New life for a Tikka+

[Curious_character]

I just got some Nichia NSPW 500GS-K1 Wc0 5 mm LEDs from Brlux at the Market Place. The first mod was my venerable Tikka+, where I replaced the existing LEDs with the new ones. Result: increase in lux at one meter by a factor of 4, and in total light output by a factor of 3.4! (It's a bit spottier so I might end up putting some Scotch tape over the window for more diffusion.) Each level is now as bright as the next higher one was, so I'll get a good three times the run time at the same light level. Brlux sold all the LEDs he had, but anybody with a Tikka+ or headlamp of similar vintage should watch for these LEDs.

c_c

 

[hopkins]

Good report Curious! I'll be on the lookout for these leds for my old tikka.
thanks

 

[candlelight001]

how hard is the mod?

 

[cave dave]

how hard is the mod?

About as easy as it comes. The electronics and battery holder is press/snap fit in and can be worked out by sliding a thin screwdriver in the gap and working it loose.

 

[Curious_character]

Brlux has more of these for sale at the Market Place, here.

c_c

 

[Mayqswet]

Thanks for the info. I tried a mod on my Tikka Plus using some supposed 55,000 mcd 5mm lights I bought on Ebay. The difference was negligible.

 

[Tuna]

BEWARE--This mod is more difficult then it appears. Yes, the battery holder pops out with a screwdriver, but changing out the LEDs is much more complicated. The LEDs are connected very well to the circuit board. Removing the LEDs requires skills that I don't have. I'm now out about $50 for a headlamp that I don't want and LEDs that I can't use.

 

[Curious_character]

BEWARE--This mod is more difficult then it appears. Yes, the battery holder pops out with a screwdriver, but changing out the LEDs is much more complicated. The LEDs are connected very well to the circuit board. Removing the LEDs requires skills that I don't have. I'm now out about $50 for a headlamp that I don't want and LEDs that I can't use.

I'm sorry to hear that. Although I didn't comment earlier, I would have agreed with cave dave that's it's easy. I've done quite a few mods, and found very few which I feel are simpler than this one -- but then I do have decades of experience with soldering and electronics work.

What you need for this mod are some needle nose pliers, a small soldering iron, and some solder wick (available at Radio Shack, Fry's, or any store selling soldering equipment). For each LED, remove as much solder from the pads as possible with the solder wick. Then, holding the LED with your fingers, alternately heat each pad while gently rocking the LED and working its leads out. After the LED is out, clean the holes using the solder wick. Use the LED you removed as a model for bending and trimming the leads of the replacement LED -- two bends are required. I used needle nose pliers to make the bends. Be sure not to put any significant amount of stress on the leads where they enter the plastic LED package. Check the spacing of the LED leads by temporarily inserting them from the other side of the board. It's very important when working with 5 mm LEDs that you don't have any stress on the leads when you solder them -- the plastic softens and an internal rupture can occur. Once you've made sure the spacing is correct, insert the leads from the right side of the board and solder.

Hope this helps.

c_c

 

[Tuna]

Thank you very much Curious_character for the detailed explanation of how to do this mod. :thumbsup: I'll give it a shot.
Now, time for me to buy a small soldering iron...will keep you posted on how I do.

Thanks! :wave:

 

[Curious_character]

Thank you very much Curious_character for the detailed explanation of how to do this mod. :thumbsup: I'll give it a shot.
Now, time for me to buy a small soldering iron...will keep you posted on how I do.

Thanks! :wave:

One additional tip/caution: When using the solder wick, don't rub the soldering iron (with the wick under it) back and forth in a scrubbing motion. That can peel off the pad and, if that happens, the repair job gets more difficult. Tin the iron by putting a little solder on it and wiping it on a damp sponge. Put the wick down on the pad, and press the iron down on it. If the wick doesn't suck up anything, try putting a little solder on the iron -- or on the pad -- to get the process started. I recommend practicing a little on a junk circuit board before doing the real thing.

c_c

 

[snoboy]

You'll also want to make sure of the polarity of the LEDs before you solder them in. Not sure if the Petzl circuit board is annotated or not?

 

[Curious_character]

You'll also want to make sure of the polarity of the LEDs before you solder them in. Not sure if the Petzl circuit board is annotated or not?

It's not, so thanks for bringing that up. So just make sure that when you bend the leads of the new LED, it's oriented the same way as the original. You'll see when you look at either LED from the side that one lead doesn't seem to connect to anything (it actually has a thin bond wire connection), and the other has a cup attached to its end. The LED chip is actually in the cup, and that lead is the cathode (negative voltage terminal), although all you need to know for this mod is that the old and new are oriented the same relative to the lead bends.

c_c

 

[asimba2]

For anyone that is thinking of doing this mod, here are some pics of a disassembled Tikka Plus that I found online (French site):
http://tabla.mtb.si/gallery/album2202

Curious_character--how old is your Tikka Plus? I know Petzl started using brighter LEDs in about late 2006, just curious if you experienced such a huge change because you had the older model. I thought the later ones used 25,000-30,000 mcd LEDs. A top-bin Nichia GS does 44,000 mcd at 20mA. Who knows what Petzl drives them at...

 

[Curious_character]

Thanks for the info -- I wasn't aware that Petzl had changed the LEDs somewhere along the line. So it might not be worthwhile to mod a newer light. Mine are older than 2006, and it was definitely worthwhile for them. On the other hand, I've put a Seoul LED into a couple of PT EOS headlamps, and the first test trip with them indicates they'll become the new favorites.

c_c