New to me compressor: Quincy QT-5 ...

wquiles

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Texas, USA, Earth
I already have a nice, small, and quiet Eaton compressor , but I was in the right place and the right time to acquire this Quincy QT-5 compressor for my "shop": It is a 5HP (3 PH, 1750 RPM motor currently wired for 480VAC), two stage, 175PSI, 60 gal compressor, with what it seems are all of the factory installed options including the "radiator", oil-level shutoff switch, water accumulator/discharge unit, and 120VAC automatic drain switch mounted at the bottom of the tank. The unit has been always indoors, and has been in service for 10 years, but used very, very little, and in fact it has not been used at all for the last 5-6 years. When I tried it running it, it ran little a kitten, nice and smooth. True, not as quiet as my super low noise Eaton, but not loud at all.

EDIT: I found that based on the extra configuration options that my compressor is in fact configured as the "MAX" option:
- Electric ODP single or three phase motor with motor overload protection
- Low oil shutdown (which is the sensor that broke off!)
- Air-cooled aftercooler
- Pneumatic tank drain - I have it on the side, and I can tell from the stains in the floor that the output was not connected - it simply sprayed down into the floor, right by the base of the compressor - how does this work?
- Vibration isolator pads shipped loose with all horizontal units
- Industry leading 5-Year True Blue Warranty


It was quite a bit of work to get it out of the closet in the second story where it was located, but we finally got it out of the building using two sets of wheels :D
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Since it is about 600-650 pounds, mostly on top, we used every single rope/clamp we had:
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I also was able to get about 60+ feet of copper pipe along with 6-7 regulated outputs, each with a ball valve, and a cabinet for storing dangerous chemicals/fluids:
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One amazing thing - this compressor has been there for 10 years - they never removed the factory cover in the radiator !!!
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And here it is in my house/shop, where it will stay from now on:
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I have to work out some details with Barry to power it, since I have to install a VFD to get it running again, so hopefully in a couple of weeks it will be ready. I will post more pictures as I get more work done on it :D

Will
 
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Will,
For an Air compressor I would not waste the effort on a VFD, Just find a Single phase motor for it.

Jason
 
And here it is in my house/shop, where it will stay from now on

Will, being as top heavy as you said, will you be anchoring it to the ground there or build a stand? I'd be very worried if you were in Cali. Going to sell there other compressor now (not that I 'm interested, just curious)? Looks like you're going that have a full blown shop in no time. :thumbsup:
 
That's an amazing compressor, hope you payed a lot for it, I'd be upset if you hadn't. :p Those things are expensive.

Anyways, looks sweet as all hell. A VFD would be the cheapest way to get it running on single phase probably, RPC and others are expensive.

Just need a simple VFD with softstart and a channel that allows on off control to go to the pressure switch.
 
Will, being as top heavy as you said, will you be anchoring it to the ground there or build a stand? I'd be very worried if you were in Cali.
Yes, it will be bolted down and I am planning on at least one side bracing arm.


Going to sell there other compressor now (not that I 'm interested, just curious)? Looks like you're going that have a full blown shop in no time. :thumbsup:
I initially though of selling it and shipping it, but then I remembered how the first compressor I got was damaged in shipping (even though it was in a crate - which I no longer have), so trying to sell it with shipping is just out of the question. Right now I am selling it to my next door neighbor that has helped me with not only this compressor move, but also with the mill, and prior to that getting the lathe installed, etc..



That's an amazing compressor, hope you payed a lot for it, I'd be upset if you hadn't. :p Those things are expensive.
I am not going to say how much, but you should be upset with me now, and lets leave it at that.



Anyways, looks sweet as all hell. A VFD would be the cheapest way to get it running on single phase probably, RPC and others are expensive.

Just need a simple VFD with softstart and a channel that allows on off control to go to the pressure switch.

Will,
For an Air compressor I would not waste the effort on a VFD, Just find a Single phase motor for it.

