Hey guys,
Just wanted to share again.
I was messin' around in the shop today and found a piece of scrap aluminum that was just long enough for a 1X123 body. This is what I came up with...
The head is, of course, a modified E head. I removed most of the scallop in the bezel ring, but left some of it. I really like the idea of being able to see if I accidentally left the light on. The Light Engine is a TXOK Direct Drive unit and the battery is an R123 that I got from JSB. The reflector is a turned down McR20.
The tail cap is a slim McE2S that I turned the top off of and turned into a flat top. I understand that these are now available. The thing about this flat top is that I used a bit of a thinner membrane material and this allowed me to leave a bit more meat on the top of the module. What this results in is a captured module in the flat top switch that came be locked out. I haven't given it a work out yet and don't know how water resistant it is yet. Although I've never had any problems with the flat top with the thicker membrane, I just wanted to try something a little different.
The body is what became of that scrap piece of aluminum. I left the center section smooth but left two raised sections and knurled them. The forward stop gives you something to hold on to when turning the switch. I was always loosening the head by accident, so I went with the knurling on the body rather than on the head. The rear raised section, with knurling, allows a cigar type grip. I also added a lanyard attachment hole in the ring. I have a tiny McGizmo clip through it.
The light measures 3.2" from the tip of the head to the end of the switch, in the off position. All in all, I think it came out OK.
Here are a few more pics...
And a beam shot taken 20' from a white wall and couch...
**EDIT**
It kind of bothered me that the knurling on the switch didn't match the knurling on the body, so I made another switch for it.
This one is also a flat top with a captured module. I used another thin membrane and I left the top a bit thick, as you can see by the bevel. I did this to allow the light to stand on end.
Here's some pics...
Now I can say that the light is finished. I like this and I think the new switch "fits" the look of the light better. Now what do I do with it?
Thanks for looking,
Just wanted to share again.
I was messin' around in the shop today and found a piece of scrap aluminum that was just long enough for a 1X123 body. This is what I came up with...
The head is, of course, a modified E head. I removed most of the scallop in the bezel ring, but left some of it. I really like the idea of being able to see if I accidentally left the light on. The Light Engine is a TXOK Direct Drive unit and the battery is an R123 that I got from JSB. The reflector is a turned down McR20.
The tail cap is a slim McE2S that I turned the top off of and turned into a flat top. I understand that these are now available. The thing about this flat top is that I used a bit of a thinner membrane material and this allowed me to leave a bit more meat on the top of the module. What this results in is a captured module in the flat top switch that came be locked out. I haven't given it a work out yet and don't know how water resistant it is yet. Although I've never had any problems with the flat top with the thicker membrane, I just wanted to try something a little different.
The body is what became of that scrap piece of aluminum. I left the center section smooth but left two raised sections and knurled them. The forward stop gives you something to hold on to when turning the switch. I was always loosening the head by accident, so I went with the knurling on the body rather than on the head. The rear raised section, with knurling, allows a cigar type grip. I also added a lanyard attachment hole in the ring. I have a tiny McGizmo clip through it.
The light measures 3.2" from the tip of the head to the end of the switch, in the off position. All in all, I think it came out OK.
Here are a few more pics...
And a beam shot taken 20' from a white wall and couch...
**EDIT**
It kind of bothered me that the knurling on the switch didn't match the knurling on the body, so I made another switch for it.
This one is also a flat top with a captured module. I used another thin membrane and I left the top a bit thick, as you can see by the bevel. I did this to allow the light to stand on end.
Here's some pics...
Now I can say that the light is finished. I like this and I think the new switch "fits" the look of the light better. Now what do I do with it?
Thanks for looking,
