Neutral LED's?

passive101

Enlightened
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Aug 15, 2007
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Can someone please tell me if neutral LED's no longer have a blue tint to them or what makes them "neutral".

I'm looking for an EDC light that can be used as a tactical light with or without a firearm. I'm also looking for something on the smaller side. Surefire is out. They are much to expensive for my tastes.

I would like a low and a high if that's possible.

My current EDC light was a Fenix P2D. That light is now lost :mecry:

I would prefer a clicky that works more like the Inova tactical series over the fenix P2D. I'd like to have momentary light when used with my sidearm. I like the size of the P2D. I've never seen a P3D in person so I'm not sure if that would be better or not. I'm gonna go find the specs of that one now. I know the TK series is the true tactical one, but I would only need it for that in an emergency. I'm more concerned about size.
 
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Neutral LED's at not at all blue, they aren't really "neutral" at all, more warm like an incan.
Preorder a tactical Quark AA/123 warm while they are still available, specs here
 
Neutral LED's at not at all blue, they aren't really "neutral" at all, more warm like an incan.
Preorder a tactical Quark AA/123 warm while they are still available, specs here

Would this finally be an LED that I can see all the different colors properly with?! Doing electrical work or working on ribbons of cables is next to impossible sometimes when the colors are close together.
 
You bet. As a former electrician I can say that I REALLY would have loved a warm tinted malkoff, my surefire L4 washed out the pink/red contrast too much when tracing low voltage wires through a ceiling. The actual tint ranges from genuinely "neutral" 3A with no detectable tint to most people, to an incandescent yellow orange 7C . Most of the ones discussed here are the 5A tint, which is actually a slightly pinkish white color. It sits between incandecent and blue, and looks alot like this....

wlfm60beampattern.jpg


M60WLF (5a tint, flood) on the left, M60 original on the right (unknown cool white tint, but more neutral than most other power LED's I've seen). The camera's white balance was set to around 5000K, the WLF is around 4300k according my my eos30D, the M60 around 6000k. In person the appearance will depend on what light your eyes have been adapted to. If you've been working around incan light it will look like a pure untinted white, if you've been working under cool fluorescent lights it will look pink. Here's another good thread with some photographs using varous LED's including a 5A tinted cree. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=227176
 
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4seven's website says " Also note that these specifications are for the cool white R2 bin's. These Quarks use Q3 5A neutral whites which naturally have less output. "

so the specs should be lower than the reg quarks..

i think ur wires will be alot easier to identify with the neutral tints...pre order while u can! its been exteneded to 7/24. if not you can always get a TK20, those are always warm tints..but its 6.5 inches long so it might be hard to get it in to some corners of a cpu?
 
If accurate color rendition is a must, then you'll want to go with a SSC Neutral emitter. :thumbsup:
 
Another neutral tint fan checking in here. The link in my signature has some indoor and outdoor comparisons of some cool tints, 5A tints and 5B tints. My Q3 5A emitter is my favorite, here's just a couple select shots (go to the thread for the rest). Note: White balance is very subjective, these were shot with daytime white balance which I feel shows the colours quite close to what I actually see.

Outdoor - Cool R2 vs Q3 5A:

2-r2.jpg


2-q35a.jpg



Indoor - Cool Q5 vs Q3 5A vs Q4 5B

(Note Q4 is being driven with less current in these pictures)


AKO_HIGH.jpg


TR801.jpg


AKOQ4_highish.jpg
 
All I can say is that my Rebel 0100 NSMCs are great! Neutral white, about 4000K, insanely low vf. S0 would be better, but SM isn't green or anything, it's just yellow. SM is about a Cree 5C, though a bit yellower. Add red and cyan and everything just looks so good.

Neutral white > cool white!
 
Would this finally be an LED that I can see all the different colors properly with?! Doing electrical work or working on ribbons of cables is next to impossible sometimes when the colors are close together.

Yes. My two most used lights are the Nitecore EZ-AAw, and the Liteflux LF2XT, both of which come with neutral white Cree LEDs. I work in a research lab and use these lights all the time for doing exactly what you describe. The biggest reasons is they offer very low output levels -- important when an experiment is running that is sensitive to light. I find it is still possible to resolve colors even at very LOW levels of output compared to other LEDs or even compared to incans (incans are great for high output but terrible if they need to be dimmed)
 
Yes. My two most used lights are the Nitecore EZ-AAw, and the Liteflux LF2XT, both of which come with neutral white Cree LEDs. I work in a research lab and use these lights all the time for doing exactly what you describe. The biggest reasons is they offer very low output levels -- important when an experiment is running that is sensitive to light. I find it is still possible to resolve colors even at very LOW levels of output compared to other LEDs or even compared to incans (incans are great for high output but terrible if they need to be dimmed)


This is awesome news. I can't wait for my new light to get here! :twothumbs

FINALLY! I haven't had to purchase a light in a while. I remember when this was only a dream with LEDs (and simply not available yet).

Now I can have a light with tactical brightness, different settings, and the ability to FINALLY not have to turn off the light, see what color is which, turn the light back on so I can see properly and then follow wires :candle:

The flashlight gods are good
 
It's a toss-up whether this thread belongs in LED Flashlights because of the lights themselves, or the LED section because of discussion about the emitters.

The title and much of the content suggests the topic is principally about the emitters, so I'm moving it now.
 
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