I am planning on the VFD for two reasons:
1) Due to the soft-start feature - I will need it since the compressor will be taking power from the same 30A service while either the lathe or the mill is running, so with two loads connected I need them both with the soft start to prevent a spike from tripping the breaker.

2) The other reason for the VFD is that I will not run the compressor at full power - I don't need 16.3 ACFM at 175 PSI in my shop at the moment (this is running at 942 RPM at the compressor, while the motor is running at 1750 RPM). Per Quincy's documentation, I can run this compressor with either a 3HP or a 5HP motor, and I can run this compressor as low as 400 RPM's (giving 7.0 ACFM at 175PSI) up to 1060 RPM's (giving 18.30 ACFM at 175PSI), so a VFD is absolutely perfect to dial down the power on this compressor, since today my small Eaton compressor gives me about 6-7 CFM at 100PSI or so.

Since I only have single phase 220, so to give this motor a true 5HP capability I would need to buy the 10HP VFD, which then when derated for single phase input would give the proper current to run at 5HP. However, I don't want to run the compressor at 5HP, and in fact I want to run it at the lower end of the compressor's RPM range (500-600 RPM), so running it at around 3HP should be about perfect. I just need to discuss it some more with Barry before I buy the VFD.

Will
 
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like altlas said dont waaste money on an vfd ,just prpoperly size an ac motor {baldor} and the oil trpa is doing what it supposed to do....marty




[baldor]
 
I would not waste the effort on a VFD, Just find a Single phase motor for it.

5hp 1ph motors are available ... but cheap they aren't. $400 is the low end for a Baldor on eBay.

A 5hp motor draws about 25 FLA @ 240v, which means about 125-150A starting surge. With a smaller service panel (like Will has) the breaker will trip before the motor ever reaches speed.

I can run this compressor with either a 3HP or a 5HP motor
3hp 3ph motors are cheap on eBay, and 3hp VFDs that take 1ph input are inexpensive as well - less than the cost of a 5hp 1ph motor. Even with "only" 3hp, the pump should make about 12 scfm. If more air is needed in the future, a 5hp motor can replace the 3hp.

The color of that Quincy is all wrong for your shop - really clashes with your lathe & mill. Bolt it to a pallet & I'll have a truck get it out of your way :nana:
 
Won't running it a little slower make it a little quieter also?

That was the object of the Eaton IIRC.

I like the idea it will custom tailor it to your application, you can tweak it to your air demand.
 
Won't running it a little slower make it a little quieter also?

That was the object of the Eaton IIRC.

I like the idea it will custom tailor it to your application, you can tweak it to your air demand.


Yea you run it slower you keep the heat out and the noise.

Some compressors at low rpms develop an annoying noise from the reed valves, but that is at seriously crawling slow speeds.
 
he can keep the stock motor and just only put in 3HP worth of current. If I'm right.
You are right :D

Whenever a VFD is configured, the motor nameplate information is used to make sure the drive correctly monitors the motor for amp load. A VFD is a NEMA approved motor protection device (overload) ... so the drive is set up using nameplate information from a 3hp motor. If the compressor pump requires more than 3hp, the drive will interpret that as an overload condition & fault out.

If Will needs more air capacity sometime in the future, a 5hp drive that accepts 1ph input (or a 10hp drive that accepts 3ph input) will allow the motor to run at full power for increased air output.
 
You are right :D

Whenever a VFD is configured, the motor nameplate information is used to make sure the drive correctly monitors the motor for amp load. A VFD is a NEMA approved motor protection device (overload) ... so the drive is set up using nameplate information from a 3hp motor. If the compressor pump requires more than 3hp, the drive will interpret that as an overload condition & fault out.

If Will needs more air capacity sometime in the future, a 5hp drive that accepts 1ph input (or a 10hp drive that accepts 3ph input) will allow the motor to run at full power for increased air output.

