellow cast, but yellow like the sun, not urine. I did not know these all disappeared in grey anodized aluminum. Killzone has 219c in purple anodized. I also have a FW1A single emitter SST20 4000K in grey anodized, and I like it, but I haven't seen it take any abuse like my Ti ones. I don't use a clip with the 18350 body, and honestly I don't really like the clip that comes with the 18650 body. Malkoff clips are my favorite, which I could install on everything. I have also read that Lumintop downgraded materials and workmanship in the second generation for no good reason, wth Lumintop? This isn't really a duty light, idky I am suggesting it. It's bright, it's small with the 18350 body, and runtime is decent with a KP UH18350P IMR. It's fun to fidgit with, though the Anduril 2 interface takes some getting used to, but the simple UI setting is easy enough without a learning curve. Smooth ramping, choose any light level, set memory or not, has a moonlight low, normally reverse clicky, but a lockout mode with two forward clicky modes, moonlight and low, also has low voltage cutoff. It's a Cadillac of flashlights, but if it isn't made as well as the first releases it isn't worth it. So it's a gamble.

Go with the Zebralight if you want something rock solid that won't break and is just as bright and brighter than a single CR123A light, and spend the rest of your budget on a custom deep carry Ti clip. Not quite as great as Gene's clips, but it is deep carry, and his are not.

Or the Malkoff, but my complaint there is PWM, and it is out of stock right now. I wish Gene would use a constant current driver so I could buy his dropins. Zebralight doesn't use PWM, claims to be constant current, but isn't really, uses a schema similar to PWM without dropping intensity to zero. Any PWM light and the SC5w Mk I gives me migraine, but the SC5c Mk II does not even after hours of using it as the only light source.

Sorry about suggesting the FW3A and the JetBeam. Don't buy those. I should add that Malkoff makes weapon lights, so they are shockproof. Zebralight are very rugged with potted electronics, and many say they are bombproof, but I suppose most would say Malkoff's lights are even more bombproof. They're both very rugged, but Zebralight does not make weapon lights. Zebralight is side clicky, but most don't miss the tail clicky.
 
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NightTime

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I would go with Zebralight if you want to cover 10+ years. My SC62w has been my EDC light for 7 years and works like new. Even the O-rings are original. You need to reprogram it in G6 mode to make the UI like you want. This way you can have 1 to 6 level as you wish. It could be Hi-Med-Lo or Lo-Med-Hi.

For the size It could be the SC64c LE 4000K High CRI which is one of the smallest/lightest 18650 light I know of. It may be a tiny bit to much throwy, but like mentionned above, the 80° spill does the rest. I also agree with chillinn about the SC5c Mk II LE: it's a very solid choice and a bit more floody.

If you live outside US though you need a "man in the middle" like Stackry or any other service.
 

kerneldrop

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The Jetbeam RRT01 is fantastic.
I've swapped the LED in several now.
I highly recommend them and cannot think of a reason why the variable output from .01 - 600 Lumens isn't the right call.
 

NightTime

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If the Jetbeam RRT01 is your choice, here are a few review about it:
 
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chillinn

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cannot think of a reason why the variable output from .01 - 600 Lumens isn't the right call.
How is the low voltage cutoff? Is the regulation steady? Holds 600 lumens? Do you find that having external threads on the head makes it easier to prevent junk from getting in them? Does the rotary help to keep the head on tight?
 

kerneldrop

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How is the low voltage cutoff? Is the regulation steady? Holds 600 lumens? Do you find that having external threads on the head makes it easier to prevent junk from getting in them? Does the rotary help to keep the head on tight?

It's safe to say that we are completely different types of hard users.
 

sween1911

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Streamlight Protac 1L-1AA is a great EDC that hits most of your points.

UI is straightforward. You can make it simple high-low.

Only thing is no Li-Ion rechargeables. It likes CR123's and it will also run on NiMh AA's. Mine works well on Eneloops.
 

NightTime

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How is the low voltage cutoff? Is the regulation steady? Holds 600 lumens?
The Jetbeam RRT01 has no LVP. Regulation is not good and after one minute the 600 lumens is history.

BTW, I have a SC5w Mk II AA NW (not the High CRI edition) at home. I did a runtime test for max level during holidays. Here is the result using an eneloop AA Pro:

-eneloop-Pro-Cree-XP-L2-Easy-White-4500-K-Lvl-12-C.png

The test was done under a cooling system.
 
