Need a switch for 4D maglite, D prefix

lumen aeternum

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I dropped in an LED bulb module.
EDIT - its a Maglite bulb, so this is one is the intermediate stage where they just replaced the halogen bulb with the drop-in LED. 5/64 hex key to loosen the switch.

The rubber switch cover is missing, and the "push down" tit goes down but is hard to get back up. This had battery leakage. Probably need to replace the assembly. Someone point me to the right part on Amazon etc ?

Oh, and what size hex key do I need, so I don't have to try random sizes?
 
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alpg88

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Before you buy one, try taking the switch completely apart and wash it, soak in hydrogen peroxide. however if you see deep rust on contacts, will likely still work, but not be reliable, may sometimes flicker.
 

ABTOMAT

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I have used switches if you want to buy one cheap. Keep in mind these flashlights themselves sell for $20-25 in perfect condition without battery corrosion, before you start throwing money at a damaged one.
 
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louie

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I'd forgotten, so I looked at a light. The traditional old hex is 5/64 or 2mm. IIRC, they later went to a spline, then I don't know what.
 

bykfixer

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I dropped in an LED bulb module. The rubber switch cover is missing, and the "push down" tit goes down but is hard to get back up. This had battery leakage. Probably need to replace the assembly. Someone point me to the right part on Amazon etc ?

Oh, and what size hex key do I need, so I don't have to try random sizes?
 
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lumen aeternum

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You may want to contact company. They may have better option for you.
Do they still replace damaged ones? I have a few that are beyond repair, as well as this one. Last I checked, their website did not agree with my browser & I had no way of contacting them.
 

lumen aeternum

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I'd forgotten, so I looked at a light. The traditional old hex is 5/64 or 2mm. IIRC, they later went to a spline, then I don't know what.
Remind me, after I loosen it, there are a couple other steps, and which end does it come out? IIRC, the back end ?
EDIT found it, how to replace the switch assembly:

I used contact cleaner on the assembly & the switch doesn't stick anymore, but still does not light up. I don't think you can disassemble the switch assembly ?

The switch works intermittantly. I have to wobble the "tit" in the right way as I press down. Sometimes it works as I apply wobbling pressure, sometimes it clicks into the ON position and may or may not remain lit. Sometimes when lit, pressing the tit a bit more will make it go out. There is a dead spot when unscrewing the head from fully tight, within a turn or two.

Meh. Usable in the basement etc as long as I remember I have to fiddle with it. But the 4D is for grabbing when outside the house; it is usefully long & heavy.

Still would like to replace the switch cover though.
 
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lumen aeternum

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Maglite Phone: (909) 947-1006
thanks. Their VIP signup popup is faulty:

Firefox Can't Open This Page
To protect your security, maglite.com will not allow Firefox to display the page if another site has embedded it. To see this page, you need to open it in a new window.

Learn more…

Report errors like this to help Mozilla identify and block malicious sites
>
And the new window shows a blank box.
Safari is just a blank box.
 

bykfixer

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$60 bucks? a new 4D unit is $30. This UK company has a couple unique items but they don't like shipping to the US & its costly too.
EDIT - but the new incan bulb is a bi-pin, right ? & nobody has seen an LED replacement for that style yet ?

Post 3 mentioned used lights are less expensive. eBay is a good source. 2D to 6D all use the same switch.

And yes the switch can be disassembled.

My post answered the original question, plus it includes the special tools needed. I didn't say it was not expensive.

With duck duck go the Maglite site shows up like normal.

The bi-pin bulb is in an adapter that fits in the PR base bulb holder except for the ML25's that have a special design. You just buy a drop in for those if you choose to convert to LED.

I've called them and emailed them and gotten positive results from both. Usually within a day.
 

alpg88

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I don't think you can disassemble the switch assembly ?
sure you can,

Take it apart, clean everything, inspect small parts rust/damage, if you find any post a picture of that part, i got a bunch of loose small parts from switches, i'll send you replacements if I have them free.
 
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letschat7

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Since parts can be as much as new Mags I tend to keep a few spare C and D models on hand just for parts in the future. Typically the 90s- 2003 models. Past that I'm not as interested and I believe my latest incan classic mag, a red 6, D is somehow different as the rubber switch cover won't stay on.
 

lumen aeternum

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sure you can,

Take it apart, clean everything, inspect small parts rust/damage, if you find any post a picture of that part, i got a bunch of loose small parts from switches, i'll send you replacements if I have them free.

Good video. I'll get some of that grease. In the meantime I want to get the white baking soda residue off with some vinegar. Then I can use De-Oxit on the contacts.

The negative contact from the pointy screw seems to be a small area. Wonder if I should use a nail to make the indentation deeper.
 
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lumen aeternum

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What a PIA. Cleaned, added DeOxit, and discovered I was missing the little spring that goes in the black & blue switch assembly. Lucked out & found it on the floor.