Thanks. That was what I wanted to confirm: that I could just simply buy a 1ph input, 3HP 3ph output VFD (same exact unit I used in my mill VFD conversion) and drive the 5HP 3ph motor with "only" 3HP by telling the VFD that it has a 3HP motor attached to it. It will run slower and be quieter as well :D

Since that part of my "shop" sees a lot of chips/dust I will buy the NEMA4 enclosure just to be safe. I will be ordering this VFD later this morning, but I will still need some help with the wiring, as this compressor is wired with a special relay that takes as inputs the low oil pressure sensor and of course the switch from the regulator. I have to figure out where exactly I put the VFD: after wiring the 5HP motor down from 480V to 240V, do I just simply connect the VFD to the same place 3PH input power used to come into the switch panel that has the relay?

It certainly has to be a little bit more complicated than that, since the way I understood the VFD, it has to be connected directly to the motor. I think I saw some wiring information inside the box. I will certainly take a look. Probably I have to feed the single phase 220V into the box just for the sensors/relay to work, and then wire the VFD directly out to the motor.

Will
 
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Check with the manufacture, but it would be my belief that most VFD units are able to have switches wired into the unit to create user modified fault codes. Say the low oil switch goes off the VFD will shut off the motor because it senses the switch tripping.

That's just a theory and what I would want out of a VFD for this application, I mean what else would all those fun screw clamp terminals be used for. :p

One thing you really don't want to do is disconnect the motor load from a powered VFD, I'm fairly sure that's bad for the drive, though I imagine most are protected, just not something I would really want to happen.
 
do I just simply connect the VFD to the same place 3PH input power used to come into the switch panel that has the relay?

No :eek:

That machine has a magnetic starter - motor overload that is used to start the motor & protect the motor. Since the VFD performs both of those functions you'll want to scrap the mag starter ... meaning to physically remove all the wiring that the compressor comes with. Connect the drive directly to the motor, as you would in any VFD installation. Install a disconnect to power up or power down the drive. Figure out if the low oil pressure sensor is NC or NO when there is normal oil pressure & connect the sensor wires to the appropriate logic terminals on the drive. Determine if the pressure switch is NC or NO at high pressure cut off & wire it into the logic terminal to provide a STOP command. Same thing with the low pressure cut in, wired to provide a START command.

Much easier than your mill installation :nana:
 
Gotcha - thanks Barry. Hey, at least I asked first, right? :grin2:


By the way, I heard back from Quincy and given my serial number they were able to tell me more about this compressor:

******************************************************************************************

These are the notes from the serial number and actual order that was placed in 1-13-2000, just over 10 years ago:

- MODEL QTV-5-60 SIMPLEX TANK MOUNTED UNIT.

- 5 H.P., 460 VOLT, THREE PHASE, 60 HZ. ODP MOTOR.

- 60 GALLON VERTICAL AIR RECEIVER.

- AIR COOLED AFTERCOOLER MOUNTED AND PIPED.

- MOISTURE SEPARATOR TRAP MOUNTED AND PIPED.

- LVD DUAL CONTROL. ********* 175 PSI.

- ELECTRIC TANK DRAIN MOUNTED AND PIPED.

- LOW OIL LEVEL SHUTDOWN SWITCH, MOUNTED, PIPED, AND WIRED.

- NEMA 1 STARTER MOUNTED AND WIRED. **** LOW OIL LEVEL. ****

- FILTER SILENCER AND INTAKE MUFFLER ******************

******************************************************************************************


I asked about the oil/filter I should use and they said:
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Proper oil, would be a SAE rated and proper weight oil. This is based on your usage cycle and environment. 10wt for cold, normal 20wt for most conditions, and 30wt for extreme warm to hot conditions. The replacement air element is recommended to be changed once a year or as needed if in a dirty area. Part 110377E100.

I will send you new updates owner's manual and parts manual on separate emails.
*************************************************************


I did get in fact two emails with the separate attachments, and the manual does have all of the electrical diagrams in very good detail. WOW - this is great service for something 10 years old and out of warranty by now :twothumbs

Will
 

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