New Led Project

Candle Power Forums

Help Support Candle Power:

PilleLED

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Aug 28, 2011
Messages
69
Hi
i have a new Led project running :)
and i like to use a triple xm-l t6
Bat, is a 2x 18650 4000mah
swich ia a reed
its a profi light head from Variolight

the best woud be a dropin
less work to do

and a driver with 3a , the one i found is very big 30mm to 30mm
very big for a driver

do somebody know a smaller driver for the cm-l t6


best regards
Stefan


http://www.google.de/imgres?imgurl=...05288051123&page=1&ndsp=24&ved=1t:429,r:5,s:0
 
The 18650 4000 mah batteries you speak of aren't true 4000 mah. As of right now, the highest capacity 18650 is 3100 mah. Redilast make good protected 3100 mah batteries. Here are some test's for you to look at http://lygte-info.dk/info/Batteries18650-2011 UK.html

Task led has excellent drivers, but they aren't small.

Also some have reported the triple xml is poorly focused compared to the 5 xre. I cannot confirm that though.
 
As Dashrymn already pointed out, these batteries will be nowhere near 4Ah. But suppose they do, here's a little math for your setup:
3x XML@3A => 3x3Ax3.3V= 29.7W
if you use some crappy driver, of let's say 80% efficiency, those LEDs and driver will use about 35.64W

if your batteries are really 4Ah, you battery pack will provide 2x3.7Vx4Ah=29.6Wh.

Your light will last 29.6Wh/35.64W=0.83 hours or about 50 minutes. For me, that would not be enough, and this would be with 4Ah batteries.
With 3Ah batteries, this would become about 37minutes. I'm guessing this won't be enough for you *** well.

I would reconsider the number of batteries or the current through the LEDs. if you reduce the current, you may be better off using less LEDs.

regarding the light head itself, it seems to have a diameter of 85mm and using halogen lamps with custom reflectors. I don't think there will be ready made drop-ins available for that.
As for the driver, there are cheap small drivers @ 3A available on dealextreme.com but I'm not sure if they can handle 3 XMLs on one driver.
If you go for quality, I'd also suggest the taskled drivers.

Johan
 
Last edited:
hi
many thanks for so much info so far
the 18650 i saw on e bey is 4000mah , ther say so
the driver i was thinking about i sthis one and it6s also a small driver
http://www.lck-led.com/p501/Constan....html?osCsid=c726a1cb409c5f907c7123fed56b10bc


what about 3x 18650 and have 7,2v with lets say douple the A to lets say 2x 3000mah
or 4x18650 2Paralel and 2 Serie 7,2v 6AH
i was thinking , use a 3xcree xm-l t6 , optik 19° , this driver from Top,
and Mashining a Housing to cool it and fits in the Torch

what i dont no ,,,is how ti switch the mode ,with i dont like with a reed

best regards
Stefan
Or you can give me another idea , for the Lighthead
 
Hello
many thanks for so many info
about burntime
the link

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/fandyf...-white-3-led-flashlight-black-2-x-18650-91136

shows 90min on 3000 Lumen ,,,on two 18650 HOW ????


with the bat 4000mah may bay you are right
this is the one i bought
http://www.ebay.de/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150589304322&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:DE:1123

and if you have other ideas for my project many thanks
the driver with one you sayd ,,i like that one



one more thing is ,,,how to upload photos ????
i made a 5X cree DX drop in in a hartenberger mini Compact
to show to you


many thanks Stefan
 
Hello Sefan,

If you follow this link you will find exactly the same cells but with the more realistic capacity, the seller at Ebay is fooling you, sorry for that, the capacity for these cells is only 2600 mAh
 
Last edited:
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change.
Triple XML with 2 18650 is a bad idea anyway you look at it...
 
Hello
many thanks for so many info
about burntime
the link

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/fandyf...-white-3-led-flashlight-black-2-x-18650-91136

shows 90min on 3000 Lumen ,,,on two 18650 HOW ????

probably because it is only run at 1000mA instead of 3000mA... also, this statement doesn't make much sense because there are no batteries included so it is unknown what capacity they will have. 3000 lumen is written there for marketing reasons. they also say 'manufacturer rated' which basically means this is the theoretical maximum, not the actual performance.
 
