Need help with Luxeon III star BIN and TINT

[redlaw55]

I have two Luxeon III Star LED 3 watt flashlights (3D cell). Both lights are equipped with a deep cone lense and produce a bright, intense beam of light. The problem is, both emit an eye-stinging reddish tint. This red tint is a lot like the reddish tint often found in lights using multiple 5mm LEDs.

I need to replace the Lux III LEDs with better ones. But the Luxeon BIN and TINT chart doesn't show color. The code on the present LED is TXPJW (LXHL LW3C).

I believe a green/yellow tint is preferable, as this tint seems to contain more visible light and carries farther. The blue/purplish tint is great for it's pure, bright white light. But I found the voltage had to be increased in order to obtain a beam that could carry the same distance. Still, it's hard to choose between the two.

What Luxeon III Star BIN and TINT designations should I look for ?

What are the tints for each letter combination in the chart ?

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[THE_dAY]

hopefully this can help:

http://img378.imageshack.us/my.php?image=binningluxeonnewyy1.jpg

btw, if you are going to upgrade, why not go with the seoul?

 

[redlaw55]

The colorization in this chart is just what I needed, THANKS !

I recently went thru about 10 one-watt 3D cell flashlights, and found only 2 that had decent output and tint. After so much work, I kept a third with a pure white tint by changing the resistor. These lights are great, but only with a decent LED and proper alignment. My guess is, bad LEDs must go somewhere, a total of 5 of these lights were unacceptable.

From what I've read, codes may have been changed, maybe 3 times ?

I wonder if the code on the LEDs will hold true to the chart ? (..the LEDs that I have so far appear to).

Have been researching the Seoul LED ... possible trouble with installation, probably too bright, could be heavy on battery consumption. But it's a must have, must try, even if I can't use it.

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[Gunner12]

The Seoul LED using the same power as a Luxeon LED should put out about twice the amount of light so battery consumption should be the same. The thing about the positive slug, a thin layer of Arctic Alumni or a thin piece of Mica will isolate the slug and prevent shorts.

May I ask the brand and model of light you are trying to modify.

Welcome to CPF!

 

[redlaw55]

A Super 1 watt Dorcy 3D cell (Lowe's), and a #95297 non-flashing, 3 watt Gordon 3D cell (Harbor Freight), running on NiCad batteries.

I had hoped to buy factory-assembled Seoul stars from PhotonFanatic, but these are sold out. The P4 stars I've been able to find, appear to suffer from poor assembly (DX). But if I can't find anything-else...

Well, maybe I'll wait.

I could buy emitters, but where would I find the PCBs and heatsinks ?

 

[Gunner12]

The light should already have a heat sink. Here's a thread(and a Post) about how to Seoul the Gordon. The Cree(P3,P4,Q2,Q3,Q4,Q5 in order of least efficient to most efficient) might also work but you'll get more spill light, less hot spot and a ring.

 

[redlaw55]

Haven't got the jargon down yet, meant slug.

I didn't see the thread, nice photos... Had to spend many hours reading and searching, but I've taken in the whole picture now. After a little trial & error, I'll have what I need.

Might even do a 3D Maglite while I'm at it, but I suspect the shape of the old-style reflector will reduce the output. Then again, if the LED is bright enough, it might not matter.