The video is not very clear on re-assembly of those little bits, but I finally got the B&B switch together. Note - the V shaped contacts have two different shapes on the open end. One prong is straight, the other has a < shape to it. Note which prong faces inwards before you take it out of the plastic piece, you can't assemble it the wrong way (well, you would bend the contact).

Now, for that long metal strip that goes up in the turret - where exactly does it belong?
1) inside the spring
2) between the spring & the metal cap
3) between the black plastic turret and the brass lamp holder?
4) inside the black plastic sleeve -- mine is not, that may be the issue with the short... I'll change that...
5) I think is should lay in a shallow groove in the black plastic turret, but mine is sprung inwards to the center. I have to hold it down & then slide the brass lamp cylinder over it...

Is the black plastic sleeve within the brass turret supposed to remain fully inserted? It was that way when I took things apart, but now it is sliding out and staying out (probably the spring is interfering with it). Is the nut supposed to hold it in place, inserted?... I just tried that, but after putting on the lamp, it has slide down again. Tried again, and the lamp pushes it down. WTF ?
THE TALL SPRING CAP GOES ON THE BOTTOM & THE SHORT CAP ON THE TOP.
That's why the lamp kept pushing the black sleeve out, the cap length.

NOW IT WORKS, BUT THIS WAS AN INITIAL PROBLEM AS WELL:
Also, shouldn't the lamp holder move up & down, resisted by the spring? Mine is stuck. Did I tighten that setscrew too much? And why does it have a rotating sleeve on it, so you can't use pliers when the hex hole is buggered up?

I got some intermittant flashes of light that indicated the turret was not making good contact. Then I found the metal heating up; I had a short between -- which pieces?
 
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alpg88

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there is absolutely no need for di oxit, the switch relies on small teeth between 2 plastic parts, thick lube will not allow them to engage properly. the long part needs to be between plastic bulb tower and negative contact bulb collar, it needs to rub against it for negative contact,
 

lumen aeternum

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there is absolutely no need for di oxit, the switch relies on small teeth between 2 plastic parts, thick lube will not allow them to engage properly. the long part needs to be between plastic bulb tower and negative contact bulb collar, it needs to rub against it for negative contact,
DeOxit is a molecular thickness coating, it removes oxidation & prevents oxidation from occurring. Use it on your computer memory chips, electronic connections, potentiometers.
 

alpg88

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DeOxit is a molecular thickness coating, it removes oxidation & prevents oxidation from occurring. Use it on your computer memory chips, electronic connections, potentiometers.
That is fine, but still, there is no reason for it to be there. thick paste affects small moving parts, magswitch is actually self cleaning, they work for decades with no paste reliably, they do not get oxidation, I took apart 20+ years old mag switches, there was not a hint of oxidation in them.
 

bykfixer

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What a PIA. Cleaned, added DeOxit, and discovered I was missing the little spring that goes in the black & blue switch assembly. Lucked out & found it on the floor.

The video is not very clear on re-assembly of those little bits, but I finally got the B&B switch together. Note - the V shaped contacts have two different shapes on the open end. One prong is straight, the other has a < shape to it. Note which prong faces inwards before you take it out of the plastic piece, you can't assemble it the wrong way (well, you would bend the contact).

Now, for that long metal strip that goes up in the turret - where exactly does it belong?
1) inside the spring
2) between the spring & the metal cap
3) between the black plastic turret and the brass lamp holder?
4) inside the black plastic sleeve -- mine is not, that may be the issue with the short... I'll change that...
5) I think is should lay in a shallow groove in the black plastic turret, but mine is sprung inwards to the center. I have to hold it down & then slide the brass lamp cylinder over it...

Is the black plastic sleeve within the brass turret supposed to remain fully inserted? It was that way when I took things apart, but now it is sliding out and staying out (probably the spring is interfering with it). Is the nut supposed to hold it in place, inserted?... I just tried that, but after putting on the lamp, it has slide down again. Tried again, and the lamp pushes it down. WTF ?
THE TALL SPRING CAP GOES ON THE BOTTOM & THE SHORT CAP ON THE TOP.
That's why the lamp kept pushing the black sleeve out, the cap length.

NOW IT WORKS, BUT THIS WAS AN INITIAL PROBLEM AS WELL:
Also, shouldn't the lamp holder move up & down, resisted by the spring? Mine is stuck. Did I tighten that setscrew too much? And why does it have a rotating sleeve on it, so you can't use pliers when the hex hole is buggered up?

I got some intermittant flashes of light that indicated the turret was not making good contact. Then I found the metal heating up; I had a short between -- which pieces?
IMG_5459.jpeg

Metal strip goes inside.

IMG_5460.jpeg

Here it is outside of the assembly

IMG_5461.jpeg

The bulb holder assembly order
 
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