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sumotherguy

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ok, so of you folks are going overly technical on me... I know what PWM is from a technical standpoint, but no clue from practical (with lighting)... is it a flickering akin to rolling shutter with video?

Guess I have to decide about using 18650 (and extra inch of length or so, correct?)... I know AA is too small as I have one of those too, lives in my toolbox and is never used.

I'm skeptical about "twisty" lights.... I have dimmers in my house/shop, they are NEVER adjusted (beyond the initial setting or when a bulb is replaced)... simple on/off. I'll think on it, but can't immediately come up with a problem it fixes, but can think of at least one problem it introduces... not 1-handed friendly (and if it is, then not pocket friendly). Thinking through my use scenarios, I need either a Little added light indoors to be able to see/read/differentiate something or a little more to illuminate something 2m/6ft ahead in a general fashion... usually this is lighting the ground for my wife at night so she doesn't trip (while juggling something in my other hand typically).

Apparently I'd been on the Zebralight page before while searching, so I'll look at those a little more.

Seems as though the Nichia 219(b/c) is the most often recommended LED for HiCRI. Are there others I should be watching for as well? Looks like the SST20 is more throw, less flood.

Appreciate the replies! I'm a slow and cautious purchaser, I like to try and buy once (cry once hopefully). And my Fenix is still on the original o-rings too.. I should probably clean and lube them (it? looks like just the one). Hrmmm... wonder if I could replace the LED in this thing....
 

demogo

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Thanks for posting. I had no idea how much I hate all of the current crop of 18350 lights available.

Jetbeam RRT01 Raptor Nichia 219C Magnetic Control Ring

The control ring is a gimmick that I'm certain becomes a pain.

SC5c Mk II LE AA Flashlight Neutral White High CRI Limited Edition

This Zebralight takes an AA Eneloop, but it's 475Lm, maybe not as bright as the Jetbeam RRT01, but twice as bright as the Fenix PD22. The SC5c is HiCRi and 4000K. It is regulated for constant brightness, the Malkoff is not. It tailstands better than any light I know except maybe the Malkoff bodies, which stand very solid but tip over easier than Zebralight if knocked. Zebralight has a large hotspot, and most say it is a decent mix between flood and throw, but I just call it floody without being a flood light.

Lumintop FW3A Raw Aluminum
18350 body Raw Aluminum

I have 2 of these in Ti, SST20 and Nichia 219c, both 4000K HiCRI. They are very rugged, but it could just be that way in Ti only. The SST20 is passionless plain white, but the 219c is really nice, maybe a slight yellow cast, but yellow like the sun, not urine. I did not know these all disappeared in grey anodized aluminum. Killzone has 219c in purple anodized. I also have a FW1A single emitter SST20 4000K in grey anodized, and I like it, but I haven't seen it take any abuse like my Ti ones. I don't use a clip with the 18350 body, and honestly I don't really like the clip that comes with the 18650 body. Malkoff clips are my favorite, which I could install on everything. I have also read that Lumintop downgraded materials and workmanship in the second generation for no good reason, wth Lumintop? This isn't really a duty light, idky I am suggesting it. It's bright, it's small with the 18350 body, and runtime is decent with a KP UH18350P IMR. It's fun to fidgit with, though the Anduril 2 interface takes some getting used to, but the simple UI setting is easy enough without a learning curve. Smooth ramping, choose any light level, set memory or not, has a moonlight low, normally reverse clicky, but a lockout mode with two forward clicky modes, moonlight and low, also has low voltage cutoff. It's a Cadillac of flashlights, but if it isn't made as well as the first releases it isn't worth it. So it's a gamble.

Go with the Zebralight if you want something rock solid that won't break and is just as bright and brighter than a single CR123A light, and spend the rest of your budget on a custom deep carry Ti clip. Not quite as great as Gene's clips, but it is deep carry, and his are not.

Or the Malkoff, but my complaint there is PWM, and it is out of stock right now. I wish Gene would use a constant current driver so I could buy his dropins. Zebralight doesn't use PWM, claims to be constant current, but isn't really, uses a schema similar to PWM without dropping intensity to zero. Any PWM light and the SC5w Mk I gives me migraine, but the SC5c Mk II does not even after hours of using it as the only light source.