If you drop the amps of the 3 xml, I would just use a single xml, maybe even with an aspheric. Maybe even use a sst-90 or sst-50 with aspheric (I have no experience though with either).

A single xml pulls 10 watts on high, add driver inefficiencies and that's around 12 watts. A single xml is pretty freaking bright.

What will this be used for?
 
If you drop the amps of the 3 xml, I would just use a single xml, maybe even with an aspheric. Maybe even use a sst-90 or sst-50 with aspheric (I have no experience though with either).

A single xml pulls 10 watts on high, add driver inefficiencies and that's around 12 watts. A single xml is pretty freaking bright.

What will this be used for?
if you can choose between xml or sst-50, go xml (longer burntime, cheaper, cheaper driver, easier with optics,...)
 
Hello
i know this will not belong her ,,,but i have a question ,,,how i can attach a photo
????
sorry this is not the right place to ask ,,but i can not find the answer

best regards
Stefan
 
upload the image to a site like photobucket.com or imageshack.com and use the
 
3-XM-L in series
4- Li-ion 18650 in series
1- 3A buck Shark Buck Driver from the Sandwich Shoppe ( this driver is around 18mm in diameter, single mode)

Get the driver with the trimpot attached so that you can trim down the amperage to 2 amps so that:
Will run considerably cooler
Little difference in light output
Batteries will last longer
Total wattage draw will be around 26 watts or LESS.
All considering you can house the 4 cells in the enclosure.
 
Hi
i realy ve to say i am a bit lost ,,, lot of ideas , but nothing is working in real
i have that hahttp://shop.dev-pein.de/Selbstbau/Lampenkoepfe/Profi-Lampenkopf.htmlousing
togehther with the
handle to load up a photo i am soory to do that is already a big deal from a , to b, we have to talk with the bos to have a change her
becouse to upload a photo over severel servers makes no seens ,,,Right



about my torch i am thing about a realy strong light more than 2500 lumen ,,,3,4,5,6 thaosend lumen we talking about
bu how
if the bat is big , i dont mind to have a canister with , a 4s 4p 18650
gives lot a V and AH
i was thinking about a 7x cree xp-g r5 running on 1500mah what driver ???
or a sst-90 running on 9000mah qoestion is do i have enave please to install
basicle i lioke to use that head
and i like to so much as possible lumen ,,if the bat needs more please i use a canister conectet with a cable


i just dont wana have a light , and later i am disapointet

best regards ,,if you can help me great


IF NOT
i stick with HID
i done now a hid with 50W makes 5000 Lumen ,,lighbeam is from 6 to 18 degeree
a EKPP light head
this stuff is real
lot of a hell of light
5000 lumen on 6° with a led you can dream of ????


regards
stefan
i hope somebody understands and can help me
in case of

[email protected]



ds
Stefan
 
if you want to have 5000 lumen in a 6° angle, it is going to be a real challange to do that with LEDs and probably not worth it. For LEDs it is difficult to compete with HID in the higher range. 10-20W should be ok, but 50W HID... I've never had such a light in my hands but I think you'll have to make compromises to reach that with LEDs.
We can give suggestions but you will need to decide on something that you want for the type of dives you want to do with it. It is all getting a bit confusing...
 
hi
thanks
not that i wana make a confucion
i like to have a realy realy strom led lighthead
more than 2500 lumen ,,,talking about a 3,4,5000 lumen

but how:confused:

on hid
its easy, realy easy
..

but on leds you have reale to know so much
about what bat you use , a driver , and than the proper leds, and much more


i do have a housing and i like to make a hight led make up
but with one
like i say
i am open for evetrything
i just need some ideas, to see what works