Sorry about suggesting the FW3A and the JetBeam. Don't buy those. I should add that Malkoff makes weapon lights, so they are shockproof. Zebralight are very rugged with potted electronics, and many say they are bombproof, but I suppose most would say Malkoff's lights are even more bombproof. They're both very rugged, but Zebralight does not make weapon lights. Zebralight is side clicky, but most don't miss the tail clicky.
SC5c Mk II LE AA Flashlight Neutral White High CRI Limited Edition

Is there a 2 AA version of this light? That light with longer runtime would be a great fit for me.
 

chillinn

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No double AA Zebralights. But Zebralights are famous for stretching an Eneloop capacity. I mean, look at this
Zebralight said:
  • High: H1 475 Lm (3min, then 352lm, total 0.5 hr) or H2 352 Lm (0.9 hr) / 236 Lm (1.5 hrs) / 144 Lm (2.8 hrs)
  • Medium: M1 79 Lm (4.9 hrs) or M2 40Lm (9.6 hrs) / 18 Lm (21 hrs) / 7.4 Lm (48 hrs)
  • Low: L1 2.8 Lm (4.2 days) or L2 1.0 Lm (14 days) / 0.28 Lm (50 days) / 0.08 Lm (4.3 months)
352Lm for nearly an hour? 144Lm for nearly 3 hours? 7.4Lm for 2 full days? 1Lm for 2 weeks straight? What else does this?

If you need more runtime, then get the SC600w Mk IV Plus 18650 XHP50.2 Neutral White, which holds 1311Lm for 2 hours, and 358Lm for 4 hours. You may even get more with a high capacity cell like NCR18650GA 3500mAh or Vapcell M35 INR18650 3500mAh.
 
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NightTime

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From what I've seen based on some other reviews, Zebralight claimed runtimes are based on ambient temperature. At these high levels, those relatively small flashlight are heating up. Then the PID (Zebra's thermal regulation tricks) kicks in, the output gets lower, and then you get more runtime. Personnaly, I rarely use the high levels for very long, so the PID don't really have the time to kick in. That's why I prefer to see "cooled" runtime test like Selbuilt was doing or Zeroair is now doing. This represents my needs. I don't know your needs though.

2x AA flashlight are quite big in a pocket. At this point, I also prefer to go with a 1x18650 flashlight. Actually, the only reason I carry a 1x18650 flashlight is because Zebralight exist. They make them small, powerfull, lightweight and efficient. The SC64w is amazingly small and lightweight (before adding the battery of course). But, if you can go a bit heavier/bigger, then get the SC600w. The extra mass, really makes a difference with the heat management. Depending on the variation you choose you can also have a very powerfull light. My SC600w (using a XHP50.2) is more efficent then my SC64w (using a XHP35):

mendation-edc-to-replace-a-fenix-pd22-post-5522160.png

The 18650 used was NCR18650GA@3500mAh. The AA was an eneloop Pro.
 
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Hooked on Fenix

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Elzetta G-EDC-RCR seems like a decent choice if you want something that lasts. Spend more from that company if you want something with potted electronics (more drop/impact proof).
Edit: most Elzetta lights are over $100. That one is about $40. Unless you're planning to repeatedly drop the light from ladders, down elevator shafts, and off cliffs, it should be durable enough to last. If you're that accident prone, spend over $100 and get one of their lights with fully potted electronics.
 
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fulee9999

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I missed the use-cases for when you want to use your light outside of checking on doggo, but from what I gathered you want something for large area close-up lighting that will outlast humanity as we know it.
Three options came to mind:
- Elzetta Alpha ( Elzetta A123 ), multimode via tailcap, fairly high CRI, basically indestructable, but overbudget ( around $150 new )
- FrazLabs TinyNugget SL, infinitely variable output, which makes it a bit slower to activate, but comes with a high CRI emitter out of the box, you can put it in the washing machine, bender, wood chipper ( maybe not, but you get the idea ), BUT this one has no clip, I'm not sure how hard requirement that is for you. Also in budget, around $100 new
- Malkoff MDC neutral, multimode via tailcap presses, 95 CRI gorgeous emitter, tough as nails, lifetime warranty, with the first purchase coupon it's $99

Or, if you're willing to go one size up ( from 1xCR123/18350 to 2xCR123/18650 ) the Malkoff MD2 + M61N is unbeateable in high CRI EDC, it will outlast humanity as we know it, I use mine whenever I need light in a medical situation ( check on wound, discoloration, etc ), has a clip ( exchangeable ), multimode via head twist, in low mode it's perfect for close up tasks. It is a lego-type light, so further down the road you can change the emitter, head, tailcap, body to suit your needs better. With the first purchase coupon it's $135, which is slightly over budget, but you can find these used as well, and as they have lifetime warranty you can rest assured you won't be left without a light. Also, made in US, by a small family run company ( if that matters to you ).
 
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