3xsst-90
3x cree - tl
7x cree cp-r5

bat, dont metter , if the bat, have to be bigger i make a canister
about the canister i have a qoestion ,

chaerge a 18650 in a clost canister
or about gas,,,the canister have to be open about gasing



i was thinking about a 4x s and 4x p 18,5V and maks 15AH

enoght for a hight inpup



you are diffrent you build a torch for a maglight
i see things maks no seens
3x sst-90 burntime is about 10 min sorry ,,,,,,no torch

i am talking about a real firemachine



best regards
if somebody can help great

and still to upload a photo
is still a mess



Stefan
 
Hello
Videoman is right :)
i will do that way
3x cm-l t6
a driver from blue Shark but i let it run on 3a
optik is only 19° this is a lot ????
is ther nothing else ?????

bat. 4x 18650 serial with 14,8V and 3a
other thing is i have speace for 6x18650 what about 4xS 2xP
more burntime 14,8v and more ampere

this shut work


and i charge with my multi charger

best regards
Stefan
 
If you want a tight beam, get aspheric lenses from Ahorton. They work well with XM-L or anything smaller. MC-E or SST-90 it will not be as tight, but still pretty good. Aspheric lenses don't get as much light out the front as reflectors, but they are much better at tight beams and very little spill. You can defocus them as much as you want, and they actually get more light out when defocussed.

3x XM-L can be run on 3S battery with linear driver, or 3S+ with buck driver. 4x XM-L can be run on 4S battery with linear diver or 4S+ and buck driver.

D
 
Last edited:
hi
i just found a dropn in on DX
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/t6-3-led-lamp-cap-9-22v-100483
and i have to say that thing looks cool
but what i dont understand is the V from 9-22

9Volt ok
3*3 9v *2.2wh 19.8 is about 2000 lumen OK
3*4 12v*2.2 26.4wh about 2500-2600 lumen OK

what is with the rest

if i give that thing
3*7 21v *2.2 46.2wh OHHHHHH 4000lumen no

i think that the xm-l max is 4V each

so is 3*4 12v *2.2a 26.4wh the best

and i think if you use more voltage ,,it just get lost

becouse the led can not take more than 4V

IF IAM RIGHT
correct me please

i hope i am right
and i learnd we you something if not UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUu

best regards friends

Stefan
 
Stefan,

You are correct that the LED cannot take more than 4V. In fact, you will probably destroy them before they reach 4V.

The LED voltage is determined by the current you put through it, and a little bit by the temperature of the LED. Voltage goes down as it gets hot. Also, light output goes down as it gets hot. You can't choose both the current and voltage for the LED, only one or the other. If you select the current, you get the voltage you get. If you select the voltage, you get the current you get. The nature of LEDs is that you should select the current, and accept whatever voltage you get (but it's pretty easy to predict what the approximate voltage will be).

That dropin has a switching regulator in it. The regulator is designed to keep the LED current constant at 2.2A no matter what the battery voltage is.

In a perfect switching regulator the input power is equal to the output power. Since the output current is fixed at 2.2A and the LED voltage is around 3.3V each at a current of 2.2A, the output power is pretty much fixed at about 2.2A * 3.3V * 3 LEDs = 22W.

The power drawn from the batteries should be 22W, no matter what the voltage, so long as it is within the range of the regulator. So at 9V, you would expect the input current to be 22/9 = 2.44A. At 15V, you'd expect 22/15 = 1.47A, etc.

That's a lot to understand, and if you don't get it, please say so and I will try to explain it better. Once you understand this, you can understand what happens when the battery voltage changes from 9V to 22V, and why the LEDs don't fail at 22V. You'll also be able to calculate what different battery configurations will do.

Also, you'll need a good understanding of this before what I'm about to say will help you to make good choices.

We live in the real world, and nothing is perfect, including switching regulators. Good ones have efficiency of 90-95%. That means that 90-95% of the input power gets to the output. Or, the input power will be a little higher than the output power.

Now you go to DX, and things typically get worse. First, I would expect the output current to be less than they claim, probably 1.5A if they claim 2.2, but could be more or less. Also, I would expect the output current to change with input voltage (thus the output power will change too). It shouldn't, but for the price you can't expect perfection. I'd also expect the efficiency to be less than 90%, perhaps as low as 70%, and it could change a lot with input voltage.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top